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347 cubic power!
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171 Posts
fordfan351 said:
I was gonna go the Explorer Manifold, but for the sake of a few hundred bucks I figure it's worth getting something decent...
I have a TFS track heat, but there is nothing wrong with the explorer manifold. Even unported, it will not get in the way of at least 260rwhp.
 

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Don't forget to account for springs, retainers etc. Sounds like a good setup! you'll end up with a similar setup to mine and i'm hoping for at around 165-180rwkw w/o manifold upgrade and thats through an auto. My next step is clouded in indecision. hmmmm.
 

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Serving Defect #3
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Discussion Starter #83
The heads are brand new and complete with full valvetrain...The best price I have been able to find the Explorer Manifold for is $600 and I dun know if they still have it.

I want 190rwkw, should be enough to push me into the mid to high 13's and enough to knock of the ricer dickheads at work with their ghey WRX's and 180's
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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You may not get to 190rwkw unless you are going to do some EEC mods, probably come damn close though. Anyway, the standard valvetrain on the GT40P heads isn't good for much more than 500th lift. I would recommend getting some decent double row springs and matching retainers etc, because the 2030 has fairly aggresive ramp rates.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I am examining tuning options as we speak...Cheers for the tips on the springs and retainers...what are you using, cost etc ?
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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I am using Crow 7738 double row springs which cost $125 and 11700 retainers at $150 a set.
 

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347 cubic power!
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EDXR8 said:
I would recommend getting some decent double row springs and matching retainers etc, because the 2030 has fairly aggresive ramp rates.
The Crane Cams 2030 kit (p/n 44308-1) includes good single springs. IMHO, unless you really need them, singles will do fine. There is nothing wrong with doubles but overly big valve springing costs you horsepower. If you keep the revs below 6200, I cannot see the need for doubles. However, I agree that the weak stockers have to go.
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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slipper said:
There is nothing wrong with doubles but overly big valve springing costs you horsepower. If you keep the revs below 6200, I cannot see the need doubles. However, I agree that the weak stockers have to go.
Yeah I thought the same but was told that roller cams develop a lot of valve train harmonics, which double springs are suppose to stop. But Crane and many other cam companies still use single springs so it must not be much of a problem.
 

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I'm using crane units (single) of similar price. Thats right $300 odd outta left field, this may happen a couple of times in your build so be ready for them and you'll enjoy the nail biting wait to pick up your beast a whole lot more.
Every engine is different is what i kept being told when i looked at the work going on to my ute when i put the cam in. Prolly worth looking a port job on those heads while they are out. also bigger valves.
Look at slippers car before he got the stroker. same cam as you are looking at, unichip, mild headwork (see: my flow questions earier in this thread), couple other bits and 193rwkw!!!!! sweet!
Next wed i should have the good news as to how my beast went with the chiptorque unit helping out and some before and after dyno results. As stated a few times before i'm using chip torque because my rev limiter is too low(5500rpm) and i want it upped to make proper use of the cam (6200ish rpm). Chiptorque is the ONLY non full aftermarket way to up the limiter on eec5 without buying a new ecu ($700 odd change over) and going through all the crap to get keys etc sorted out. Even the full after market systems (lower end) have probs with our lovely V8's (Somthing to do with crank angle sensor). I was unwilling to be another R&D car so i opted for the safe way out and i'm pretty confident of success. Even if i run 8psi boost i'm covered with a chiptorque chip.
Phew i went on a fair bit there hope it helps!
 

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Is it worth getting bigger valves on a set of ported GT40Ps?
I know they would flow well with the stock 1.84/1.46 valves, but would using larger valves (say 1.9-1.94 and 1.54-1.6), and/or stainless valves be worth the extra expense.
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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There are decent gains to be had with larger valves. My GT40P's are the Tickford 220kw fitted with 1.9" and 1.54" valves which apparently increased flow by 10%.
 

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220 xr8's did it!? I think!
But the work is a must for max gains of 20 to 40 extra cfm it to be had with this process. Heads will be BIGGEST restriction in this setup otherwise! 193rwkw from an N/A 302 and a mild on at that!!!!!!!!
 

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Guess there would also be a risk of piston to valve clearance if the heads are milled for higher compression, and using a 2031...
Anyone done this? might be tight with stock pistons.
 

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Mine are milled and my 2031 clears fine. But i was a lil worried about this when i had it put in. This is why I got Widowmaker to do it. Even though it cost more, i know it's done right!!! 2031 has less lift than 2030 and i'm sure slipper had his heads milled when he had his done too. I expect they will be fine. If not thers ways to compensate!
What heads you running Dodgie?
 

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I wanted to use the exact same head setup slipper had, but I was weighing up the cost/benafits of getting bigger valves also.
Also concerned about piston to valve clearances.
How would I get around this if it ends up too tight?
Thicker head gaskets?
Get the dremmel onto the pistons? (seems a bit dodgie).
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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Notch the pistons or get new pistons would really be the only option. Thicker head gaskets reduces quench and can cause detonation. Although it sounds dodgie, lots of the Mustang guys notch the pistons without problems.
 

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Well they don't call me dodgie for nuthin!
Just have to weigh up the pros n cons of bigger valves (if I go that way), then hit the pistons with a dremmel if things get too tight.
Would low rpm torque suffer if I used bigger valves with a ported lower Explorer?
(might see what the corral boys are doing with theres)
 

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345kw of V8 Windsor Power
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Don't think it will affect low down torque too much. When checking my P/V clearance with the larger valves and even small cams, I found that the valves were too close just in the corners of the pistons valve relief's.
 

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So did you just knock the corners of the valve reliefs off with a dremmel?
No engine balance concerns?
Any point in going stainless valves or is that abit over the top?
WTF are tuliped valves?
Thanks for answering my 20 questions.
 

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Serving Defect #3
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Discussion Starter #100
The heads im getting are straight of an AU3 XR8 motor that was never run. My mechanic is also my best mate so he and I will be rebuilding the motor step by step in my shed(gotta learn motors sometime dont I) Trust me when I say the outta left field $300+ has happened many many times before with this car. I set out to convert it to manual, i finished up spending like 8K, and converting to V8 as well. Things get out hand real quick when I'm standing in a shop surrounded by parts for my car.

My motor has a 6250 rpm rev limit, how come the AU is so low?
 
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