I spoke to a performance place today about my au that has had a flat spot ever since i have had the exhaust on he told me i might need a replacement computer i thought i would only need just the chip any comments also what sort of price would i be looking at for a chip and tune.
aftermarket computer
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id recommend getting an aftermarket computer, instead of just a chip, the chip might be able to sort out that flat spot but for only acouple hundred more you can get an ems comp stinger 2 version for almost a $1000. which when you think about it can do alot more then a chip and will also be better if your planning to do more mods. if not then a chip would be great for that cheap upgrade. in adelaide i know chiptorque will fully fit and tune a chip to my ea for $600, i dont know if its any different to v8's. good luck with it.
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I didn't think the stingers worked on EEC V??
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I got a uni-chip piggy back unit put on my ED5ltr,worked well smoothing out the power line and got about 20rwhp.With the new exhaust it got another 10whp.But you will need it set up and dynoed.
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The price is about 1200 but what ever you change on the motor you can retune through the chip.
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Unichips are the best tuning available for the EEC V. I know alot of people getting them now.
How much are stingers these days to install and tune.
How much are stingers these days to install and tune.
The biggest problem of the Unichip is that only dealers can tune it. Get it installed, then go back a couple of times and you have just paid for a Stinger or Wolf 3D. The only difference is that you paid in installments.
I would only recomend Unichips for one time only tunes, doing the tune last on a mild car.
If you install a aftermarket computer yourself you should be able to squeeze it for $1500. Anyone with 1/2 a brain should understand the installation manual.
I would only recomend Unichips for one time only tunes, doing the tune last on a mild car.
If you install a aftermarket computer yourself you should be able to squeeze it for $1500. Anyone with 1/2 a brain should understand the installation manual.
i got a quote off chiptorque at the gold coast for 895 fully fitted and dyno tuned with all printouts im enquiring to get the chip rewritten through a smaller company down there and see how that comes in for price. the exhaust was a one off mod so i wouldnt need the chip re written again
has anyone else had this?
since having the stinger on my AU my DTE counter on my instrument cluster has dramatically lost its accuracy, im assuming because the factory ECU has no idea what the fuel system is doing anymore?
oh and btw, my AU was the first 6 cylinder that a stinger had been put onto, with a few hiccups which are now sorted
since having the stinger on my AU my DTE counter on my instrument cluster has dramatically lost its accuracy, im assuming because the factory ECU has no idea what the fuel system is doing anymore?
oh and btw, my AU was the first 6 cylinder that a stinger had been put onto, with a few hiccups which are now sorted
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I use the EMS 8860 on an EA turbo and it runs better than the orginal computer and gives heaps better economy. Remember the car companies cant tune their cars too lean because they wont pass the emmissions testing. With Programmable EMS you can tune however you like. I make a adaptor harness also that allows the EMS 8860 to be plugged straight into EA to ED I6 and V8 autos or manual trans harness. No cutting, just straight plug in. E-mail if interested
I would agree that a Stinger or Wolf 3D is a good way to go if you want to have full control over the engine. However to suggest that anyone with 1/2 a brain can install these is a bit rich (no pun intended, well maybe just a little!).not ford said:
I would also suggest that for most people the best advice is to have the unit professionally installed.
Then, regardless of who installs the unit, they should all be programmed by a competent dyno operator. This is definately not a DIY job.
Finally, what difference is there in getting a Unichip installed and going back and getting it remapped after each mod and have a Stinger or Wolf 3D installed and having to get them remapped after each mod??
I think your on the mark there Falkeen. This is what I believe to be ONE of the disadvantages of using an aftermarket computer, along with idle control for power steering and air con, gear changes in autos etc.FalKeen said:
Just my .02
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Unichips and other piggyback/interceptor devices will not give you anything over the factory EEC unless you have some serious mods which throw the factory sensors outside their normal range, like installing bigger injectors with the stock MAF etc. Just check what the V8 guys are doing in the states with the standard EEC system.
There is no reason why just a new exhaust system would give you a major flat spot. I would be checking for damaged O2 sensors etc instead on looking to EEC upgrades.
There is no reason why just a new exhaust system would give you a major flat spot. I would be checking for damaged O2 sensors etc instead on looking to EEC upgrades.
everyone i have spoken to(mechanics) have pointed towards computer and me not really knowing to much would probly believe them. the o2 sensors where looked over the other day. i was told fuel mapping would be up the duff so i would need to get it dynod to prove this i would love to think it was something else but i cant argue with the pros
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Sorry but if they tell you that a chip is required just for an exhaust, they are not pros, they just want your money. The factory EEC sytem will relearn fuel curves to suit most mods, it just takes 1-200km's. It can be hurried up a little by resetting the computer by leaving the battery off for an hour or so. There are many people running head/cam/intake etc mods putting out close to 200rwkw without touching the EEC. In the states it is regular for the 5.0L mustang guys to run 11-12sec 1/4 miles also on the stock EEC. A unichip or similar will allow the EEC to be remaped instantly, but it will only usually give the same result as the stock EEC after it has had a change to reprogram itself.
That maybe true mate but the Aussie EECIV is totally different in the way it is mapped compared to the US.EDXR8 said:
I can take out my Chip Module go for a fang for a few days & agreed I will be happy.
But put that "Chip" back in again and its a totally different ballgame.
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Your chip probably is worth it because with your mods and increased displacement a lot more has to be changed in the EEC before it will run to it's best. I am no expert in the way the EEC works but have picked up a bit along the way. It just seems that for very minor mods like exhaust and even mild cam, intake and head changes, there are a couple of workshops which will tell you that a chip is needed. Others just laugh and tell you that the EEC is fine as it it, just let it work itself out over a couple of weeks of driving.
Big **** there are more and more people that are having their aftermarket ecu's tuned by so called pros. The results are less than spectacular, the most spectacular bit is the rate their wallets thin out at.
I spoke to one of the Dyno Dynamics operators at the Summernats and he told me not to go to several Dyno Dynamics outlets due to their lack of nouse. Most of these guys are retards a best.
Aftermarket ecus are now heading to windows based software. This direction is now making the tuning a hell of alot easier, Haltech for example allows you now to enter data into a 3D map, a 2D map or even into a raw spreadsheet form. Also in most cases the supplied maps require minimal reworking and hence "pro" tuning. Also the aftermarket is heading into a more plug 'n' play situation, this means wiring in your aftermarket ecu installation is only going to get easier in my opinion.
Also falkeen's DTE counter is probably not working properly because the PWM output for the fuel consumption is not set right. All the aftermarket ecu's have a heap of inputs for air-con and power steering (which you don't really need). The switch is something that Ford invented to replace the XD-XF door handles to make money. If you disconnect it the idle goes down only about 60-90rpm.
I spoke to one of the Dyno Dynamics operators at the Summernats and he told me not to go to several Dyno Dynamics outlets due to their lack of nouse. Most of these guys are retards a best.
Aftermarket ecus are now heading to windows based software. This direction is now making the tuning a hell of alot easier, Haltech for example allows you now to enter data into a 3D map, a 2D map or even into a raw spreadsheet form. Also in most cases the supplied maps require minimal reworking and hence "pro" tuning. Also the aftermarket is heading into a more plug 'n' play situation, this means wiring in your aftermarket ecu installation is only going to get easier in my opinion.
Also falkeen's DTE counter is probably not working properly because the PWM output for the fuel consumption is not set right. All the aftermarket ecu's have a heap of inputs for air-con and power steering (which you don't really need). The switch is something that Ford invented to replace the XD-XF door handles to make money. If you disconnect it the idle goes down only about 60-90rpm.
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