Ford Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I made a list below of everything that has happened thus far to kinda help....but the trucks breaks have gotten to the point to where they are 100% locked up and won't unlock. This is the second time this has happened the first time we replaced the caliper and it was all fixed to a extent. The breaks of you pressed to hard would lock up and you would have to press them really hard multiple times for them to unlock. We went to go start the truck one morning and it will not roll in drive on a hill at all it sits as if it's in park. It's a 94 Ford ranger 6 cylinder 4.0 two wheel front wheel drive. The truck is ran every day and has a lot of use everyday, we have owned it for (way) under 4 years. Their was a crash on the passenger side door large dent into the door and front panel. The truck use to over heat a lot before the clutch fan was replaced *had been worn down on edges*, multiple times the radiators pressure release valve bubbled out. When we took off the tires and things today the caliper had a burn spot on it break pads had heat damage, had cracked. Side note: 1 rotor cracked the other worn down/warped

THINGS REPLACED BEFORE BOUGHT
Rebuilt transmission +more?



THINGS REPLACED AFTER BOUGHT *miles put on: 10K Mabey*
Water pump
New head gaskets
Struts



THINGS REPLACED RECENTLY BOUGHT
Clutch fan
Alternator
Starter
Solenoid
Front rotors
Front calipers
Divers side break hose
New tires




KNOWN THINGS WRONG WITH TRUCK
Mass air flow sensor
Vacuum leak




UNKNOWN THINGS WRONG WITH TRUCK
Break locked up
Truck dieing *mass air flow sensor*
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,168 Posts
Could be pads sticking in calliper , not sliding freely .Master cylinder faulty . Front brake hoses collapsed inside and not letting fluid return . Replace knacked rotors .Just a few suggestions .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Could be pads sticking in calliper , not sliding freely .Master cylinder faulty . Front brake hoses collapsed inside and not letting fluid return . Just a few suggestions .
Hmm okay thanks for that well get some of that checked out when we can. But would replacing the caliper and break pads not fix the pads not sliding freely?? If this is the case. Today we only replaced the passenger caliper but both front break pads *also when this started and it first locked up the front driver side wheel was the only one smoking*
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,168 Posts
You are always best to lubricate slider pins and pad contact points , also dirt / s**t can get in causing them to stick and needing a clean out .Worn rotors wont help either .Other calliper not replaced may need replaced also if piston sticking but could be other suggestions also .


P.s
Important you use the correct lubricant / grease .
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
800 Posts
It sounds like air in the system somewhere. The drivers side front is the closest to the master cylinder and would be affected the most/first as indicated by your last post. Have you checked your master cylinder?

I dont like doing this but I posted a link at the bottom of this post to a good testing procedure for testing the master cylinder and brake booster. Dont pay attention to it being on a honda forum lol. Also visually verify there are no leaks anywhere in the system.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/brake-booster-master-cylinder-testing-procedure-677522/

Edit: Dont listen to my stupidity about air in the lines haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE: we propped the truck up and spinned the wheels every wheel when in neutral spins freely. When put in drive the truck doesn't roll but if the gas is pushed the car is forced to move....any ideals to try and fix it??? How would we check the master cylinder?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It sounds like air in the system somewhere. The drivers side front is the closest to the master cylinder and would be affected the most/first as indicated by your last post. Have you checked your master cylinder?

I dont like doing this but I posted a link at the bottom of this post to a good testing procedure for testing the master cylinder and brake booster. Dont pay attention to it being on a honda forum lol. Also visually verify there are no leaks anywhere in the system.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/brake-booster-master-cylinder-testing-procedure-677522/
Looked this up and tried it seams like its the booster, booster valve didn't get to do a vacuum test yet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
NEW USEFUL UPDATE: ok so the truck in neutral moves when not running but start the engine and the truck won't roll but if the gas is pushed it forces the truck to move until you let go of the gas then it's like your pushing on the break until the truck fully stops and won't move again.

We tested the booster check valve suggestion and found out the hose has a vacuum but the booster does not....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
This is what we tested and the break pedal does not rise.

2. With the engine stopped depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. on consectutive applications the pedal height shoud gradually rise (pumping up the brakes). If the pedal position does not vary check the booster check valve.


Then did this and their is a vacuum in the hose...
CHECK VALVE TEST:
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available the check valve is not wroking correctly... replace the check valve and re-test.


Not sure what to do...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,168 Posts
Basic check for booster , engine off and pump brake pedal a good few times to evacuate vacuum from booster .Holding brake pedal down , start engine and pedal should drop slightly .Check round bottom of booster and see if any signs of brake fluid which would indicate master cyl. leaking into booster which will knacker the diaphragm inside .
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,168 Posts
Found this in regard to booster problems on that vehicle .

" 1994 Ranger should have two brake lines out of the Master Cylinder one for the front and one for the rear so Proportioning Valve is in the master.

The front brakes get 70% of the brake pressure, the rear 30%

If you have replaced the caliper' flexible brake lines then the only thing left is a bad Power Booster.
Inside the cab on the power booster is an "atmosphere valve", when you apply pressure to brake pedal this valve opens and lets the 15psi of air pressure in which "boosts" your foot pressure since power booster has -15psi pressure created by engine vacuum.
There is also a spring inside the power booster to return valve and push rod to "normal" position when your foot is off the brake.
Valve or springs can fail which won't let master release pressure to brakes, you feel it more on the front because or the 70/30 proportioning.

To test this, after front brakes are locked or dragging shut off engine slightly push down on brake pedal 5 times, this will remove the vacuum on the power booster, or just remove the power booster's hose and check valve, have to take out the check valve or vacuum won't be released.
See if brakes are released now, if so replace power booster. "

and another test you can do ,

You can also try driving until they start to bind and unbolt / loosen the master cyl. from the booster. if they free up its the booster pushing on the master cyl.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top