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Discussion Starter #1
I have an XP falcon sedan complete with four stud drums all round and I want to upgrade to front discs. I was told that XR Stub axles and disc brakes bolt straight in. Does anyone know if that is true or will there be problems with the conversion (i think it's called bump steer)?

I also have a tuff bored out 221 bottom end and a 2V head ready to go on, what carb or carbies would people recomend (I have a standard 2 Barrel ford carby that needs to be reconditioned)? Has anyone got extractors on a 221 or 250 with a 2V head in an XK-XP? No ones seems to know if there are any off the shelf available. Sorry for all the questions by you guys seem to really know your stuff.
 

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kickerinthegutsbarry
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Don't know about "bump steer" but if you're going to update your brakes to disc's dont bother with early stubs, go straight to late xb or later, as the xr-t's run solid disc rotors and the xw- early xb have smaller wheel bearings and are more expensive to replace.
As for the carb on you're 2v, a 350 holley should be as good as anything, if maybey a little thirsty.
 

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walking power
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HSV.ETA said:
I also have a tuff bored out 221 bottom end and a 2V head ready to go on, what carb or carbies would people recomend (I have a standard 2 Barrel ford carby that needs to be reconditioned)?
I had a 500 holley when i had this set up in my XW but my head was ported and polished and i had a big cam, so a 350 should be perfect.
 

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Ford Appreciation Society
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If it was just discs you wanted, you can get 4 stud XP discs.... Personally, I wouldn't, but they are out there.
 

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kickerinthegutsbarry
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EBXR said:
If it was just discs you wanted, you can get 4 stud XP discs.... Personally, I wouldn't, but they are out there.
I may be wrong........but I thought xp's had 5 stud wheels if they had disc brakes (all utes and vans had 5 stud)?
 

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Questions are good you learn stuff!
Unless your restoring your Xp dont waste your time using Xp parts as you will get better parts for less money using later model components such as Xc stubs, calipers, disks and a Vacume booster and Dual circuit master cylinder and 14" rims.These are easy to source and cheaper to service You will have to sort out the stud pattern on the diff Which will only take more power for so long.
I too was concerned with bump steer using Xc parts but it was a not really a issue with the shelby modification to the top suspension arm and a non spec wheel alignment .I reckon the stopping power and inproved cornering outways the only negative ive noticed which is a lightness in the steering at high speed. But this could come down to the Xc power steering thats also been fitted.
RRS which Raptor is talking about if You have the money also sell a bump steer correction kit which moves your inner tie rods into the the correct position to the outer tierod point on the stub axel.
Cant help with the 2v head swap though but if your planning on that using a 2V head the 4.1 engine its attached to Cause you cant beat cubic inches.I doubt any one make an off the shelf headers any more .When i bought my first Xm i threw an alloy head crossflow and C4 into it,cost me $200 dollars to get the drive shaft sorted and T bar shifter and Xc throttle pedal and i was rocketing down the road with really under powered drum brakes. Really and I mean really sort out the brakes before messing around with more power with these early falcons!!

Have you checked out www.xpfalcon.kicks-ass.net as it is an awsome site and has more infomation you could imagine
 

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apolloxbgt said:
I may be wrong........but I thought xp's had 5 stud wheels if they had disc brakes (all utes and vans had 5 stud)?
Yup - utes and vans had 5 stud wheels, but sedans, wagons and coupes had the 4 stud wheels. I've only ever seen disc brakes from a sedan, and that was 4 stud...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for the info, I already have a five stud diff at home (don't know what its from it has a 3.5 ratio and is a single wheeler) and a set of ford 14inch 5 spoke mags so thats not a problem. 302XM What do you mean by a "shelby modification to the top suspension arm"? I would prefer to use later model parts so the XC parts sounds good. Do you know if the XC parts are the same as XD and E's because these are even cheaper and easier to source, and will they bolt into an XP?
 

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I wrote a big post yesterday but my computer crashed but if you want info on the shelby mod go to this site he goes through the whole conversion on a US 64 falcon which shares the same suspension as the Australian models.
http://www.joesfalcon.com/frntsusp/susp1.html
Its requires redrilling the mounting holes for the top suspension arm 1" lower and 1/5" back to give the car better cornering grip at speed Carrol Shelby Did it to the Shelby Mustang which was based on Falcon Platform.
Xw-Xf brakes will work but require a sleave which goes ove the tie rod end depending on which model you use .There a 3 types ive been told.
 

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HSV.ETA - If your after the shelby mod template, I have a copy of it in one of my mustang books. I can fax you a copy if you like.
 

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i have xe front disc`s on my `p. no problems with bump steer at all, i think the secret is in lowering the car.
If you want any info on the 2v swap, pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the info, I will go looking for some XE or XF (will they fit too?) front brakes and other bits and pieces. Should I also get the matching master cylinder and booster, and can they be made to work on my XP as well, or will I have to modify the brake pedal assembly of / and any other thing?
 

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I used xe because of the much more compact calipers. the master cylinder you will want is off an xt falcon, it will bolt up to firewall on the `p then you will have to play with the length of the pushrod then, this will then give you dual circuit brake system required in QLD when installing any motor bigger than 200ci. The booster is a remote type vh44 and can still be bought off brake reconditioners or better still off the xt you just robbed for the master cylinder.
The 2v fits no problems, i found i had to slightly raise the engine to clear the draglink arc when lock to lock, also installing a cable type accelerator pedal will make life easier. The extractors on mine, i unbolted my 170ci, pulled the extractors aside, put the 2v in and bolted them back up no worries. Are you putting a auto or manual in it??
Hint: the 2v intake gaskets can still be bought off Ford, much better quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks for that info i'll go and have a look for the XE parts next time i go to the wreakers. Is the master cylinder from the XT the one with two seperate containers for the brake fluid? Hopefully because I think i've got one here somewhere. The car has a borg warner 35 auto in it at the moment but i intend on changing that to a four speed in the near future as well as change the standard XP diff. What carb are you running the standard ford 2 barrel or a holley or something else?
 

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yes the twin reservoir cylinder version is the one you want. i have used a chrysler centura diff, falcon lsd centre and vl 3.45 gears. carby used is a 600dp square bore holley, i had tried a 456vac sec but found i had too many flat spots, 600dp is shweet mate, chirps 1-2-3. love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have you used the standard intake manifold and an adaptor to fit the 4 barrel? Are you running a manual gear box or an auto (manual i assume if it will churp into 3rd)? I have heard about the centura diff conversion, how hard is it to fit? Sorry for all the questions but it sounds like you have one tuff XP. Any quarter mile times or dyno figures?
 

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i used the standard manifold with a 4barrell adapter on top. i cut the bridge thing out between the two holes on the standard manifold then used a flap wheel in a die grinder to make a smooth type bowl thing from the adapter to the manifold.
whats your email i`ll send some pics
 

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