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Blue Blood
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I'm looking for common things that can be done for an EL XR6 to boost naturally aspirated performance. Whats best for this suckers? i've read threads like use the EL XR8 snorkle, and such. But what about real performance improvements? I'd like to see about 220-240hp at the rears with a nice torque improvement as well. Happy to spend a few $$$$ to get good reliable power as this car will become a bit of a weekend racer for me. So i'm happy to punt it around stock until something blows up (gearbox, diff whatever might happen) and then replace it with quality componentry.

But focusing on the engine is the best thing to look at heads and cam's? with a chip tune (not forgetting intake and exhaust mods too). It will be run permanently on optimax or BP ultimate. If you have a car producing such power, what have you had done to it (if you don't mind sharing).

Also i'm in Melbourne so going to Herrod Motorsport isn't out of the question but i'd like to get an idea of the work involved and perhaps cost of other vendors.
 

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Came, Headwork, sports exhaust, Intake, ECU should get u to 130 to 140 kW at treads, however to get 220 HP easily and "cheaply" i would say get a small turbo (TO3), dont bother with intercooler, straight plumbing and u will hit those figures easily.
 

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boosted sleeper
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yeah with that required output & beyond at the treads your gonna want forced induction. For N/A performance Jim Mock Motorsport in Melbourne do kits up to 180-190kw at wheels (240hp+). They have a Dev5a kit which will set you back something like 6k, but the beauty about these kits is that they are proven and dynoed and are reliable upgrades to any 4.0 ford.

www.jimmockmotorsport.com
 

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The most driveable option would be to turbocharge the car. To get that power level NA would sacrifice most of your bottom end torque.

You should be able to turbocharge the car with a combination of new, rebuild, and 2nd hand components for $8000 or less. Mercury Motorsports are currently doing a complete brand new 600x300x75 intercooler for $550. gm dstroya I think can make a steam pipe turbo manifold for ~$800. If you look around you can get a rebuilt 60-1 turbo for $1300. Get the motor rebuilt with a ACL RACE kit for $2000 including labour. Port the head, $500. Custom ground surecam for $240. Aftermarket ecu for $1500 plus tune, ~$500. Shift kit the tranny, there's heaps of info on the forums. Install some form of locker or spool in the diff ~$900.

This turbo combo will do 300rwhp easy and be heaps more driveable down low. This turbo will start to max out at about 380rwhp. You don't need the cam and head porting but these will help to make power easier. If you can do most of the work yourself you could knock about $2-3000 of costs.
 

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RIP Sox.....
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not ford -
Whilst I do agree turboing is the way to go if very high power is required, mine however didn't lose any bottom end torque at all. It produces 215rwhp NA, idles like a pussy cat, and doesn't get cranky when hot.

Rick.
 

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Thats excellent, generally to exceed 1hp/cu it is normally expected to have some low speed torque loss. Up to this point if done properly there should be none. JMM have obvioulsy done their homework.
 

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boosted sleeper
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bear in mind, ian is only asking for 220-240rwhp and N/A as a weekend weapon!
 

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I have a EL XR6.

Exhaust= 2.5inch stainless with AU3 cat and a Magnaflow muffler, Pacemaker extractors

Intake=SS induction, KnN filter, 3inch pipe from Air box to TB

Head=Stg 3 crow cam, ported/polished, 9.8 comp, hd springs, 7mm valves, thin carbon fiber gasket ect....

ECU= chiptourque chip, upgrading to a XEDE when they come out.

Goes well, not sure on out put yet due to computer not liking all these mods, but will dyno/drag soon.
 

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Blue Blood
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Discussion Starter #10
blueoval said:
bear in mind, ian is only asking for 220-240rwhp and N/A as a weekend weapon!
Exactly! Not after a monster dyno/quarter miler - well balanced racer.

Also like to keep get the weight down - hopefully under 1500kg (native weight of 1575kg or something).
 

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Blue Blood
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Discussion Starter #11
blueoval said:
yeah with that required output & beyond at the treads your gonna want forced induction. For N/A performance Jim Mock Motorsport in Melbourne do kits up to 180-190kw at wheels (240hp+). They have a Dev5a kit which will set you back something like 6k, but the beauty about these kits is that they are proven and dynoed and are reliable upgrades to any 4.0 ford.

www.jimmockmotorsport.com

I wasn't sure if JMM was still "the goods" I thought he disappeared into oblivion?!

Oh well the Dev5A plus an engine rebuild sounds definately like the way to go. Cost almost as much as the car though :) Hmm then there is a R spec tires and all that jazz. Hmmm getting expensive :)
 

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boosted sleeper
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You dont have to go the dev5a route. I hear the dev3hl well and trully holds its own for 2.5k 150rwkw its not bad bang your buck imo. Then you could invest in a chip and try and push the rwkw to 155-160rwkw. I also hear CAPA s/c kits arent bad for a bolt on application for around the 6-7k mark. It really depends on what you intend to do with it on the weekends, i.e. race, burnouts, cruising etc.
 

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Blue Blood
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Discussion Starter #13
blueoval said:
You dont have to go the dev5a route. I hear the dev3hl well and trully holds its own for 2.5k 150rwkw its not bad bang your buck imo. Then you could invest in a chip and try and push the rwkw to 155-160rwkw. I also hear CAPA s/c kits arent bad for a bolt on application for around the 6-7k mark. It really depends on what you intend to do with it on the weekends, i.e. race, burnouts, cruising etc.
Race primarily. 1/4 mile doesn't interest me too much. Cruising well thats why i've got the comfy BA. Race as part of the FPV&XR club I should qualify too :)
 

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boosted sleeper
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Well from what I hear Jim Mock is still going strong, it might be best to call him and tell him your intentions so he can recommend you to something!
 

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Blue Blood
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Discussion Starter #15
blueoval said:
Well from what I hear Jim Mock is still going strong, it might be best to call him and tell him your intentions so he can recommend you to something!
have to buy the car first... I've gotta ask my HR dept at work if I can buy a '97 car. What i'm kinda hoping is that I can buy the car (its at a dealer) get the dealer to send the car to JMM or whoever - get the work done, and then the dealer invoice me for the lot - 2nd hand car, JMM engine work, huge brakes, suspension work and lightweigh rims and tires (oh and super duper alarm kit + tracker).

See if I can get that all on a salary sacrifice/novated lease. :)
 
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