[AussieFX]

Hi guys, would apprecaite any help you may have as Im just about ready to give up on this one.

There heater will only blow cold air whilst operating and the climate control electrics operate normally as they have in the past.


What I have checked :

- Checked the Heator core and there are no blockages
- Checked water pressure at inlet and outlet of heater core whilst revving the engine.
- Checked the tap on the inlet to the heater core, checked OK.
- Checked the climate control for error messages and none were displayed.
- Engine temperature up to spec as I think the blower water temperature is (hand test on blower hoses).

For the life of me, I cannot understand why there is no hot air when the fan is operating normally. Unless someone can tell me that there is a bypass alongside the heater core or something like that, I cannot understand why this bugger dont work.

I am a electronics technican if that helps and have had previous experience with blower motors failing and blocked heater cores etc, but nothing like this crap.

Jerry

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

You could have a faulty blender motor which isn't moving the door. The first thing to try is a reset of the climate control computer. I can't remember the exact buttons you have to press though. I think you turn the ignition on and press mode and off at the same time. It tells you in the manual how to do it...

Hope this helps, coz those motors are a pain to change...

 

[batbo6]

You could have a faulty blender motor which isn't moving the door. The first thing to try is a reset of the climate control computer. I can't remember the exact buttons you have to press though. I think you turn the ignition on and press mode and off at the same time. It tells you in the manual how to do it...

Hope this helps, coz those motors are a pain to change...

I think rather than the blend door motor, it is more likely the blend door itself. They have a nasty habit of breaking the lever off at the top of the door (as it connects to the motor)
Jase is correct, you should do a reset/self test.
Its been a long time since I diagnosed and actually replaced a blend door so I cant remember exactly what the test is.
:thumbup: hang on, just remembered
You need to do the self test, display unit will show a blend door motor fault code (because there is no load at the end of the motor travel because the arm is broken off the blend door)
Should be able to hear the blend door motor running during the test still.

good luck. Sh*t of a job to replace though!

ByTheWay, you didnt mention whether or not you checked the heater tap for vacuum supply when the heater is on?? and if it has vacuum, is the heater tap actually opening when it needs to???

 

[AussieFX]

Thanks guys for the reply's.
I have done the reset/check for fault test and everything came up a-ok.
I have also checked the tap on the inlet for vacuum etc. I have even manual operated the tap just in case the vaccum supply was at fault or even the tap for that matter.

Is there anyway I can check that the door is opening without the code fault appearing?
Can I remove the resistor module to at least visually check for the doors operation??
Thanks

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

Aussie, when you do mode/off reset all the display should come up and you might be able to hear the door moving then (if it's moving) coz it checks the operation of the door during the test. As for checking the doors operation, you cant see it without pulling the dash forward as it sits right on top of the heater box left of the centre of the car. To change you then have to remove the heater box.

Are the two hoses at the firewall hot??? If they are and the reset didn't fix it, then it may be as mbrown suggested with the broken door. If it is broken then it may not come up with error code as the motor will still be able to operate normally...

 

[AussieFX]

Aussie, when you do mode/off reset all the display should come up and you might be able to hear the door moving then (if it's moving) coz it checks the operation of the door during the test. As for checking the doors operation, you cant see it without pulling the dash forward as it sits right on top of the heater box left of the centre of the car. To change you then have to remove the heater box.

Are the two hoses at the firewall hot??? If they are and the reset didn't fix it, then it may be as mbrown suggested with the broken door. If it is broken then it may not come up with error code as the motor will still be able to operate normally...

Yep, both inlet and outlet hoses are 'hot' and when you rev the car up you cannot bend the hoses due to increased water pressure which suggests that there is plenty of water flowing through the heater core.
I will do the test again and hear for the flap opening and closing.
It really does sound like my problem may be this flap.

If the flap does not open, then will the blower on blow cold air from outside? This would certainly explain why the cabin remains damn cold at the moment.

By the way, the 'AussieFX'..... I own a lowered ford probe with the American FX kit which I imported and 18" TSW VX1.

Thanks for the feedback, I might be closer to isolating the problem......

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

Aussie, if the flap isn't moving that just means it wont switch from hot to cold. There's another flap on left of the heater to control fresh/recirc which you should be able to select with the controls...

 

[AussieFX]

Aussie, if the flap isn't moving that just means it wont switch from hot to cold. There's another flap on left of the heater to control fresh/recirc which you should be able to select with the controls...

Sorry, Im confused again.
If the main flap is not fuctioning, then this would cause the problem I have. ie no hot air being distributed within the cabin??

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

yes as it wont allow any air from the heater core...

 

[AussieFX]

Thanks for all your help guys !!
I did the climate control mode/off test and it does display
'E2' which Im told is the 'blender' motor.
Seems the whole dash needs to come out.
Ford will charge me $80 hour X 5/6 hours plus the part.
I think I will do the install myself.

