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Discussion Starter #1
In the past 3 weeks, a friends normally reliable standard EB Falcon GL (auto, 3.9l EFI (not MP), petrol, travelled 160k km) engine has stopped, without any signs of a problem, 3 times while travelling normally at highway speeds (80 to 110 km/hr), in the past 1500km. On two of these occasions I was present, so upon pulling over and immediately trying to restart the engine it turned over normally but refused to start and this repeated again after waiting for several minutes. However after 10 to 15 minutes, the car started normally and proceeded without problems. (on the other occasion the driver did not try to start the engine, except immediatley after stopping when it wouldnt start, so then waited until the service technician arrived about 1 hour later, when it also started normally)

Unfortunately the road service technician we called was not able to arrive in that critical 10-15 minute period, and seems unlikely ever to. His advice was that the fault was the "ECU chip", or a faulty fuel pump which (perhaps overheats and stops?).

The problem has so far only happened on hot (30 to 35C) days (air conditioner was not running as its comprresor is inefficient and needs replacing), on longer distance highway driving (not around suburbs), but this may be only because this has been most its environment since the problem first occurred. About one week before the problem first started, the car had a regular 10k km service and CD player installed by reputable mechanics. Petrol tank was between about 1/4 and 3/4 full for all 3 faults.

I am interested in:
1. what may be the cause of this problem;
2. what tests I can do, to identify or eliminate possible causes, either now or more particularly if it happens again (given a mechanic is not likely to be available in the 10-15 minute fault period). I have a digital multimeter and a few tools and can therefore check some electrical items.

thanking you in anticipation of assistance

rnm
 

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BA'o'Matic 100% working.
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Ignition coil ?
 

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Does it stop dead or cough and fart a bit before it stops?

First one could be coil or second one possible vapour lock, although that is pretty rare these days.

cheers
 

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rnm, had this exact same problem not too long ago at all. Turned out to be the little module that drives the distributor. One minute I'm driving, next minute, DEAD. Pull over, car cools down, try starting again and voila, drive a few kilometers, car DEAD again. Eventually it just died entirely. My mechanic simply went to Repco and bought the module, a Bosch brand, installed it and she fired up a treat.

Now, whilst this could be the cause, I'm not saying it is as the module was around $90 if I remember correctly and took a few tricky hours to remove the old one and install the new one.

BTW, I had RACV called out when it happened, there was petrol being injected when trying to crank it over but NO spark. That was the sign. The engine was cranking no problems. Also check to see if you can hear the petrol pump fire up in the back when you click over the keys without starting the car.

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Steve
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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Yep all the above check fuses in correctly the fuel Relay under your header tank..The colour may change but mine was green.. Let us know how you go...Check leads and cap..Coils can be a pita..
 

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Same prob with my old EB, it was never cured, didnt matter whether hot/cold cruise/accelerate idling, it just died but fired up again almost straight away.

A mechanic tried plugs, leads, dizzy module, ignition switch, map sensor etc.

Car was written off in recent hail so i never got to the bottom of it, but i know someone else who is having an identical problem.

Fuel pump was next thing to try but it would be interesting to know what it was
 

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Check/change the fuel cap. It has a two way pressure valve that allows fuel to escape on hot days as it expands (espcially if the evaporator line is kinked) and air to enter the tank as fuel is used. If it does allow fuel to enter the tank the car will stop as the pump can't cope. If faulty the usually only cause a problem when it's hot and the valve is opening and closing. Do you hear air entering or leaving when you unscrew the fuel cap on a hot day. If so that's a good sign the valve isn't working.
 

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Australian Falcon Member
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It sounds like classic symptoms of Ignition Module (TFI) - keep in mind when getting it replaced to specify that you want a BOSCH module (there's a cheap alternative that is apparently crap) - and also, if the module is replaced then the Hall Effect device in the dizzy should also be changed. The whole job should not take a competent auto electrician (or even a motor mechanic for that matter) any more than 1.5 hours at the absolute most - it should be much more like an hour.

Module should be something like $80 but I'm not sure what the Hall Effect gizmo will cost (it shouldn't be as much as the module).
 

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EB wagon
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932 Posts
Hi guys, ive been reading into these TFI problems abit lately as my car is showing symptoms of this problem. Ive read that if the TFI is faulty, the car should cut out!
My car isnt cutting out tho. Its running very rough and i cant place my finger on the problem. Ive changed everything in the ignition system except the distributor and TFI.
Could this still be what the problem is?? Its missfiring very badly now. especially under load..

Thanks

Brent
 

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EB wagon
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932 Posts
Thats what i thought mate, but there is no code 22 on the ECU test. Im getting code 14 which is an erratic PIP signal.

Brent
 

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Borrow a dizzy guys - TFI modules are too dear to be changing at random ;)
It's easy enough to change, just undo two screws, slide the old TFI down and the new one up.


Alex
 

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EB wagon
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932 Posts
Hmmm, it seems you could be right simon! I checked the ECU codes again and the code is actually a code 41, not 14! 41 is O2 signal high... could be map then?

Brent
 

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Australian ED XR6 Member
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Could be just about any of the points previously discussed.
How do I know????
BEEN THERE DONE THAT, (got a healthy shelf full of spares to prove it)
Changed almost everything except the ECU.
Eventually turned out to be a faulty connection between the hall effects sensor & the TFI module in my case, which I only discovered upon pulling old distributor down after replacing it with replacement unit.
Let us know how you go with it, I'm sure that others here would like to learn from your experiences when you finally do get it fixed.
 

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pR()rN_*
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Ok so when this happens again do the following:
Start the car with the bonnet open and listen for the normal clicking of the injectors this tells you the ecu is firing the injectors ok.
when you turn the key when it's hot do you hear a zzzzzzz click from the rear of the car this shows your fuel pump is ok.
Then check for spark at the lead on no 1 spark plug. If no spark then check the spark from the coil to the dizzy It should throw a long strong spark.
(To get at the coil remove the airbox it's a bitch though!)

I'd say it's your coil as I had mine die 2 days ago (thankfully I had a spare one at home so I just got my dad to drive over and get it and away!)

These steps are handy any time a car fails to start.
 

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EB wagon
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932 Posts
Hey simon, it wasnt the map. Tried one and still the same. I think i might have a dead injector... gonna check it out..

Brent
 
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