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400 kg ego
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G'day all, have received a technical question via e-mail which I'd rather leave in your more experienced hands. Any advice appreciated. Here is the e-mail:

"I would like to ask you a technical question about my cooling system in my EA Ford. My car has for a short time, been having problems with overheating when driving at slow speeds in heavy traffic or coming to a complete stop at the red lights. When resuming driving at 60km/h or over, the temperature gauges drop down, perhaps because air/wind is coming in directly to the radiator. The same thing happens when the air conditioner is on or off. The last time the air conditioner has been serviced was 1.5 years ago (and at the same time, the air cond system was converted to CFC free gas) The business, Red Devil, the guys who serviced the air cond system said that there were no leaks and that the evaporator cooler might need replacing, would that have anything to do with the engine overheating?

I don't have much money and am asking you for some pointers worthwhile checking out - I have just recently flushed old coolant and put in new coolant but came to no avail to fixing the overheating problem. All I can think of is that the fan is having problems.

Hope to hear from you soon

Phil
 

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Fan, I'd say.
Spin it by hand, if it's stiff and stops within a few rotations it's fine, but if it's loose and keeps spinning, it'll be rooted.
Often you will find that a s/h fan off, say, an ED will be new enough to give you several more years of life, and as a bonus, is reasonably cheap.

Alex
 

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Thanks for the reply.

Checked the fan by hand, it is very stiff and stops as soon I spin the fan, won't stop within a few rotations - is my engine overheating because the fan is too 'stiff'?

It's not loose or keeps spinning after spinning by hand.

Phil
 

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That means it's good. I suggest in that case you have the radiator backflushed. If that doesn't work it'll be the water pump, most likely :(

Oh, cheap and easy fix - there are no leaves etc. stuck between the aircon radiator and engine radiator are there?
Also you could check the belts are tight. One cost-effective :) way to check the pump is to loosen the fan belt and see if you can wiggle the pump shaft. This will at least tell you if the bearing's good - if it is, it's likely the pump is still OK.
 

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I had initially given up trying to fix the cooling problem myself.

Took it to GoodYear a week ago to get it serviced, it cost me back $160.00, the problem was a faulty thermostat which needed replacing, and hidden leaves that were stuck between the two small top hoses above the radiator... not sure if that is hose between the aircond radiator and engine radiator. If I knew what was wrong, I could of done it myself! The leaves were not visible for me to clean out.

Cooling system is fine and engine doesn't overheat when idling in heavy traffic or at a complete stop.

If a problem like this happens to your car... get leaves out and maybe its just a faulty thermostat! but once again, could be other things like water pump, holes, cracks or leaks in some hoses or whatever.
 

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i have owned 2 ea ghias ,,, two ways to eliminate this heating problem,,,,
in the engine bay located to lhs is the coolant/water header tank,, there is a temp sender in the very front of it , has 2 wires coming out and screws onto the front of the tank go to ford dealer ask for a water temp sender ($28.00 ) or so replace , and replace air filter with hi flow filter eg K&N filter.
 

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grippin'n'rippin
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250 Posts
its a common problem on ea and cars with a clutch fan. Beacause the water pump and the fan are belt driven, they are rotating slowly when the car is idleing. This results in very poor coolant flow and radiator air flow, hence the higher temp. As soon as you step on it, the pump spins faster as does the fan forcing the air through the radiator, bringing down the temp of the coolant and therefor the engine.
Best fix - go to the wreckers, pull off the thermo fans of an ef and put them in your car. you'll never have that problem again.
 
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