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I have a 98 Crown Vic with about 147,000 on the car about 35,000 on the engine, bought this car from a friend (fairly reliable friend) for the dirt cheap price of 500$ so I am expecting a few problems. So here are my issues so far with the car, was getting a check engine light with code p0308 and having valve clatter upon acceleration when at normal running temperature. I have Replaced the fuel filter and run fuel system cleaner through a few full tanks of gas. (did this first because car sat for a few months before i purchased it) I have checked the coil packs they seem to be fine not throwing any sparks and are in good condition. I have pulled all of the plugs and cylinder 7-8 spark plugs had oil on them (not at the tip though). replaced those 2 with new plugs as the rest look to be in good shape, I know i need to replace all of them but am trying to solve the valve clatter. In doing these things after i unhooked the battery to clear the CEL its hasn't came back but am still experiencing valve clatter. I have check the air hoses for leaks none were found. cooling system seems to be running fine not leaks not overheating, no oil in water or water in oil. Just looking for a little guidance as to where I should start from here. Other than the valve clatter the car runs great does start up rough every so often.
 

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I'd pull the valve cover and check the valve train. May even try to run it and see about your oil delivery. You said that there was oil in lugs 7 and 8, does it look like it came from our side or inside the cylinder? You also said that the engine had 35K, original or after rebuild?
 

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Engine was brand new put in about 35,000 miles ago car currently has 148,000 on it not original engine that was in car, oil looks like it's coming from this side NOT inside the cylinder
 

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Could be a number of things, if you used the wrong viscosity oil, the lifters may not be pumping up properly, the rockers may need to be retorqued, could also be detonation (many times confused for valve clatter), also possibly exhaust leak.
 

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Who rebuilt the engine? The oil pump is in front and these symptoms can occur if the pickup is not properly installed. You could also lose oil pressure (tension) to the cam chain tensioners, which could cause them to jump a tooth. I would install a temporary oil pressure gauge and monitor pressure under acceleration. Sorry to ask, but are you absolutely sure you are using the proper viscosity oil and that the level is correct?
 

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Engine was put in brand new not rebuilt, do not know who installed n?e engine as I bought the car after the fact may be able to find out where it was done but could take some time, did have oil changed at tire Kingdom (I know I had a free coupon) they could have used wrong oil oil pressure and level is fine I'm going to be changing oil myself here very soon and am thinking of using 20w50 is this I'll advised or should I try the thicker oil see if it stops my problem
 

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I have a 97 vic. I have the same problem. I can run mid grade gas and the pre-ignition knock goes away. I have no codes showing up. When I do run regular gas, it depends on which gas I use. If I buy from wal-mart, rattles real bad. if I use chevron not so much. When I use real gas(not ethanol) again not so much rattle. Down here in Hattiesburg Ms, we have a station selling premium(93) non ethanol. I haven't tried it yet it is located on the other side of town. I think it might have something to do with the knock sensor but I am not worried about it as long as I can get the mid grade gas. The pre-ignition knock is not good for the tops of the pistons or the top rings.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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If it knocks with lower grade gas its probably because you have a lot of carbon built up in the combustion chamber slightly upping the compression. Op Ive had lash adjustor tick on my old 00 gt and it would primarily happen at lower speeds and while holding out gears like if I were driving through a parking lot in 2nd.

Youre throwing a misfire code for cylinder 8 so its best to check the spark plug and go from there. You said that coil got oil on it, it seems like a common problem since my 02 gt and many stang guys on google have that same problem. If its not the plug its the coil has failed. When they get oil on them theyre more suceptable to failing. Im willing to bet its failing or grounding to the block somehow. Either way youll probably have to get a new coil but it might be time to get all new ones.
 

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03 MGM 2 valve SOHC 4.6
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Torque rockers? no...... hydraulic lash adjuster stuck maybe. You can re-install valve springs and torque those if you pull the cams/phasers but you wont torque rockers on this motor, maybe on an old-school push-rod engine as there are no push-rods in OHC engines.

If you have Vale train (top end) "clatter" (multiple clicks and ticks sounding off simultaneously) this could be timing chain tensioners worn and allowing slop in chain causing it to "clatter" against the cover, typically noticeable at idol in park/neutral or red lights disappearing when revving or accelerating.

If you have a Valve train (top end) "tick" (A consistent frequency or pattern of clicks or ticks) this could be a hydraulic lash adjuster thats stuck. This can be experienced from various reasons mostly dealing with starving the heads of oil caused by failing oil pump, wrong oil, bad oil maintenance, failed oil filter (check valve in filter, clogged filter or filtering medium breakdown and clogging delivery), clogged phaser bolt w/ oil feed through, clogged oil delivery to lash adjusters. In rare cases I've heard of loose spark plugs clicking around. Also, if the valve spring is collapsed/worn the rocker will "slap" the cam lobe making a "tick" sound to many miles of this will cause a flat spot in your cam lobe, often this damage is irreversible ensuring a top end rebuild. Lash adjuster sticking or stuck will yield the same issue of a collapsed spring. Pull the valve covers and see which one as lash adjusters and rockers (followers) can be swapped for new ones without rebuild, but valve springs will need a cam/timing rebuild. A good mechanic should be able to take a stethoscope to locate and time (with given knowledge of timing and some simple math to figure out cam lobe revolutions) the ticks while car is running to tell you if you need to pull valve covers off for cam analysis and/or repair.

