[Mightymouse]

I have an 1995 EF Falcon Classic EFI with coil pack ignition.
Unlock car with Smartlock remote or key. Insert key into ignition barrel. Turn key thru step 1 and attempt start. Starter motor makes a relay click. No start.
If i leave key at step one for a few minutes. I hear an audible click all by itself. It will then start ok. It does this more often than not. Do i have a starter relay issue. Faulty smartlock module. Leaky capacitor that causes smartlock failure or something else?

 

[Aussiblue]

Is Smartlock flashing a code in the run position? Is the internal roof courtesy light globe OK and of correct wattage? Swap ignition relay in engine bay with another and ensure pins and socket are clean - does that fix the problem? Is centre dash earth sound?

 

[Mightymouse]

Is Smartlock flashing a code in the run position? Is the internal roof courtesy light globe OK and of correct wattage? Swap ignition relay in engine bay with another and ensure pins and socket are clean - does that fix the problem? Is centre dash earth sound?

Do you mean if ignition on accesories or if i engage the starter on ignition, do i see a smartlock error. I see the smartlock light flashing.
Interesting fact, some months before my son had removed dashbiard factory radio tape deck. Had all the wiring hanging out. My mechanic put all the wiring back in the dash area. We notice air con heating switch was not working intermittantly. That issue seem to go away. You suggestion regarding the dash earthing may have some merit. How does on ensure that is ok. I do have a multimeter?
Cheers

 

[Aussiblue]

Just under the screw at each corner of the dash near the windscreen (next to those speaker grills) and slide the panel off (towards the rear of the car) then you see a bolt near the windscreen at the centre (almost directly below the rear vision mirror) this will have 2 earth wires under it with ring terminals; ensure this bolt is tight. You cam use your multimeter to check that the relay sockets in the fuse box are earthed but this is not a foolproof way as a loose earth bolt will mean you have an earth but a very poor and intermittent earth.

To get the Smartlock codes turn the key to the run (final) position and count the flashes of the Smartlock warning light (0, 2,3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 flashes). if you get a code it's likely the BEM has a dry joint.

 

[Aussiblue]

Have you checked that ignition/starter relay - the one closest to the cabin under the black cover near the battery? You can start by just swapping it with one of the other relays (so you may get another fault by doing this - i.e. if you swap with fuel pump relay it mays start then die). The grey one to the left of the one circled here is the starter relay:

It sounds as though the relay may be taking a while to switch. Try jumping the relay socket with the key in run position (gear in neutral) and see if it starts immediately then. Aside from normal relay failures these sockets often get spilt coolant that corrodes the sockets making for poor contact so a regular spray with contact cleaner lubricant is a good idea.

 

[Mightymouse]

turned key to step 1 and then attempted a start.
smartlock light in dash flashes 4 times in steps of 3 and stays on.

flash, flash flash,flash ........flash, flash flash,flash.........flash, flash flash,flash

then stays on.

Will get a relay switch and test 60amp 32volt ignition relay
Cheers

 

[Aussiblue]

BEM Smartlock Code 4 caused by:
a) Broken connection between lock assembly and BEM module;
b) Input Output Circuit on lock assembly failed;
c) Failed power supply to lock assembly; or
d) Dry joint in BEM.

Check for continuity between pin 2 of ignition switch and pin A20 of BEM
Check for continuity between pin 4 of ignition switch and pin A5 of BEM
Check bottom of ignition switch assembly is not coming apart. See http://www.fordmods.com/ecu-fuel-system-eec-f21/my-ef-ignition-switch-has-fallen-apart-help-t86300.html
Resolder all relays in BEM. See http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=26

 

[Colin Aitken]

You Look online & Expect the INFORMATION TO BE CORRECT but you find it's Often NOT & RESULTS IN FURTHER PROBLEMS such as the RELAYS you Quoted the '3RD AS THE STARTER RELAY' but thats WRONG!!
1ST RELAY is the *HORN*
2ND RELAY is the *HIGH BEAM*
3RD RELAY is the *HEAD LAMP*
4TH RELAY is the ***STARTER***
Which wouldn't have been Necessary had the STEREO WIRING that is put up as CORRECT THATS ALSO WRONG as the the COLOUR of the **CONSTANT BATTERY POWER was BLACK/PINK STRIPE Not the GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE** as have STATED so this is a Warning to all USERS to **CHECK that any information is CORRECT** before assuming that it is!!!
I Came Here because I Couldn't find my WORKSHOP MANUAL & it took 2 DAYS to find it & Now my CAR WON'T START because your INFORMATION WAS WRONG so I SHORTED OUT THE RELAY & spend all day SWAPPING OUT THE WRONG RELAY instead of the STARTER I was SWAPPING OUT HEAD LAMP !!

 

[Aussiblue]

You Quoted the '3RD AS THE STARTER RELAY'

Sorry but "No"; you should read more carefully I correctly said:

The grey one to the left of the one circled here is the starter relay

Which is indeed the 4th relay from the front. I never referred to a relay using the order 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th.

To make it clear I also said:

Have you checked that ignition/starter relay - the one closest to the cabin under the black cover near the battery?

I was using someone else's picture from the Internet that had another relay circled and it appears based on that and without reading any of the associated text you have jumped to a false conclusion.

I agree this would have been a better Internet image for me to use but it was not available at the time:

 

[Aussiblue]

STEREO WIRING that is put up as CORRECT THATS ALSO WRONG

Where's this; a URL link please?