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Hi All, I'm having problems with my 2011 MK7 2.2L 85PS Transit and I've really come stuck with it. I wondered if anyone has experienced anything similar or can help at all.

Started off with the rocker cover and injector seals being replaced, I then found the fuel rail pressure to be not matching the desired. So we changed PRV and SCV, learns done all good. Approximately 100ish miles later it developed a misfire on cylinder 3, removed all I injectors to find that cylinder 3 injector had been over fueling and had a very bulged tip. I then brought 4 recon Injectors from PF jones, all new correction factors added and pump learn done. Pilot learn failed however.

Few miles later, still having a slight hunt, it again developed a misfire this time on cylinder 2. Rang PF jones and they collected the cylinder 2 injector and took it back for testing, found it to test differently each time they did and replaced the injector for another. A few miles later, and its now got a very strange problem.

When cold, the engine ticks over at idle fine andquiet. When warm, its got a misfire and when under load is lacking of power in lower revs until I assume the boost kicks in around 1500rpm.

When on live data, the failing injector swaps between injector 1 and injector 4. Its done this for a few days now and swaps daily which one isn't firing. When looking further with the wiring diagrams we see that injector 1 and 4 share a common earth which is joined just before it enters the ECU, which is the same earth shared by the EGR. But apart from that connection were stumped.

We tried a continuity test between the earth's on each injector, and it didn't have one. Assuming broken wire, I've stripped the whole loom back to the ECU and found nothing to raise a suspect of broken wire. We created a continuity and the engine ran fine, then broke the continuity and it went back to misfire. That was the other night and when checking it the next day, the continuity is still there.

We've got an Autel and forscan on it, and both are reading the same. Since downloading and using forscan though, we've not been able to clear any codes from it. For example, if you go into pump learn status it says learned but there is a code for pump learn not done that won't clear although not present at the time. There's also codes for injectors 1,2 and 4 being restricted, in addition to an injector circuit short to ground code and a pcm de-engerised to early code. There all on historic codes that won't clear, and on forscan it states that no codes have been cleared for 11 days although we've tried multiple times.

Today after reading countless posts and information we had a hope it was the crankshaft position sensor, replaced with geniune Ford and made no difference.

We looked at live data for everything we possibly could. One thing that was reading odd was that the MAF desired was around 128 g/s at idle, whereas it was only getting 17 or 18 g/s so I can't understand what's happening there. We've took it out and cleaned it with no change. There's no codes relating to MAF.

It's a euro 4 (has no dpf) and I think it has the latest PCM software. Someone once said if it had the anti stall function then it did, which it has but I may be wrong.

It had apparently had the EGR deleted, but the EGR is still providing some figures on the live data - even when it's unplugged - although it doesn't move much. We took the bolts out to see that EGR is very sooted up, however open very slightly. What we did notice was when we unplugged the EGR, with the ignition on, the high pitched whine/noise stopped. I've read that it's self cleaning and sounds a bit like a sawing motion but this isn't, it's a long high pitched sound every time I turn the ignition on or off for about 10-15 secs after switching key off. It didn't do it at all when egr unplugged. The only common we can find is between Injectors 1,4 and EGR which is where we're seeing problems and the earth's. We're starting to think It's the ECU going bad but I don't want to fire the parts cannon at it so to speak.

The EGR connection did get covered in warm engine oil a few week back when it spat it out after having too much oil In it - spat it out the dipstick obviously right next to the connector for EGR.

Apologies for the long post but I thought it was important to get all details. We're really coming stuck here and wondered if any had any ideas at all or can shed any light at all. We're loosinh the plot with it and are £800 lighter on parts and 4 weeks down the line. Please if anyone can help I'd very much appreciate it.

Thank you.
 
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