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a vile merchant
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714 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK having a few issues with the brakes on my EF V8, hopefully somone has some ideas.

The car has new brake pads front and rear which were put on for the roadworthy when i bought it a few weeks ago. At first i thought the pads just needed to bed-in but there has been no improvement/

Basically:

Pedal travel is long and soft (no air in the lines we've bled em countless times). Pedal rock hard when the engine is off but as soon as u start the car it almost sinks to the floor.

Car doesn't pull up very quickly and there seems to be some nose-diving when it does. Perhaps this would mean the rear brakes aren't working?

Also if I open the bonnet and 'wiggle' the master cylinder there seems to be alot of flex/movement from where the booster bolts to the firewall (we've checked the bolts they're tight). I've been told its normal for there to be some movement but on mums EL it's ALOT firmer. Perhaps the booster could be cracked where it bolts on.

baaaah anyway this is all just a big whinge session so i'll stop now!
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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6,360 Posts
I hope they took the line stopper pliers off the flex brake lines when finished? Doing the rear brakes..
Was "top quality" stuff used ?[Not K mart] By the way you have explained you sounded like you didn't want to do it but had to! For road worthy? Dealer do it? If so they'r cheap!!
CHEAP brake pads can do that ? Bendix Ultimates are not too bad,[good] can be dirty ,but you want brakes Ha?
Could be problems with master cylinder too.
On a clean road no traffic/kids put brake on hard to make them normaly skid say from 30- 40 ks then get out and check if both front and back are working,can tell by the skid marks, on the road.{Where els??} hth..
 

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Chromed Member
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1,810 Posts
pull off all the wheels and check to see that all the pads are running in the right spot on the disc nice and straight. I have seen pads put in by *cough* mechanics that are not lined up and will give crap brakes!

Also check the sliders are not siezed
 

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NZ FPV and Tickford Club
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14 Posts
I have an EL Fairmont that felt like it didnt want to stop esp in the wet. I put in the Bendix Ultimates and got much better braking efficency. Would recomend them. Also, the dusting doesnt seem to be as bad as the old cheap pads.
 

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T5 Expert Operator
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6,540 Posts
PigDog,

Being an EF owner myself i can say that the brakes aren't the best things in the world. But what i found for a cheap cost fix is change the pads to Bendix standard heaps better than the Motor craft stuff and they don't chew rotors out.

If you want further improvements consider the DBA slotted or drilled rotors. I will be moving to them soon.

About the nose dive, i'd say it be the shockies, I've found on EF-EL's shockies get soft at around 80-90k.
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
Rodo said:
I put in the Bendix Ultimates and got much better braking efficency. Would recomend them. Also, the dusting doesnt seem to be as bad as the old cheap pads.
I've put Ultimates on the EA and useful improvement in braking over standard pads, but the dust is shocking compared to the standards. Done about 2,000k and it's not getting any better. Stock rotors.
 

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Australian BA XR6 Falcon
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1,249 Posts
PigDog said:

Basically:

Pedal travel is long and soft (no air in the lines we've bled em countless times). Pedal rock hard when the engine is off but as soon as u start the car it almost sinks to the floor.

Car doesn't pull up very quickly and there seems to be some nose-diving when it does. Perhaps this would mean the rear brakes aren't working?

Also if I open the bonnet and 'wiggle' the master cylinder there seems to be alot of flex/movement from where the booster bolts to the firewall (we've checked the bolts they're tight). I've been told its normal for there to be some movement but on mums EL it's ALOT firmer. Perhaps the booster could be cracked where it bolts on.

baaaah anyway this is all just a big whinge session so i'll stop now!
The pedal action you describe with engine off/start is correct behaviour.

The nose-diving is possibly normal depending on severity, it won't necessarily be inoperative rear brakes, if the rears wern't working, you'd probably get instability under heavy braking, raise the rear of the ground, rotate a wheel and have someone hit the brake pedal, if your extra careful you could try the same thing but start then engine and put it in drive/apply brakes.

simple check for the M/C, start the engine, pop the bonnet and watch for movement of the M/C + booster as someone applies the brakes then compare it to the EL.

Kieron
 

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Currently in Brasil
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362 Posts
Hey!
I used to run Bendix Ultimate on the front and rear, and found them much much better than standard (i did put DBA cross drilled + slotted rotors on the fronts at the same time), but then i decided to try Bendix Performax, as i was told they werent much worse as far as stopping, and they lasted much longer... BUT this wasnt the case... As far as biting in go, they do that fine, but once u get past that inital stage any more pressure on the pedal seems to be useless... And ive since been told they are just metal kings and they eat away your discs, thats why the pads last longer...
Im going to put the ultimates on again very soon!
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
ghentboy said:
Hey!
I used to run Bendix Ultimate on the front and rear, and found them much much better than standard (i did put DBA cross drilled + slotted rotors on the fronts at the same time), but then i decided to try Bendix Performax, as i was told they werent much worse as far as stopping, and they lasted much longer... BUT this wasnt the case... As far as biting in go, they do that fine, but once u get past that inital stage any more pressure on the pedal seems to be useless... And ive since been told they are just metal kings and they eat away your discs, thats why the pads last longer...
Im going to put the ultimates on again very soon!
The Performax are a long life taxi-pack sort of pad and not, as the name suggests, any type of performance pad. I think they also have a pretty specific running in procedure or they don't work properly.
 

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Currently in Brasil
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362 Posts
yeah they do have a pretty strict run in procedure.. and are made to run more at temperature rahter than cold i think...
last time i believe what anyone in a spare parts shop tells me... ill stick to ultimates.. or ive heard good things about the 'green stuff' pads, or whatever they are called!
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
ghentboy said:
[Bive heard good things about the 'green stuff' pads, or whatever they are called! [/B]
I was going for the greenstuff but the Ultimates were about a third of the price so I thought I'd have a try. They're better than stock, but I wouldn't say they're brilliant. I think I might spend the extra money on the greenstuff next time, but I'd be inclined to add slotted /drilled rotors as well to get the full effect.
 

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Currently in Brasil
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362 Posts
Yeah the greenstuff ones re quite expensive.. if u dont mind me asking, how much did you pay for your ultimates?
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
ghentboy said:
Yeah the greenstuff ones re quite expensive.. if u dont mind me asking, how much did you pay for your ultimates?
About $60 a set (i.e. 120 for 4 wheels) I think, about two months two back.

Deymo car parts, Briar Hill (Eltham Greensborough area). I buy everything I can there as they're generally a useful amount cheaper than Ford, Repco and Bursons and it's the same stuff. e.g. Genuine Pedal box cost me around $170 there and I think Ford was $220 or more. Worth it if you're not too far away or going to spend a bit. Ring them for a price - don't have number but look under Deymo.
 

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Currently in Brasil
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362 Posts
ahh thats not too bad at all!
i think i paid $70 for my fronts...that was from Bevics on a customer card though.. so doesnt look all that cheap aye :)
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
ghentboy said:
ahh thats not too bad at all!
i think i paid $70 for my fronts...that was from Bevics on a customer card though.. so doesnt look all that cheap aye :)
Forgot to mention, they're open till about 4 or 4.30 Sat and Sun, which is handy as shit always happens when the parts shop is shut.
 
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