Anyone know of any cheap workshop manuals for the EL. Best price I have so far is $200 from Campbelfield (Ford) in Melbourne.
Cheers

 

[botch]

quik fix.....sometimes....

Sometimes, and id underline that if i knew how, you can reset the system by doing the self test 3 times..occasionaly the ecu's get a glitch in them and by resetting like this will make them work (sometimes forever, sometimes not)..Might be worth a try if you cant afford the $$$ yet.

PM me if you want to know how to pull the dash out, or I can scan the pages out of my book.

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

Re: quik fix.....sometimes....

Sometimes, and id underline that if i knew how, you can reset the system by doing the self test 3 times..occasionaly the ecu's get a glitch in them and by resetting like this will make them work (sometimes forever, sometimes not)..Might be worth a try if you cant afford the $$$ yet.

PM me if you want to know how to pull the dash out, or I can scan the pages out of my book.

Yes, the control module will remember the fault codes, even with battery disconnected. Doing it three times will clear the NVRAM in the processor. I have never had to do this though. I would definately try it though if it might save you some time and few dollars...

 

[AussieFX]

Read the codes 3 times plus more for luck and it still read 'E2' on the display.
I would really appreciate the pages from the workshop manual regarding 'removal of dash'.
Cheers

 

[EA S]

Anyone know of any cheap workshop manuals for the EL. Best price I have so far is $200 from Campbelfield (Ford) in Melbourne.
Cheers

Call David Evans at Motor Book World, 1013 Burke Road, Camberwell, 3124, tel 9813 2644, e-mail [email protected]. Don't know about EL manual, but I got brand new factory EA manual recently for under $90. David's got or can get most things you want in way of current and past factory and aftermarket books, magazines, performance and technical stuff, marque specific stuff, and also odds and ends like owner's manuals. He's also a nice bloke and knows a fair bit about cars.

You probably already know this, but Gregory's are cheaper but far less comprehensive and I haven't always found them to be that accurate or useful, the same as Haynes aren't always reliable on other cars. Got a Gregory's on my wife's Pulsar and instructions it gave on a recent simple but awkward job required dismantling half the bloody car in a lot of unnecessary steps when all I had to do was remove the intake manifold and attachments as unit. My way took about half an hour and theirs would have taken half a day.

 

[botch]

Read the codes 3 times plus more for luck and it still read 'E2' on the display.
I would really appreciate the pages from the workshop manual regarding 'removal of dash'.
Cheers

consider it done......just give me a few days.:nuts: :nuts:

 

[Kieron]

Read the codes 3 times plus more for luck and it still read 'E2' on the display.
I would really appreciate the pages from the workshop manual regarding 'removal of dash'.
Cheers

The Gregories manual is all you need to remove the dash, (I used it to replace the A/C Evap on my EF) just borrow it from the library.

It took me about 6 hours to R/R the Evap, it should be quicker for you as you can get to the blend door motor without removing the heater box.

2 things you will need is a 90 degree Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws along the top of the dash panel (directly below the windscreen) and a Torx drive to remove the steering wheel, the size is not in a standard Torx set, I had to buy one from a specialist tool place, its a 50 or 55mm job from memory.

Kieron

 

[Jase_ELXR8]

The Gregories manual is all you need to remove the dash, (I used it to replace the A/C Evap on my EF) just borrow it from the library.

It took me about 6 hours to R/R the Evap, it should be quicker for you as you can get to the blend door motor without removing the heater box.

2 things you will need is a 90 degree Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws along the top of the dash panel (directly below the windscreen) and a Torx drive to remove the steering wheel, the size is not in a standard Torx set, I had to buy one from a specialist tool place, its a 50 or 55mm job from memory.

Kieron

You wont have to remove the wheel, you just drop the column and sit it on the seat... You might have to cut some of the insulation on top of the motor as its a tight fit and hard to get the back screws...

 

[Kieron]

You wont have to remove the wheel, you just drop the column and sit it on the seat... You might have to cut some of the insulation on top of the motor as its a tight fit and hard to get the back screws...

You might be right, but in my case, I couldn't get the steering wheel low enough to pull the dash foward and out of the car (had to remove it from the passenger side due to the steering column), maybe pulling the steering wheel foward and lower on the adjuster will give enough clearance?

Kieron

 

[botch]

IMPORTANT - READ THIS FIRST

Under no cirumstances lower the column all the way to the floor.

Best to rest it (with wheel attached), on the drivers seat.

If you lower it any further it will DESTROY the bush on the lower steering column and make it very hard to turn corners, as the wheel will bind up.

best of luck. do you still need pics from book?

 

[XR8220]

Go with what botch says there, the lower bush on the steering column is very easily damaged. Anything much more that what the tilt adjustment allows would be asking for trouble.

Have had to pull dash forward on the EB to get at the top bolts on the pedal box (clutch pivot tore away). Not real difficult but takes a bit of time. Full day to get the pedal box out, welded and back in.


Good luck