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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, in the 100W 4 speaker stereo, what size are the speakers?

Any help appreciated, thanks in advance
Matt
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Im looking around the board and i just saw 5x7 mentioned for the rear ones, is that correct and are the front ones the same size?

cheers,
Matt
 

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5x7 all round, yep.

If you're thinking of upgrading the speakers, don't limit yourself to 5x7s. There's heaps of room for more popular sizes. :)
 
S

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6" splits in the front, 6x9's in the rear and feel the rumble behind you with crystal clear linearity between 250Hz and 8kHz in the front. But that's just me.
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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Discussion Starter #5
Damn i love this board, so quick.. thanks;)

"There's heaps of room for more popular sizes. :) "

Thanks DisTurboed, thats good to know:)

" 6" splits in the front, 6x9's in the rear and feel the rumble behind you with crystal clear linearity between 250Hz and 8kHz in the front. But that's just me "

smick_ba, That crystal clear linearity, will that be there if the speakers are merely replaced or is some fancy gear needed to be added? ie: Is the stock head unit good enough quality to achieve what you mentioned?

I ask because i have a set of Boston rally 6.5's -you think they would fit in the front? What speakers do you have in yours mate?

cheers,
Matt
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
Roona,


if u do a search on ba sounds you will find several threads on this subject, I think the head unit is good enough with replacement speakers in the doors and rear if you dont NEED serious base, if you do have the need then you have some options, try doing a search and if you want more info get back to me.

cheers
Red
 

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6.5s should fit in the door ok. If not, it shouldn't be too hard to modify to suit.

I've got 6" 3 ways in the front, and 6x9" 3 ways in the rear. Sounds super.


When I saw the space in the rear cavity, it occured to me that there may be room for 2 10" subs in there, maybe even 12s. That is, 2 in each side.
4 10" subs would be nice...
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Bloodnut, no worries, i have done a few searches but i will do some more detailed ones using what you suggested, thanks red -i may just take you up on that offer of more info;)


DisTurboed, sounds good, i will put the Boston rally's up front and throw some Boston 6x9's in the rear. I agree there is space for subs behind but merely replacing the stockies will keep me happy for a bit (not long, but hopefuly a little while) lol

Thanks guys, cya round
Matt
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
Roona,


I have 7 in splits (cerwin-vega) in the front which fit no problem, made up a metal plate and they just fitted in the hole without cutting any factory metal away.

You can put 6x9's in the rear but because in the ute the rear speakers are up high and close to your ear u will find that they dominate the sound field and this creates an imbalance.

the answer is to fit subbies in the rear as they have a more spread sound field and dont override the fronts. I tried to fit 10 inch subbies in the rear but it would have required butchering the standard set-up, so I went with 2 polk 8 inch subbies powered by a 120w rms amp.

Cheers

Red
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
fordy,


To fit the 8 inch subbies you need to cut out a section of mdf/plywood to snuggly fit in the space were the 5x7's are now. Remember this must be air tight or as close as possible, I used some sheets of metallic stuff (like tin foil) with rubber sticky backing (got this from the hifi store), you cut strips to suit and stick it around all the joins and edges.

The 8 inche subs will fit between the sides without cutting the factory metal, 10's will require cutting. It also pays to fill this cavity with sound deadening material.

To test you have a good seal, crank it up and see if both cones in the subs are visably moving and at about the same rate, If they arent moving much (or too much) then you have an air leak.

The amp is a clarion which is under the passenger seat. you will need an amp with "line level inputs" so check b4 buying.

The subs run off the rear speaker wires from the head unit into the amp and then to the subs.

Don't run your front speakers through the amp or you will get a hum that is a pain and is very difficult to get rid of.

cheers
Goodluck
Red
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the input both of you, very helpful.

I understand the reasoning on not using rear fill as the staging would be fairly wack having the rears so close and ithink your onto a winner there with your setup.

Do you think putting Boston 5x7's in the front (no mods which is good), disconnecting the rear speakers and using the power through an amp to 2 10's (one behind each seat) would be ok? I might go that path as very little messing around needs to be done then. What do you think fellaz?

Matt
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
The head unit runs my cerwin vega 7 inch splits (which are $895 top of the range speaker)no problem at all, remember if you channel your horsepower (via an amp)through the subs in the rear the fronts dont have to have heaps of power, & it all balances nicely. Its only a ute cabin to full. (supercab of course).

Plug those babies in the doors and your sound will increase 10fold.

One thing I have noticed with my CV's is the tweeter (in the door pillar, $32 from ford for covers with tweeter holes for those that didnt option 6 disc prem sound) is much brighter than the tweeter in the 5x7 clarions I tried first, the tweeter in the cv's is about twice the diameter and just fits behind the factory hole.

U need the tweeter in the door pillar else the "tops" get lost down below your knee's n things, especially if u run a passenger often.

Hope this helps.

cheers
Red
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
Roona that setup would roost. however u will lose all that valuable space behind the seats.

If u can use a jig saw ($30-$40) u can fit sub's in the orig holes in the rear easy, believe me I no rocket scientist.

Buy mdf at your local hardware store, about 1-2sqm & 12-15mm thick. Use the factory plate as a pattern guide to draw outside shape, mark edges and center hole for subbie and cut. Drill holes for screws in the same place as factory and put im in using insulation tape as detailed above.

To get decent sound out of a sub's though you need grunt- 100w rms min per channel.

U could fit some brands of 10 inch subs (they all vary in diameter and depth)so try a few sizes at some big car stereo shops, everything un-clips in seconds.


cheers
Red
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
bloodnut, lot of info there so im going to have a good and proper read later tonight.

I may go the same route as i did with my hilux (subs behind seats but removeable for the working week) upgrade the fronts and disconnect the rears.

You have actually given me lots of ideas mate and some good bass could be had doing what you mentioned with the 8's.

Thanks for the info, ill come up with a plan and put it forward for review;)

cheers,
Matt
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I think i have it planned out:

Boston Acoustic 5x7's in the front, just replace stockies.
Disconnect rear speakers and re route their wires to run to my Alpine V12 MRV1005 Expert amp which will in turn power a Boston Pro 12.5LF sub. I will box the sub in the middle of the behind seat area as i have measured and checked the sealed box specs for this sub and it would be a very snug fit.

Does that sound feasible? Then i dont even have to touch the Head Unit itself and everything is fairly straight forward. One worry i have is that the standard speaker wires would be too small? (ie: would they handle the power of 3-400 RMS?)

ANy further advice greatly appreciated as this way i still have room behind each seat;)

Matt
 

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If all else fails-GAS IT!
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114 Posts
Perfect Roona,


should do the job nicely, I would fit large quality cable from your v12 to your sub, the rest of the factory wiring to the front spks and to the amp will be ok as not having to carry too much load.

Look forward to your results.

cheers
Red
 

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BluePrint Bandit
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Red, i was thinking about it when iwent to bed and my "too small" wire question was silly lol your right, ill put some appropriate stuff from the amp on.

Also, im going to use a 10" sub, bass will still be nice but i feel a 12" will be a bit overpowering for a 5x7 driver up front, plus when working the box out i forgot to allow 3/4 or an inch either side for the MDF:doh: so a 10 will be better.

EDIT: Removed picture as it was too big.


Thanks for all your help mate,
Matt
 
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