Or.... do you have a "KNOCK" (A KNOCK will be a much louder and more pronounced deeper tap sound, typically with longer, yet still constant interval between knocks than you would experience with a top end "tick" as explained above) closer to the bottom of engine.... did you spin a crank bearing?! Or a damaged wrist pin that connects cylinder to cylinder connecting rod to crank....

There's also a known exhaust manifold leak issue (mostly at high mileage of original engine assy around 100k up) known to cause a "tick" sound.... with this one you may (or may not) notice the tick is accompanied by a "whisping" (sucking or blowing air or exhaust) indicating an exhaust leak at the manifold to block junction...

Oil maintenance (USE ONLY FORD OEM OIL AND FILTER unless you're a aftermarket modder with aftermarket requirements) is KEY with a modular ford engine..... or you end up with issues, bad issues! not worth the price of an oil change fellas.... takes 40 bucks and 20 minutes versus 1000's and 20 or days or better to get your car scheduled in a shop for repair work you hope you can trust.
 

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03 MGM 2 valve SOHC 4.6
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Who rebuilt the engine? The oil pump is in front and these symptoms can occur if the pickup is not properly installed. You could also lose oil pressure (tension) to the cam chain tensioners, which could cause them to jump a tooth. I would install a temporary oil pressure gauge and monitor pressure under acceleration. Sorry to ask, but are you absolutely sure you are using the proper viscosity oil and that the level is correct?
How does oil pressure affect a hydraulic chain tensioner? Me dont think so.... if that was the case a cold start up would shred those plastic tensioners and ford would be recalling millions upon millions of engines since 1990....lol
 

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"lol", not exactly. This post is very old, but if you are still having the problem, understand that oil pressure in mod engines absolutely affects the valve train. "How does oil pressure affect a hydraulic chain tensioner"? That's the basic operation principle, and why they are called "hydraulic". Cam chain tension and lifters are oil pressure dependent. Additionally, oil pressure is maintained in the tensioners upon shutdown by check valves. Perhaps it is not valve clatter you are hearing but cam chain rattle. Check for aluminium in the oil. The chains hit the timing cover first.
 

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Agree 100%with Bajarider , and " lol " re. the b/s in this

" How does oil pressure affect a hydraulic chain tensioner? Me dont think so.... if that was the case a cold start up would shred those plastic tensioners and ford would be recalling millions upon millions of engines since 1990....lol "

And just to add , as far as I can find out it was in 2000 Ford switched from the hydraulically operated. ratcheting tensioners .The ratchet prevents the loss of oil pressure from detensioning the chain, unless wear limits are reached and/or something is broken. This is common on many other manufacturers engines and not confined to Ford .Again an old post that has been already replied to .
 

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I have somewhat of the same problem...mine rattles when barely giving gas, but goes away if I increase throttle. A friend that works at Ford says to check DPFE hoses and possibly take off throttle body and check for clogged egr port. He says it is possibly getting egr input when not needed but not enough to cause a CEL. When I check mine I'll let you know what I find.
 

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Old thread - same problem with my 97.

115K miles and purrs like a cat. No CEL and no codes stored.

When accelerating to pass I get hear it start to clatter and the harder I push it the worse it gets. I don't do that often for fear of knocking a hole in a piston.

Tried 5W20 and 5W30 oil. Crankcase is clean of sludge and it made no difference. I've ran gallons of Marvel Mystery Oil through the fuel tank hoping to purge it of excess carbon. It runs buttery smooth but hasn't helped the clatter. Also ran a can of Seafoam through the intake. The only thing that stops the clatter is running higher octane fuel or adding octane booster to the fuel.

It may not be taking enough timing out under load, but if that were the case I would expect to get a code of some kind. Maybe ECM's in 97 just aren't that smart. I'm stumped.
 

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Before you can deal with it you need to determine if it's "valve clatter" or an ignition problem.

I don't recall when knock sensors were first used in Mod engines, but I would not overlook a defective knock sensor as a possible cause of ignition problems.
 

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I dont think the panther cars got knock sensors until around 07 or so when they became flex fuel capable.

It sounds like pinging to me which is a common problem with these cars for various reasons. The link Logan posted may help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Before you can deal with it you need to determine if it's "valve clatter" or an ignition problem.

I don't recall when knock sensors were first used in Mod engines, but I would not overlook a defective knock sensor as a possible cause of ignition problems.
Dont know if this is correct or not

" The FIRST production Panthers to get knock sensors were the '98 and '99 NON-CA Town Cars.

For the 2003 MY, the Marauders got them, they are now "full line".

You have a helluva lot more knowledge on the subject than I , mate .
 
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