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Mazda MX6 Member
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103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 6 months ago my clutch went out.

Earlier today I had the same symptoms I had when my clutch went out 6 months ago:

The clutch would not come off the floor the usual 7 inches or so, but instead would only come only
about an inch or two off the floor after engagement. And I had to put the car in gear with 2hands and a lot of force.

When I finally managed to get home I checked the slave cylinder push rod (I extended it when I
put in my new ACT II about 6 months ago) it was fine, so I then looked at the clutch rod under
the dash and while I was under there I pulled up on the pedal. It poped back to it's regular
position and has woked flawlessly for that last couple hours of driving.

WTF happened?? Why would it do this?? I'm I ok to keep driving on it??

Thanks for any replies
 

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Resident Genius
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378 Posts
Sorry for not checking earlier!

You have air in the hydraulic system - the fix is to bleed the clutch.

Follow the clutch-bleed instructions in the manual and your pedal should be up and strong again.
 

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Mazda MX6 Member
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103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sounds easy enough!!

What would cause air to get in there in the first place??
 

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Resident Genius
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378 Posts
You lose minute amounts of fluid through leaks, and as the brake pads wear down the fluid level also drops (brake and clutch systems share the fluid for their hydraulic systems). As you add more fluid, air is drawn in the lines. Also, as the fluid heats up from repetitive brake use (like autocrossing or other racing), it boils and sometimes bubbles get created.

You need an assistant for the clutch bleed job, but it's really easy - I did mine in about 10 minutes. You need a 7 or 8mm wrench for the job - just buy one from Kragen specifically for the job - they are angled so that it makes the job easier. I think they are $7 or so.
 

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Mazda MX6 Member
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103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since I'm at school I've had to drive the car a couple times without having bled the system. Today it really acted up (Same problem couldn't get it in gear).

So I guess my car is telling me I really should do this....a few questions though:

*I looked at my fluid and it's really full (is air in the line still your diagnosis??)

*What is the wrench for?? To open the bleeder valve??

*I read through chiltons and haynes and I'm still a little confused (and since I'm at school I only want to try and put this thing up in the air once). Where is the release cylinder...on the transaxle?? Will I know it when I see it?? Same with the bleeder valve??

Dan I assume you'll be the Probe God that replies to this so thanks for the help!!
 

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Mazda MX6 Member
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103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
one more thing, I just went and tried the car again (an hour ago it wouldn't shift into reverse for anything!!) and this time it drove fine :eek:

For about 10 minutes of driving absolutely no problems.

I parked the car waited about 25 minutes took it for another drive and it was flawless again :WH:

Signs of air in the line??
 

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Resident Genius
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378 Posts
"I looked at my fluid and it's really full (is air in the line still your diagnosis??)

*What is the wrench for?? To open the bleeder valve?? "



1. Yes - the fluid level will lower when the air is flushed out.

2. Yes.



Basically, this is the process:

1) Remove rubber cap from bleeder screw. Have handy the following items: (1) clear container with new brake fluid in it (DOT 3 is what the stock Probe/MX-6 systems use). (2)hose to put on the bleeder valve - submerge the other end of the hose in the clear container BELOW the fluid line. DO NOT LET THE END OF THE HOSE COME OUT OF THE FLUID DURING CLUTCH BLEEDING, OR IT WILL DRAW AIR INTO THE SYSTEM AND YOU'LL HAVE TO START OVER. (3) wrench to open the bleeder screw.

2) Have assistant press the clutch in all the way and HOLD IT.

3) Loosen bleeder screw until you see air bubbles come out of the hose in the clear container.

4) When the air stops coming, tighten the bleeder screw.

5) Have assistant release the clutch.

6) Repeat steps 2-5 until air is no longer coming out of the system. You might have to repeat the process 6-8 times.

NOTE - on step 3, you only have to loosen it about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn until you see the bubbles come - you don't have to remove the screw completely.


You don't need to know where the release cylinder is. THe bleeder valve is on the tranny, above the rubber boot thingy by the clutch fork.

You don't need to put the car up for this. Just pop the hood, attach the hose, and you're good to go. MAke sure the fluid level cap is in place. You'll see the level drop if you had any air in the system. Make sure it is topped off to the appropriate level when you are done.

Good luck!
 
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