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Discussion Starter #1
1995 Sable 3.0
About 115,000KM (yes, under driven - avg s/b 16-20,000 so I would say it should be around 160,000KM-200,000 by now)
North East (Toronto - 60-70F)

Two issues (related or not?)

First - FAST IDLE
Back in Q3 2003, the car developed what appeared to be a "FAST IDLE WHEN COLD". Simply put - when I start the car and put into GEAR, the car has a tendency to LUNGE forward and move very fast without applying the gas. I try to slow the engine down first (hit gas) but to no avail. Only happens when cold. E.g. AM (unheated garage) or PM (unheated underground parking). In the PM, I start the car, I have to constantly hold the brake because the car is moving too fast. Anyways, after the car gets warm it never occurs again unless driven for hours.

I called into a Car Repair TV program and they suggested the THROTTLE BODY NEEDS CLEANING.

Second issue:
About 3 weeks ago the car started to run very rough when at an intersection (idle). Started drifting below 750 - to about 500. Twice now the ENGINE LIGHT came on. Both times it was a little damp outside when the ENGINE LIGHT came on.
Can happen when cold or hot so car temperature itself does not matter.

So about a week ago I took it to the Ford Dealer. The car was in need of service they suggested an overall cleaning servicing - so they did a THROTTLE BODY; MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR SERVICE; INJECTOR SERVICE; EEC TEST; REPLACED FUEL FILTER. They stated the computer reported a LEAN CODE. (they did not disclose the code to me)

The above service I felt was reasonable based on my history with the car. They stated the maintenance was "required" but may not resolve the issues.

As at today:
- The rough idle appears to be present still - no code yet, but I see (RPM) and feel the roughness
- The fast idle when cold - jury is still out - it appears it still is an issue.

First, does anyone have any ideas on this?
Second, do both problems sound related or unrelated?

What gave me an uneasy feeling is that the FAST IDLE WHEN COLD didn't seem to be known by the dealer - no "it is X".

I could continue with the same dealer (hopefully they can continue where they left off) or go elsewhere to a small garage or something. Part of me is uneasy - a 10year old car.. "experts" that can't pinpoint the problem.. don't want to be pouring good money into something that already has had about $300US (tax in) to review so far.

Part of me is saying check the Chilton book and see if I can diagnose myself (checking the O2 sensors).

Hard call..

any help would be most appreciated.
belly
 

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I too am experiencing a similar problem. Did you get your problems figured out? If so what was the fix.

Thanks

QUOTE=bellyman]1995 Sable 3.0
About 115,000KM (yes, under driven - avg s/b 16-20,000 so I would say it should be around 160,000KM-200,000 by now)
North East (Toronto - 60-70F)

Two issues (related or not?)

First - FAST IDLE
Back in Q3 2003, the car developed what appeared to be a "FAST IDLE WHEN COLD". Simply put - when I start the car and put into GEAR, the car has a tendency to LUNGE forward and move very fast without applying the gas. I try to slow the engine down first (hit gas) but to no avail. Only happens when cold. E.g. AM (unheated garage) or PM (unheated underground parking). In the PM, I start the car, I have to constantly hold the brake because the car is moving too fast. Anyways, after the car gets warm it never occurs again unless driven for hours.

I called into a Car Repair TV program and they suggested the THROTTLE BODY NEEDS CLEANING.

Second issue:
About 3 weeks ago the car started to run very rough when at an intersection (idle). Started drifting below 750 - to about 500. Twice now the ENGINE LIGHT came on. Both times it was a little damp outside when the ENGINE LIGHT came on.
Can happen when cold or hot so car temperature itself does not matter.

So about a week ago I took it to the Ford Dealer. The car was in need of service they suggested an overall cleaning servicing - so they did a THROTTLE BODY; MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR SERVICE; INJECTOR SERVICE; EEC TEST; REPLACED FUEL FILTER. They stated the computer reported a LEAN CODE. (they did not disclose the code to me)

The above service I felt was reasonable based on my history with the car. They stated the maintenance was "required" but may not resolve the issues.

As at today:
- The rough idle appears to be present still - no code yet, but I see (RPM) and feel the roughness
- The fast idle when cold - jury is still out - it appears it still is an issue.

First, does anyone have any ideas on this?
Second, do both problems sound related or unrelated?

What gave me an uneasy feeling is that the FAST IDLE WHEN COLD didn't seem to be known by the dealer - no "it is X".

I could continue with the same dealer (hopefully they can continue where they left off) or go elsewhere to a small garage or something. Part of me is uneasy - a 10year old car.. "experts" that can't pinpoint the problem.. don't want to be pouring good money into something that already has had about $300US (tax in) to review so far.

Part of me is saying check the Chilton book and see if I can diagnose myself (checking the O2 sensors).

Hard call..

any help would be most appreciated.
belly[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I too am experiencing a similar problem. Did you get your problems figured out? If so what was the fix.

Thanks
Which problem? Or both?

The fast idle and jumping - well as bad as before. Now it is winter I wait about 1 -2 minute warming up then put into gear. Does not lunge like before. But if I am in a hurry, yes, it does the same and expect it continue.

As for the rough idle and engine light. The light has not come on since the repair nor has it run very rough (dropping below 700). However, I still don't think I am better off. No it isn't as bad. But if the problem is a sensor - cleaning won't solve. But the problem itself might have been attributed to "80%" sensor and "20%" cleaning.

I spoke with someone - no idea car - but friend had a transmission problem. $2K later - a transmission sensor was found. I am sure that is at least $500 in parts that "didn't solve the problem" and $1500 for labor. Hindsight is 20/20 -- cheaper to replace the transmission than to repair - right?

Unfortunately - this is the world we have entered. The car makers can't make money selling cars anymore - so they are loaded with computers and the "labor cost to repair" game is afoot.

Our communist province listens to the environmentalists - forced to have a 2 year "drive clean" program - I am sure the car companies have something to do with this. I paid under $200 to get by with a muffler repair last year. But I have about 9mths to hope they cancel the program or probably have to replace the entire exhaust system for $4-500. ... but the prospects of getting a car are greater with the two problems above.

Will update accordingly.

Cheers mate!
belly
 
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