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Classic Mustang Member
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92 Posts
First a couple of questions from a person who knows what hot is!

Does it heat up at a idle, or traffic, then cools down a little when it starts moving forward.....or does it get hot all the time regardless if it standing still or moving?

Is your 351(?) block bored out?

A/c condensor in front of the radiator?

Is the radiator inlet on the same side as the outlet (one directly above the other)?

Now on to a couple of tips & tricks to keep your cool.

Thermostat: I know I been told to use a 180d stat. The reason behind that is that the 180d will stay open once the motor reaches operating temp. However, (knowing that a Ford motor does run better at 140d - recommended) I use a 160d stat with 4 - 1/8" holes drilled thru the flange. As broadcasted from "My Classic Car" several years ago. It does help - a little.

Coolant Additives: No! I wasted $40.00 on that stuff that was guranteed to work. All I can say is most coolant additives can really work over the inside of a hose real fast. Needless to say, the hoses will rupture when you least expect it. To add to that, don't expect a whole lot of cool from any of those products.

Fans: Well, if you are running an a/c condensor out front, go with either a 6 blade stock or a 2800 cfm electric (might need to up the amps for the electric). I heard a clutch fan works good. But, I haven't investigated the probabilities on whether it will fit & work. Flex fans (the type you can shave with) are ok on the quarter mile. In traffic, forget about it. They don't really move that much air, at an idle, & flatten out at higher speeds, thus blocking (in theory) air movement across the motor. This all goes without saying you will absolutely need the fan shroud - post haste.

Carb & jetting: If by chance your motor gets hot, just running down the road, then the jetting in the carb might be too lean. A richer jetting will cause the combustion chamber temp to drop & in turn will cause a cooler running motor

Last but on least. Keep the engine in tune. A degree of advance on the timing will bump the combustion chamber temp up 20d. Going the other way, labors the motor to run & that as will causes temp problems.

These are my general "rules to keep cool" (there's more). But, I do need to have a few of the questions, I asked, answered.
 
M

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This came from a post a while back regarding someone asking your same question. I cannot vouch for the info, but I think I will try one of these in the near future!

+++++++++++++++++++++++

I replaced everything on my 289, waterpump, radiator, thermastat, hoses, belts, 3 fans with different number of blades. I still would overheat at idle within 10 minutes of running. I finally called K.A.R. auto group and explained problem. The 3 core radiator I had purchased new from a well know supplier was the size of a 2 core. I new this because I had to buy the 2 core brackets to mount the factory fan shroud. The radiator that Kar advised me to buy was almost one inch deeper and I could now put on the 3 core brackets for my shroud. I installed the new radiator from kar and idled for 20 minutes with the nose of the car in the garage. After running this long i took the cap off and no anitfreeze blew out. I then stuck a thermastat into the antifreeze and it was 190 degrees. The temp gauge showed a little udder half way. Kar has xclaimed they have cooled down a 289 bored 60 over with these rads. I have fought with my problem for 2 years and always drove the car when it was cool because I never suspected a new radiator was bad but it was. All I know is I cant believe the results. Email me if you have any questions.

Kar auto groups number is 1-800-341-5949. Ask to speak with Kevin or George. The cost of my radiator was 189.00 A little more than the other 3 cores I have seen offered but well worth the money.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++
 

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Classic Mustang Member
Joined
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92 Posts
I run a special built (copper - I do have something to say about alum.) 4 core radiator. My engine still ran like a "hot mamma" (210d). Use to, anyway. A thought, though might be a 3 core will offer better allowance of air movement through the fins. Then there is the staggered 3 core units. This allows better heat dissapation, because it allows air to go around each core efficiently.

Aluminum does dissapate heat better, than copper, when there is a mass amount of air movement through the fins (i.e. driving). I have yet to hear about one working the way it should at an idle. But, of course they were placed on some extremely modified, street engines.
 

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Mod/Vintage Mustang Member
Joined
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239 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Sorry it took me a while to respond but, to answer some of these questions:

ZoNiE said:
First a couple of questions from a person who knows what hot is!

Does it heat up at a idle, or traffic, then cools down a little when it starts moving forward.....or does it get hot all the time regardless if it standing still or moving?

" All the time, not to the point of over heating, but hot nonetheless"

Is your 351(?) block bored out?

"Not that I know of"

A/c condensor in front of the radiator?

No A/C

Is the radiator inlet on the same side as the outlet (one directly above the other)?

No.

Now on to a couple of tips & tricks to keep your cool.

Thermostat: I know I been told to use a 180d stat. The reason behind that is that the 180d will stay open once the motor reaches operating temp. However, (knowing that a Ford motor does run better at 140d - recommended) I use a 160d stat with 4 - 1/8" holes drilled thru the flange. As broadcasted from "My Classic Car" several years ago. It does help - a little.

Coolant Additives: No! I wasted $40.00 on that stuff that was guranteed to work. All I can say is most coolant additives can really work over the inside of a hose real fast. Needless to say, the hoses will rupture when you least expect it. To add to that, don't expect a whole lot of cool from any of those products.

Fans: Well, if you are running an a/c condensor out front, go with either a 6 blade stock or a 2800 cfm electric (might need to up the amps for the electric). I heard a clutch fan works good. But, I haven't investigated the probabilities on whether it will fit & work. Flex fans (the type you can shave with) are ok on the quarter mile. In traffic, forget about it. They don't really move that much air, at an idle, & flatten out at higher speeds, thus blocking (in theory) air movement across the motor. This all goes without saying you will absolutely need the fan shroud - post haste.

Carb & jetting: If by chance your motor gets hot, just running down the road, then the jetting in the carb might be too lean. A richer jetting will cause the combustion chamber temp to drop & in turn will cause a cooler running motor

Last but on least. Keep the engine in tune. A degree of advance on the timing will bump the combustion chamber temp up 20d. Going the other way, labors the motor to run & that as will causes temp problems.

These are my general "rules to keep cool" (there's more). But, I do need to have a few of the questions, I asked, answered.
Thanks for the rest of your advice as well. I will let everyone know how it turns out and what all I did.
 

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Vintage Mustang GT Member
Joined
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7 Posts
Overheating problem--Solved

I understand why some coolant additives don't work. They will do damage to the inner surfaces, and by the way, they are flammable!! All "waterwetters" work by coating the inner surfaces of your system to just make the water flow faster. However, there is a new product out, and yes, I am a distributor as of this last Monday (July 25), but the ONLY reason I am is because this stuff did wonders on my truck. 1993 Silverado, 350, 700r4 tranny. Truck has always run at 200-210 even after radiator rodding. Could not run my A/C in traffic. I added the product and the truck has not reached over 180 degrees since. My A/C is now ice cold as well, and the truck has not offered to overheat with the A/C on in traffic even once.
This product is actually endorsed by A. J. Foyt, as well as TrackSide Magazine, (TrackSide Mag says simply ("Put this stuff in your car!"), and other very reputable racing teams.
Product is totally compatible with any coolant materials copper, aluminum, etc, 100% biodegradable, and non-flammable. As opposed to other coolant additives, this product operates on "Heat Sink" technology, and actually disseminates the heat. Totally different concept than the other products.
Anyone interested can email me personally. Cost is $31.95 per quart delivered. 100% money back guarantee.
I hope it is okay to post this kind of message here. Just wanted to share some info about a product that will definitely work.
[email protected]
 
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