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Discussion Starter #1
hey all

a mate has just been given a cfi ea. its a 30th anniversary series 2 with a 4spd auto.

first problem is the altenator and we cleaned it up and started it and it ran fine however the altenator wasnt charging much at idle (light flickering).

but it also stalls and then wont restart - it happened to him the day before he picked it up too, it wouldnt start, and the next day it was fine.

its a new battery and it cranks fine so its not that i'm pretty sure. the person he got the car from was given a spare distributor and told that was the source of the not starting/stalling problem. my question is how do we tell if its this? it looks like an absolute bitch of a job to change the dizzy on these.

also is there some way to do a diagnostic on the ECU with it not running? if someone could explain this and point me to a list of the error codes that'd be great.

btw when it ran, it ran fine and very smooth without missing or anything and then it just cut out completely. when cranking it doesnt fire at all, just cranks and cranks.

i'm used to VL commodores so it seems to me the equivelant of the crank angle sensor is whats gone, so the computer isnt triggering the injectors at all since it's lost its referance signal.

thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #2
just checking things now.
you can hear the fuel pump when ignition is turned to on.

but there is NO spark. which kinda makes me think the dizzy is at fault.. we have a spare but it has lots of play and i dont like it so i'm not too sure if we'll put it in just yet.
 

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Phat Drift Damage Victim
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It's most likely the TFI module, very common problem especially with the CFI's for some strange reason, all you need to change is the plastic module on the side of the dizzy and not the whole dizzy itself, a new TFI module is around $90 from repco and have about a 3 year warranty on them. You'll more than likely have to take the dizzy out to change the module but it's not a real big drama being CFI.
 

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Try the TFI off the dizzy you were given first though :)
If it's not that it might be the coil, sometimes they will die when the engine gets hot and then work fine once it's cooled down again.
 

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EA Ghia
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i had the same problem on my ea, a mpefi fairmont ghia, turned out to be the coil pickup isnide the dizzy, replaced the dizzy and all is good now
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok i did the TFI diagnostic.

got power at terminals 4 and 5 with ignition on, and power at 3 while cranking.

no spark at the coil still. manually earthed pin 5 and the coil still didnt fire.

coil resistance on the two small pins was .4 (ok) and from a small to the big was 7.5k which is a little under tollerance?

going to try another coil in a couple of days and see how it goes.
 

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Getting power at the coil?
I reckon DrE is onto something there...

damn that sounded pompous :p

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry, yes 12v at the coil when ignition is on.

and DrE might be right, but shouldnt the coil still spark when H5 is earthed, regardless of the TFI/pickup?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
also i should probably mention, i did the TFI diagnostic by unplugging the plug and putting the multimeter in the front of the plug (where the pins go). not sure if thats the right way to do it or not?

i think tomorrow we'll relocate the coil to the strut tower too. putting it on the side of the motor is stupid. is there anything you can get to on these things that is easy???!!?
 
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