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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy Pilgrims,

Well, following my radiator thread I caved and went too have the old one rod cleaned and flushed. Several issues and comments came form this.

1. 60% blocked, uncleanable = new radiator, yay for me. Hopwever now I have the 'bouncing needle' syndrome. So, drilled a 2mm hole in the thermo as per forum consensus. Now takes longer to warm up and is still bouncing. Double yay for me. Any ideas?

2. The guy reckoned my block was full of scale. My surge tank is perfectly clean. Can you have a block that's full of scale, and, a perfecly clean surge tank? (yes I did have the block flushed etc in the end).

3. Tis' the season to be sideways! Man do I love it when it rains. heheheheheeeee
 

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Which radiator did you end up with ? ( 2 / 3 core ? ) and how much did it set you back ?

Heh . . rain is fun. Although its disappointing that the roard from home to work is straight :p
 

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Hehe no problem if you hold it in first ;)

As for the radiator, I went stock 2 core ($385 including block flushed properly, coolant, radiator and various cleaning solvents etc). The full story is that my car came from a deceased estate. Old guy died, car sat in garage for 12 months untouched. About a month after I got it I got the radiator split, flushed and rod cleaned. ***supposedly***

As it turns out this last time (different radiator shop) they split it apart and said that the bottom 40% was blocked solid, they couldn’t even get the rods through it. according to them the guy that my local mechanic sent it to last time must have just got the shits and put it backed together at least 20 - 30% clogged. Thus one year later it is beyond repair.

Now, a lot of people here (FF) said that the stock rad. was ample. If I've been running around for the best part of a year with no problems and, at best, 70 -80% efficiency, then I guess they were right.

I have come to the conclusion though that when my side tanks split (as it seems they eventually will) I'll have brass ones put on. Apart from this I can't see the advantages to any other mods (with my current set-up).
 

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ive had the same problem, go and buy a COLD THERMOSTAT and put that in, try and get a tridon one, that should fix the needle going up and down.
 

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flush the whole radiator system. Unplug and jam a high pressure hose in it and let it go for around 10 min. Then uplug the two heater hoses that go into the firewall, jam a hose in one and turn on, and it comes out the other. Wait till clear water starts flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1. daza_mate, do you mean the 82 degree one that I've seen mentioned here before? Where does your needle sit (also what model do you have).

2. 1LOWEA, I've just had the entire system thoroughly flushed, including those 2 crunchy thin pipes (coolant return and air bleed?) that go back to the surge tank. Anyways, the damn system is already too efficient. hehehe...unless I'm being a complete retard and missing your point...a definite possibility.
 

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P.S. I think my old thermostat was a Tridon one. When I started having the "getting a bit warm" problems I replaced it with a genuine Ford one. I think I'll chuck it back in on the weekend and see what happens.
 

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iam not sure what temperature it was set at it didnt have anything on the box it come with, i have an ea falcon and it sits about in the middle of N and O,

just get any tridon cold thermostat i only think they make one, so give that a try, and flushing out the cooling system didnt work for me the cold thermostat is what solved my problem
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The needle goes from the N to the R, then drops slightly below the N...so on so forth.

From what I've read here the fan, if stuffed, will generally seize solid, spin freely or leak fluid (or combinations thereof). Mine, with a considerable flick might go maybe 45 -90 degrees from point of release, then stops (i.e. after a second or less). It cycles on and off when sitting at the lights with aircon on (yes it is the fan and not the a/c compressor ;), and there are no signs of any fluid leakage.
 
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