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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the forums!

My 2020 Escape Hybrid (Titanium trim) is having some strange electrical issues - when I attempt to start the car the green LED light on the start switch flashes on and off rapidly and needless to say the car won't fully start. The dashboard screen doesn't illuminate. The SYNC radio/etc work only when I press the power on button, and when I turn it off I get a "Vehicle Network Communication Error."

Interestingly, when the start switch LED flashes, the power steering is active. But, the transmission gear selector is locked, so I can't change the gear.

I tried jumpstarting it but that didn't work - a voltmeter plugged into the battery posts showed a 13.1 volt reading.

I've had the car for about 10 months and a little less than 7000 miles on the odometer -- it's fairly new.

Anyone else experience the same problems? I am thinking it's something electrical related and hopefully there will be a quick resolution to this.

Cheers.
 

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Get it booked into dealership for checking and repair under warranty . May be something as simple as a possible software update needed . I wouldn't mess about trying to solve the fault as it may invalidate your warranty .
 

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New to the forums!

My 2020 Escape Hybrid (Titanium trim) is having some strange electrical issues - when I attempt to start the car the green LED light on the start switch flashes on and off rapidly and needless to say the car won't fully start. The dashboard screen doesn't illuminate. The SYNC radio/etc work only when I press the power on button, and when I turn it off I get a "Vehicle Network Communication Error."

Interestingly, when the start switch LED flashes, the power steering is active. But, the transmission gear selector is locked, so I can't change the gear.

I tried jumpstarting it but that didn't work - a voltmeter plugged into the battery posts showed a 13.1 volt reading.

I've had the car for about 10 months and a little less than 7000 miles on the odometer -- it's fairly new.

Anyone else experience the same problems? I am thinking it's something electrical related and hopefully there will be a quick resolution to this.

Cheers.
I just had this exact same problem, except that the car stranded me on the road. It only had 9000 miles on it. Just had it towed to the dealer and am waiting for a diagnosis. Not good. Not happy.
 

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I just experienced exactly the same error. My dashboard and navigation panel blacked out. Then the car stopped running. I could not even turn in hazard light. I was in the middle of a busy interception. Ford roadside assistance and queens Ford dealer handled the response so poorly, I ended up calling AAA. I was told to call 911. I asked about use of manual key to bypass. I was told if I’m unhappy, call sales. Roadside and service department also tried to tell me that the other group was responsible to take care of roadside service call. Roadside assistance literally said it cannot reach dispatch and will call there nearest dealer which sadly enough was who sold me the car. When AAA took me to the dealer, dealer service department said they didn’t receive the ticket from roadside. They then went on to tell me maybe my car got wet. When I told them about the location of the interception, they said isn’t there a gas station on the corner. Wow!!!
 

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2020 less 9k miles. Nothing I was driving on a perfectly sunny Saturday. In the middle of road dashboard and navigation went black then car shut down. Ironically the car won’t stop connecting with my phone vis Bluetooth, I let having to call back AAA and Ford roadside because they can’t hear me. Phone kept connecting to car but since radio was dead, I can’t hear them they can’t hear me
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi everyone, saw a lot of activity and forgot to update !
I ended up getting a tow to the dealership and fortunately they were able to replicate the issue. I think some electrical wiring got loose.
For info this was a 2020 escape with a little less than 7000 mi on it.

Some comments in the service notes - no PCM communication, disconnected c1035a and c1035b connectors, checked fuses - checked ok, reconnected/secured c1035a and c1035b, issue cleared, possible threading on c1035a and c1035b
 

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Another word, all of us basically have a new car. I started to look into 2020 FORD ESCAPE SUV AWD | NHTSA. Others have reported similar issues. This specific one, 11429755, reported identical issue to my experience. It was in CA. They can’t blame it on a puddle! I encourage everyone on this thread to report your issue to NHTSA so we can put lemon law and market wide recall in force. We should not be settling for repair under warranty. The way Ford has handled customer service is a horror show. I reported the precursor to this issue to dealer and sync. They did nothing. Apple level 3 had to step in to help me fix the sync issue over a weekend when we thought it was just Bluetooth phone connection rated.
 

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All of us have moral obligation to escalate this to NHTSA and state authority. This could have happened to a driver in the middle of night on a highway. I’m a single woman who live and work in NYC. I was lucky that I didn’t get run over in middle of night
 

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10/14/2021 - my escape while driving just died in mid traffic in a 50mph zone and completely shut down without warning… waiting for the tow truck now. Has not rained or anything here in days, and it’s currently 76°f right now, and clear as day. Car currently has 15,588miles on it.
 

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New to the forums!

My 2020 Escape Hybrid (Titanium trim) is having some strange electrical issues - when I attempt to start the car the green LED light on the start switch flashes on and off rapidly and needless to say the car won't fully start. The dashboard screen doesn't illuminate. The SYNC radio/etc work only when I press the power on button, and when I turn it off I get a "Vehicle Network Communication Error."

Interestingly, when the start switch LED flashes, the power steering is active. But, the transmission gear selector is locked, so I can't change the gear.

I tried jumpstarting it but that didn't work - a voltmeter plugged into the battery posts showed a 13.1 volt reading.

