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About 2 weeks ago the yellow "check engine" light on my dash lights came on while I was driving. It didn't seem to affect the running condition of my pickup so I just ignored it and went about my driving.

Since the light (always on) becomes a distraction after awhile, I decided to have AutoZone check the codes (they will do it free) to see if they could tell me why the light came on.

They checked it and came up with a code of P1443 and told me something about "an auxilliary emission control.....".

Does anyone have experience with the particular code P1443?

If you can help me, I would appreciate hearing from you.
 

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I found this post on another forum. I hope it helps you. I was looking for help for the same problem with my 94 Ranger.

I found this after reading your post, so I have not tried it.



Originally posted by RegalRanger:
Less than two months ago, I purchased a used 1997 Ford Ranger XLT, Regular Cab (2.3 L I-4, 5 spd.). Shortly after the purchase, the check engine light came. I had the code read at a local auto parts store, and the code P1443 was returned. The description for the code was �Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve�. Initially, I didn�t do anything to fix the problem. The light ended up clearing itself a couple of days after it first came on. However, the light only stayed off for a few driving cycles before it came back on (and stayed on). I had the code read again, and again I got the P1443 code.

I did some research on the web and found that the problem could be the Canister Purge Assembly. This assembly connects the intake manifold to the charcoal canister and the assembly is made up of hoses, a valve and a sensor. On my 1997 Ranger, it is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver�s side (the canister is right behind the driver�s side headlight). Apparently, if there are any cracks in the hoses, or if the valve or the sensor wears out, this will cause the check engine light to come on, and return the P1443 code. After looking around on the web for a couple of days, I was lucky enough to find a few part numbers for the canister purge solenoid/flow sensor assemblies:

F57Z-9C987-AB Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 2.3L

F57Z-9C987-CA Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 3.0L

F57Z-9C87-BA Canister Purge Solenoid/Flow Sensor
Assembly - 4.0L

After trying to get the part at a few different auto parts stores, I made a trip to the dealer to order the part. It ended up costing about $65 (although, I have heard it can cost $80 - $100 depending on the exact part number that you need). It only took 5 or 10 minutes to install the part, and it was fairly simple. Initially, I started the truck and the check engine light was still on. However, the light cleared itself after a few driving cycles and it has stayed off ever since (it has been about 5 weeks and 1500 miles).

Hopefully this helps someone who had the same problems that I did. From my experience, and from what I have found in my research, if you get the P1443 code on a late 90�s Ranger, this is the way to fix it. Hopefully you will be able to use the part numbers above to order your parts (I am not sure where on the web I originally got the part numbers from, but I did use them to order the part that I needed). I believe this is a part that you can only get at a dealer, so you may not even want to waste time trying to order it from the auto parts stores. I would rate this as a fairly easy thing to replace as long as you have some knowledge about working on cars and trucks. However, if you don�t feel comfortable doing it yourself, you may want to ask for help from a friend who is knowledgeable before you spend the money to have someone else do it.
 

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I had this same problem with my 97 Ranger. It cost me $94 and yes it was a dealer only item, took all of a minute to replace. Unplug one-two wire-plug assembly and a hose connection on both ends. Replace...done. Quickest $94 bucks i ever blew, but light is out. :)
 

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Hey Folks,

They checked it and came up with a code of P1443 and told me something about "an auxilliary emission control.....".
Had the same problem recently...

Dollars to donuts it's actually the Canister Purge Control Solenoid. I found it for $36.32 at Auto Parts Giant Motorcraft part # CX-1158.

It's the part which looks like a C-Cell battery and is the first part off of the Fuel Recovery Canister inlet side which sits right behind the driver's side headlight.



It's a pretty common occurance for this part to fail over time.

Disconnect the negative battery cable (this will clear the "check engine" code). Twist gently while your pulling the hoses off of the Solenloid. Disconnect the wire running to the bottom of the Solenoid. Then just reverse the procedure for installing the new part. You might also want to change the rubber hoses while you're in there.

Also, get a fuel cap presssure check. They do fail after a while and when they do will also give you a "check engine' light.
 

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I have a 97 ranger that was experiencing the same thing. It been going on for a couple of years now. I have an emissions scanner and reset it now and then. It seems to come back on after 5 or 6 engine starts. I think I may have solved the problem for under $5. All I did was take the parts out and spray them down with some carb cleaner and replace some hose.

The part closest to the charcoal canister is the solenoid valve. I figured that, if it was intermittently sticking open or closed, something was gumming up the valve. I slowly filled up each end of the valve with carb cleaner and let it sit until it dried, repeated several times. I made sure not to spray the electrical end of the solenoid. I also did the same with the sensor. The sensor appears to be some type of air flow sensor. The sensor was the dirtiest, it took 5 or 6 soaking for it to flow clean. Since I thought it was a flow sensor, I was carefull not to spray a huge stream of carb cleaner though it. Then I replaced the vacuum hose. The hose between the valve and the charcoal canister is an odd sized hose (each end is different sized). Mine was cracked through where the valve connected. I just cut it back until I reached some good hose and added a bit of makeup length on the piece between the sensor and valve. You may have to get a replacement hose from the dealer. I then tie-wrapped the hose to the old mounting point for the valve.

I'm going on my second week with no check engine light, just in time to get it smogged. I hope this info is of use to others. Total cost was $3.00 for the carb cleaner and $1.00 for the vacuum hose.
 
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