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Discussion Starter #1
I will add info on how it goes. I currently have the spindles, calipers, rotors, and a booster from the 70. Don't know if I am going to try to make the power work since if the booster is dead I will have to buy another for $$$$$. Calipers (loaded) cost me $35, rotors $45, first place I went charged me $50 each for the soft hoses(and that was with my discount). The second charged me $35 each for the hoses. I don't know what to do about distribution block and proportioning valve yet. I am going junkyardin to see if I can find one on a car. I am told that the proportioning valve stuff off a 70s up midsized car will work fine, even up to 90s mustangs. My car does not have power breaks, so I will be using a 74 maverick mastercylender from a non power, disk equiped car ($16). No special pedal needed!

At the same time I am doing this I will be adding 620# 1" drop springs and doing the shelby control arm relocation.

My week vacation just turned into a nightmare!!!!!:(

Will let you know what I come up with!
 
M

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Ok so far I have cleaned all the old equipment. I have 2 very nice looking spindles loaded with rotors and calipers. I had a real bear yesterday. I found out that the proportioning valve used on the 70 mustangs was part of the distribution block. I looked on a bunch of newer cars that I had been told had proportioning valves I could use, but I never found it. I just may not know what to look for. I ended up purchasing a Wilwood valve new from the local parts store. Cost $50. I am doing my best to keep my existing tubing and distribution block. Spent all day running around trying to find adaptors to let me do that. I am working on 2 options right now on master cylinders:

1 67-70 mustang with power disk brakes
2 74 maverick with nonpower disk brakes.

I have been told that both of them work by different people. My first attempt will be witht the 67-70 setup as if I later decide to add power to the unit I will be ready to go.

I don't know what happened yesterday, but nothing worked as it should. I drove 65 miles in town to different stores looking for adaptors. Today I dropped in discount auto parts (I usually try to avoid them since my last fight with them over a core they would not accept because the box was damaged). Lo and behold they had prefab tubing with different size fittings on each end that would work for my 67-70 mustang master cylinder. I just had to get 1 adaptor (the only one they stock evidently) and it worked. I was able to also get 1 tube that worked with the maverick master cylender and then got 2 tubes that had the correct fitting I needed on 1 end and something I didn't on the other. I then found a local auto shop that could cut and flair the lines for me (making one that I needed). He was waiting on a drum to turn so he did not even charge me! Got the tubing bent, proportioning valve tenativly positioned, and just need to make the braket for the proportioning valve to be done with that part. I will be stripping off the old spindels tomorrow and starting work on the upper control arm relocation.

Will update again soon!
 
M

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Damn, nothing seems to be going right. First I found one of the many fittings I ended up with was not the right kind. Had to start all over again with finding those. Finally ended up with one that was not the right size tube, but it seems to be holding. I got my first MC and the damn thing had bad threads. Found out today that the 2nd one I got would not pump fluid to the rears. Back to the store I went... Got a good MC (67-70 PDB one) and finally got it in. Bled the brakes but could not get a good pedal out of it. Someone said they used that MC, but I am going to try the 74 maverick one tomorrow after work. Good news is that the 620 lb 1 inch drop coils will slide into place without using the spring compressors! WOOHOOO! 2 things I hate most is spring compressors and brake line fittings. Will keep you updated!
 
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Brake problem, any ideas?

I cannot seem to get a decent pedal in the car. I am trying to add disk brakes from a 70 mustang to a 67. I am not using a power booster due to cost constraints. I am using the factory 67 distibution block and an aftermarket wilwood proportioning valve plumbed in after the distribution block to go to the rear wheels. I have now tried both a 67-70 PDB MC and a 74 maverick Non-PDB MC with the same problem. I bench bled both MC's and probably had 10 pumps per wheel with no bubbles. Now when I did this with the second master cylinder I never got any air to bubble out at the front calipers. But I bleed and bleed to no avail. The pedal really feels like there is air in there somewhere, but don't know what else to try. Any ideas?!:confused:

Good news is after the coil springs were installed and the upper control arm mod, I seem to still have plenty of room for the tires. I don't know if my old springs were just really worn out, but initial hight seems to be about the same as my old one. I assume the springs will settle some, but I don't forsee any problems at this time!
 
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Have had a suggestion that my front calipers could be reversed. And that seems like a possiblity. I just kept them on the same spindles I found them with, but they could have been switched 15 years ago when pulled.
 
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Found my problem. Mustang Steve and a few others were right, calipers were on the wrong sides. This pointed the bleed screws at a point lower than the highest point in the piston. Swapped them and tada, DISK BRAKES!
 
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mfp4073
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