I've had the car for about 10 months and a little less than 7000 miles on the odometer -- it's fairly new.

Anyone else experience the same problems? I am thinking it's something electrical related and hopefully there will be a quick resolution to this.

Cheers.
dealer kept my car for 19 days, supposedly they reprogram gear box module during that period.
They were so determined to return the car before it hit 20 days.
still have problems. not anything catastrophic like the problem everyone on this thread experienced...but still problems
 

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I am having the same issue. 2022 AWD escape hybrid. Only 400 miles. After grocery shopping, returned to car and the error displayed “Vehicle communication network error”. Car would not start. Tow was complicated by the fact it is AWD and we could not get transmission into Neutral. Car had to be “slid” on to tow truck on “ski’s”. I hope to report back the dealer resolution to this. So far, extremely disappointed Ford refused Loaner car and charged me for the tow. iIt’s the weekend…will have to followup with these issues also on Monday. I purchased the vehicle brand new two weeks ago.
 

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Just wanted to add a post here since I ran into exactly this issue today and stumbled upon this thread, which gave me one thing to try and that ended up being the solution. 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid, SE Sport trim, 12k miles, still new and under warranty.

disconnected c1035a and c1035b connectors, checked fuses - checked ok, reconnected/secured c1035a and c1035b, issue cleared
@truck - thanks for posting the dealers comments. That helped a lot. I did the following:

0. Car will not start - driver display screen does not turn on, however the radio will turn on (by pushing the volume power button). The headlights work, but the turn signals and hazard lights do not work. Car will not shift into gear. Push-To-Start button is flashing green rapidly.
1. Turn off the car and disconnected the battery negative terminal (in the trunk, 10mm socket to loosen bolt then take it off) (side note - to get the car to turn off, make sure your foot is OFF the brake then push the "Push-To-Start" button which is flashing, see 0)
2. Removed cover from the battery junction box (front of car under hood on the right side, plastic cover near positive battery jumping terminal. Push on the middle tab on the back side and rotate the whole cover forward then lift it up)
3. Disconnected each connector (one at a time - push on the little plastic black tab, lift up on the white handle until it's oriented vertically, wiggle the connector left and right GENTLY until it starts to lift up, re-install slowly to ensure you're not going to bend any pins by gently wiggling forward and back until the white handle starts to go down on its own, then push it down the rest of the way until it clicks in to closed)
4. Repeat step 3 for the second connector.
5. Reinstall the battery junction box cover (make sure the plastic tabs on the forward side are aligned. This cover is a waterproof seal for the battery connects, important to maintain this seal)
6. Reconnect battery negative terminal in trunk
7. Start the car!

Hopefully this helps someone else out there. I am really thrilled this worked, basically I just copied what the dealer said and did a little bit of research to identify which connectors are the two listed.
 

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morning guys and girls , i just bought a 2020 ford escape hybrid and im experiencing the same. I have the Rotary shifter and the car will not start or shift into gear. The rotary shift feels stuck in place , i read the comments above and im going to try to disconnect the connectors , btw - does anyone have a reference to the link to the TSB ? ive been trying to find it and having a hard time. Thanks for your time
 

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Just wanted to add a post here since I ran into exactly this issue today and stumbled upon this thread, which gave me one thing to try and that ended up being the solution. 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid, SE Sport trim, 12k miles, still new and under warranty.


@truck - thanks for posting the dealers comments. That helped a lot. I did the following:

0. Car will not start - driver display screen does not turn on, however the radio will turn on (by pushing the volume power button). The headlights work, but the turn signals and hazard lights do not work. Car will not shift into gear. Push-To-Start button is flashing green rapidly.
1. Turn off the car and disconnected the battery negative terminal (in the trunk, 10mm socket to loosen bolt then take it off) (side note - to get the car to turn off, make sure your foot is OFF the brake then push the "Push-To-Start" button which is flashing, see 0)
2. Removed cover from the battery junction box (front of car under hood on the right side, plastic cover near positive battery jumping terminal. Push on the middle tab on the back side and rotate the whole cover forward then lift it up)
3. Disconnected each connector (one at a time - push on the little plastic black tab, lift up on the white handle until it's oriented vertically, wiggle the connector left and right GENTLY until it starts to lift up, re-install slowly to ensure you're not going to bend any pins by gently wiggling forward and back until the white handle starts to go down on its own, then push it down the rest of the way until it clicks in to closed)
4. Repeat step 3 for the second connector.
5. Reinstall the battery junction box cover (make sure the plastic tabs on the forward side are aligned. This cover is a waterproof seal for the battery connects, important to maintain this seal)
6. Reconnect battery negative terminal in trunk
7. Start the car!

Hopefully this helps someone else out there. I am really thrilled this worked, basically I just copied what the dealer said and did a little bit of research to identify which connectors are the two listed.
\\i found these two diagrams which i think should help me with the connectors , does this look right to you? a photo from your engine bay would be greatly apprecaited if you have time this morning
 

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@moonlitsouls - here are a few pics. It's the big connector on the right side of the engine bay. These pics show the lid of the box then the 2 connectors themselves. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
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