[qwikcorty]

i have a camshaft sheet in my hands now from speed-pro in dandy, in it had cams by crane cams labeled as blue racer cams. there is 1 in there with the same specs as a crane 246 for $134
The owner also told me something interesting over the phone about the lifters too, said they are all made in the same place then labeled up as crane/crow etc. solid lifter set was $140
anyways i was wondering if anyone uses these blue racer cams?

 

[Dellboy999]

Alot of parts all come from the same factories, but dont all use the same materials, or conform to the same specifications, you may get lucky with a cheaper part that they used better stuff as they had to meet an order and had no cheap stuff on hand, but you generally get what you pay for in todays world, long gone are the days of the cheap bargain being as good as the real product, but having said that there is some top price crap out there too.

Jason

 

[TTNOS8]

qwikcorty: I too use Speed Pro. Chris, Dave & the boys know their shite. I have installed 6 blue racer camshafts of varying specs in varying engines.

The results have been mixed. Some dialled in performed well. Others were up to 12 degrees out, and dialled in, didn't perform like i thought they should.

Cheap cams though

 

[qwikcorty]

hmm ill still give them a go i think, is a degree wheel necessary?

 

[xacoupe]

hmm ill still give them a go i think, is a degree wheel necessary?

unless you are extremely lucky..yes

 

[TTNOS8]

absolutetly.

If you going to spend $150 on a cam upgrade, then you can spend the 10 to 15 mins to make sure it is going to do what it is supposed to do.

advanced or retarded cam timing will affect performance a lot.

 

[TyreToaster]

i have used the blue racer cams a few times on various motors all where driven daily with regular thrashing and never had one die, as far as i know most of those engines r still alive, and your correct blue racer cams are actually crane ( it says so on the box ) and most do come from the same factory you are paying for the brand at the end of the day not always the quality.

 

[qwikcorty]

whats the process of checking the cam if its installed dot to dot? do i need a dial indicator or any other fancy equipment?

 

[Racer]

If its a street car, i'd just throw it in. Of all the cams i've degreed, ive never had to move one.

 

[TTNOS8]

Dial it in. It is worth the 10 minutes it takes.

A degree wheel of some sort and a dial indicator make it easy.

blue racers are a reasonable cam.

But i've never installed a blue racer with either standard or aftermarket timing gears that have dialled in at zero. some have been close, but 1 in particular was 12 degrees out. 12 degrees retarded timing will not give the results desired.

 

[Soxx]

You don't need to a degree wheel to dial in a cam.
Cam grinders give a you a lift at TDC to go off.
All you need to do is find true TDC, throw a dial indicator on the end of a push rod, wind the engine back to the base circle, set dial gauge to zero, wind engine forward to TDC and make sure dial gauge reads the same as the cam grinders figure.

Too easy.

Rick.

 

[TTNOS8]

Of course you don't need a degree wheel.

qwik corty obviously hasn't done the job before, and the easiest way for a begineer is to have a degree wheel and a dial indicator.

you could do it by eye and feel if you had to, just like in the olden days.

I suggested that to try and make it easier for him to understand.

IMHO I wouldn't use a pushrod either. I use a solid lifter i've made, and if not that, a lifter going off the flat edge of the outer diameter of the lifter.

 

[Soxx]

No, the easiest way is the way I just described. Not with a degree wheel. You only need a degree wheel if the cam grinder hasn't given you lift at TDC, though I doubt any grinder would that anyhow.

Why would you not use a pushrod? It's a perfectly acceptable way to measure lobe lift and the easiest way for a beginner.

Rick.

 

[TTNOS8]

whatever.

 

[TyreToaster]

BOYS BOYS BOYS lets not get too excited i mean its the guys first attempt at a cam install and your hoping he has a dial indicator and a degree wheel?

 

[qwikcorty]

thanks for the help guys, it seems alot easier than what i first imagained it. i just need the cam and lifters to complete my short now, i got all my stuff back from come racing today.

i remember seeing a article in street machine too about degreeing a cam , might go looking for it. be good to look at pictures

 

[clevo400]

Definately degree the cam in !!!

I used a Precision cam which is the same as the Wolverine/Blue Racer/Cam Dynamics grind and similar to the Mega Tork, Erson TQ20 and crow grinds.

When we dialled it in we had to advance it 2 degrees with the Rollmaster to get back to the specs on the sheet.
We found it was a cheaper price $120 possibly not ground exact like a Crane.

Now using a Crane F246 cam it was spot on and no dialling required. So it should for the price they want and the reputation they need to uphold.

Right about the lifters. Speed Pro/whatever were all supposed to be made by Eaton.

I was told a long time ago there were 5 major cam factories in USA. Crane, Isky, Comp Cams, Crower and McQuay-Norris I think making cams and selling reject but still useable ones in no name generic boxes.

I remember Gary's XE in Street Machine was running 10 Quarters with a Cam Dynamics cheapie. Ran 260 dur at 50" and 5000 convertor.

 

[TTNOS8]

I've installed Blue Racers and had them only 2 degrees out.

I've had custom ground Crow Cams and one was 6 degrees out.

You've obviously spent some dollars so DIAL THE CAM IN! anyone that tells you different is wasting your engine building time.

 

[brenx]

I run a cam dynamics. It's dailed in 2 deg advanced as it was out. Engine builder sent back 2 of the same type cam as one dialed in @ 12 deg and the other @ 16 deg advanced. It's worth while to dial them in.

Brenden

 

[russxr67]

I recently installed a cam dynamics in a clevo i built for a mate and it dialled in perfectly first time.Some guys are appearing to have issues so for what its worth always dial in .