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Life-long Ford guy...
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Discussion Starter #1
As a result of a mold exposure in early 2014, I was diagnosed with is called Adult Onset Asthma about mid-summer of that year. Trust me, it's a b***h to live with.

Since then I have become hyper-aware of certain influences on my respiratory system, and one of the things I realized is that musty duct-work in an auto or a building will set me off.

My truck has begun giving me fits. It does not smell moldy to my wife, but when I turn on the AC I develop a cough and get hoarse. If I ride with the windows down, no problem.

So here are my questions.

1. Is there a filter to be replaced on the 2010 Ranger? If yes, I need to know how to get that done.

2. Whether there is a filter or not, what suggestions can you offer for cleansing the duct-work and related coils on the vehicle?

This asthmatic response to the truck started just this spring, so I'm thinking if there is a way to clear out the duct-work that I'll be able to keep this truck. And I make my living talking (educator) so I need to get this resolved.

Any insight will be appreciated.


Thanks in advance,

Rick
 

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Life-long Ford guy...
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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you sir! I'm going to watch that again and see if I can read the part number off of the video.
 

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Well ... at partstrain.com I find there is no cabin air filter for my 2010 US spec Ranger.


What are my other options for cleansing the duct work system?
 

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If I recognise a fellow Australian's accent (and noting it's also RHD vehicle with the glovebox on the left), that video appear to be Australian and our Ford Rangers and Everests are not the same beast as the North American ones. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Ranger
For markets outside of North America, Ford badge engineered the Japanese-built Mazda B-Series as the Courier starting in 1971, renaming it the Ranger in 1998 (with the exception of Australasia where the Courier nameplate was retained until 2006; incidentally the Courier was also sold in North America prior to the 1983 model year). Second-generation Ranger models from 2006 to 2011 were also designed by Mazda, being rebadged versions of the successor to the B-Series, the first generation BT-50.
Everything I can find online suggests a 2010 North American Ranger does not have a cabin filter e.g. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2008_Ford_Ranger_XL_2.3L_4_Cyl._Standard_Cab_Pickup/air_filter_cabin/replace and https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion-15/2010-ranger-regular-cab-xl-4-cyl-cabin-air-filter-113145/

Some older EV and US rental rangers did see: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/interior-tech/113880-mysterious-cabin-air-filter.html and http://www.fordrangerforum.com/interior-tech/141843-cabin-air-filter-mystery.html#post2722426
 

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Despite no readily apparent evidence of mold, I would suspect there is some mold or fungi (leaves etc get into the ducts from the cowl vent and rot away) and that is causing your reaction. See https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Car-AC-Vents for how to clean vents and ducts; you'll have to ignore the bit about the pollen filter though. Buy and use a aerosol can that has enzymatic disinfectants as part of its contents as sold at auto parts stores to clean car air conditioning.

E.g.


If that doesn't work you might look at trying to vacuum as much as you can out of the ducts etc. Remove the glove box and vacuum the heater box (where lots of dead leaves often collect) and blower fan (but use a screwdriver or similar held against a fan blade to stop the fan spinning as vacuuming the fan can cause it to rotate in the wrong direction and/or too fast and the bearing to be damaged). While you are there check that the heater box has no green stains indicating it's weeping coolant (that will make you sneeze too). Also vacuum the foot level inlets and outlets with the air con in both fresh air and recirculate mode. You might also use an inspection camera to look in all the air con ducts and other openings looking for rotting plant material, insects or other debris in the ducts etc.

(e.g. one of these; note they are also able connect to computers and stand alone models with their own screen are also available)
)

If that fails maybe it's a dashboard out full clean out job or trade to a vehicle with a cabin filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for the feedback. I have plenty of info to get me started.
 

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Bear in mind, your HVAC system will be condensing (sweating) until your relative humidity is down into the 30% range. Perfect environment for bacterial, mold and fungus growth.
 

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Bear in mind, your HVAC system will be condensing (sweating) until your relative humidity is down into the 30% range. Perfect environment for bacterial, mold and fungus growth.

Roger that. I live in the deep south USA and 2018 has been an exceptionally humid summer. I have this coming Friday and Saturday off so a thorough cleaning of the truck system is my primary chore for the two days.


I say two days because the wife knows I have the days coming, and although she has not said anything yet, I have this psychic impulse that tells me a morning devoted to the truck will not be an uninterrupted exercise! :hy:
 

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I know the feeling. Right now I have an M5R2 transmission in partial disassembly and needing parts (had to get into it to confirm the number of reverse\OD teeth). Even when my wife is at work, I'll get a phone call or text leading with "I know you're busy, but..."
 
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