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Discussion Starter #1
I have 88 ea which I replaced the motor (was running but cracked head) done all the right things and labelled wires and pipes such so they all went back to the right spot but cant get it to start. What I know is there is power to the coil but no spark at the plug, no power going to the fuel pump. What I have done is replaced the coil, dizzy, leads, plugs, all the relays near the battery, the fuel pump works I tested it with another battery. The time frame which I took to change motor was bout 2-3 months (did a bit here and there after work) Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Glen
 

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Sounds like the main wiring harness from the ECU to injectors and distributor TFI module may be unplugged. With battery disconnected use a multimeter to check for continuity by back probilf the ECU and TFI module. Buy a noid light to check the injectors are getting a signal. You can also use it to check the low tension wires on the coil (connect and crank the engine and see that it flashes).
 

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Also get an old spark plug open the gap a bit (1.5 mm total) and plug it into the distributor end of the high tention (king lead) from the coil; it should spark when you crank the engine if the coil is OK. Next check the TFI module - check the resistance per here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html - they are the same on the e series TFI module. Also remember the TFI module needs heatsink paste (Unick from Disk Smith or similar) on the base that contact the distributor and also in the socket on the TFI module. I assume you have cranked the engine with the distributor cap off to ensure the dizzy gear is not stripped and it is turning. Also try adding 20 litres or so of some fresh fuel - old fuel makes a car where the timing is not yet perfect that very much harder to start.
 

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Also check the ECU earth in the passenger side footwell is good and firm (the screw hole can open up and lose the earth connection).
 

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Also check the battery to engine earth and engine to body earth (under the car just forward of the passenger side footwell).
 

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Did you have the battery disconnected? Check to see if you've left off an earth wire, they can drop down below the battery & you may have missed one.
 

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Am I missing something in your first post? Why did you swap the whole motor if only the head was cracked? Surely a replacement head would have sufficed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ghia5L said:
Am I missing something in your first post? Why did you swap the whole motor if only the head was cracked? Surely a replacement head would have sufficed.

Was cheaper to buy whole secondhand motor than to buy a new head! Thinking of the money side of it helps keep cost down, brought whole car for 300, motor for 300, cheap car!
 

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emt0149 said:
Was cheaper to buy whole secondhand motor than to buy a new head! Thinking of the money side of it helps keep cost down, brought whole car for 300, motor for 300, cheap car!
Ahh ok, fair enough ;) EF heads can be had for a tad over $200, but then you lose a bit of compression with them when fitted to a 3.9 motor.

$300 for a complete motor is good though!

Anyluck with the faultfinding?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ghia5L said:
Ahh ok, fair enough ;) EF heads can be had for a tad over $200, but then you lose a bit of compression with them when fitted to a 3.9 motor.

$300 for a complete motor is good though!

Anyluck with the faultfinding?
Still no luck have tried all the suggested but nothing. May have to visit lecky cause this is really stuffing me!
 

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G'day,
was watching this with interest.

The easiest one. Fuel pump. Ok you said the pump works....tested ok. In start mode the pump will only run for a second or so, just to pressurise the fuel system. Set up a test light at the pump of the wiring and have a helper turn on the ignition. You should get a short period illuminated. If this tests ok, then this ain't your problem.

From what you have, said, you biggest issue is no spark. Likely you broke the little contact inside the distributor cap? in the centre for the coil input. These are carbon and relativley fragile. It may be as simple as the dist cap hasn't seated properly. Have you tested power TO the coil?

Another issue may be the module on the side of the dizzy. Not likely tho. They do crap out, but normally only show it when hot...once cool they go again for 5 minutes.

Cheers
Jas
 
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