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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 Taurus SEL with 114K.. Today the car was Very low on fuel so I went to the gas station and added fuel "87" to it then I drove off.. Like 5 mins later the Emissions light or whatever it's called started blinking then it would go solid then blink then solid. Is this really bad gas or something more serious. The car rides perfect it's just that when I stop or it idles it has a little shake when the light is flashing but ok when solid.. I plan on taking to mechanic on monday though so any input may help such as should I just burn this fuel off then buy a better fuel grade next time?
 

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Check the gas cap for prpoer tightness; it should click when turned to it's proper tightness; if ok, check it's gasket; mine became hard after 6 years; if they don't seal properly, they will set off the MIL lamp. Buy an OEM cap w/gasket and tether from a dealer; the aftermarket units do not have the tether

see this article;
Fuel (Gas Cap), Loose can Activate MIL/CEL by Jim at canadiandriver.com
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020116.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will check that this evening to see if that's the problem. Yesterday I add gas treatment along with 91 Octane but the light still comes on. The thing is my light isn't solid all the times, sometimes it blinks then goes solid. When it's blinking I could hair a very slight hesitation coming from the engine. I read in the manual that when the light is blinking it means there is a backfire or something. I probably wont be able to take it to mechanic until the weekend so I try not to drive the car. Just seems everything is fine except for the light to come on blinking then goes solid and I swear this happened after I got that fuel on saturday in new jersey.
 

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ok, but before you go to a mech; try a local AutoZone to see if they still offer free OBD II DTC scans; if so, have it done and write down the code(s) and get back here with them; we can track down possible parts/etc/ problems without just changing parts.
Here is their info but i do not see OBD II Test here;http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/free_testing.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay I went to Autozone and the guy read it and gave me a code of p0301 saying there is a misfire in Cylinder 1. Is this an expensive job to fix. I realize that the autozone guy is right because when I stop or slow down I can here someone in the engine like it wants to go then hesitate but when I speed up it's gone.

I called my mechanic and he said something about test and I'm saying cant he just buy new wires and spark plugs? Is this an expensive job? please help.
 

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ok,
Check (EZiest & cheapest things first);
My pure guess is on:
the #1 spark plug wire @ plug and @ distr. cap and/or the spark plug
and if you pull the plug, see if there is coolant on the plug (not likely)
if not them:
check distr cap internally for corrosion @ that #1 terminal or a carbon trail
check the #1 fuel injector connector for tightness/corrosion
intake manifold vacuum leak at #1 cylinder
Fuel injector is clogged (due to bad gas from bottom of tank when you ran low and maybe it got through the fuel filter? - sometimes micro particles can puncture thru the filter);
See if you can rent or loan a mechanics stethoscope from & listento other injectors as they click; then listen to #1 inj.
or swap the fuel injectors #1 with #2 and if the problem travels to the other cylinder, then it is a bad injector; but you would need AZ to clear the codes & start over.
Less likely:
EGR valve sticking
MAP sensor vacuum ports clogged/leaking or poor electrical connection
Faulty TPS or TPS wiring/connector
Do a compression check
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks a lot.. Right now my mechanic friend is doing a turnup on the car. When he checked the spark plugs he said they looked bad so hopefully it's that. He's going to change the plug/wires bought a fuel injecter cleaner.. crossing my fingers hoping the problem will be fixed.. I'll get back to u with an update.. again thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My mechanic did a turnup changing spark plugs fuel filter, air filter and some other things and I just got the car back and the light is OFF. I keep crossing my fingers and hope it's stays off or else I wont pass NYS emissions test next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bad News.. Today I took the car for emission inspection and it passed however after leaving the garage and driving home the damb check engine light came back on. I think it's the same problem as when I'm stop at a light I can here the engine going then there is a slight bump as if something is trying to start in the engine. When I had the code read it said cylinder 1 was misfiring.. since I changed the spark plugs and wires what else could be the problem.

I'm gonna get that code read again though to see if it's the same problem but I suspect it is because I'm getting the same symtoms.
 

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ok, since the mech changed them, did he check the distr. cap internally (esp the #1 terminal) and the plug wire to #1?..ask him.
Then if you have the same code, see if he has a spare plug wire to fit #1's length and then do a test drive; if no go;
try the stethoscope thingie yourself; (I use a piece of old garden hose or cardboard tube from gift wrap etc.to listen for noises under da hood) listen to #1 and compare it to #2.' Clicks
If you hear no click @#1, try swapping 1 and 2 injectors and if you get a code for # 2 this time, then it's the injector, ok? Pick up one from a junkyard to save $

Post back w/results dude! We need to fix it cheaply!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So you think it's the fuel injector?

I had him check it again today and he cleaned the spark plugs or something and I think he unplug something off cylinder 1 while the car was running. He then clear the code by disconnecting the battery. Right now the light is off but I know it will come back on because I can feel when I stop or idle the car engine seems like something is trying to start can cant. Another mechanic friend of mine keeps insisting I do a compression test but the Mechanic today says I don't need that because I pick up speed normally. When the light comes back on I will have to code read again to see what comes up next. I just don't want to take it to the dealer because I know they going to charge me and arm and a leg.

Thanks Meisk I'm gonna relay what u say to do to the mechanic and see if he can fix that. And what about the Compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, the code was cleared on monday and it's about 70 miles later and 3 days and so far the light is off. The car still feels like it's misfiring but the check engine light is off.. is that a clue to find where the problem is coming from? I see that I have horrible gas milage like about 18mpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi again. I had the car checked out by a mechanic and he also did a computer check and came back with the same code P0301. He concluded that it could be 2 things. bad ignition coil plug or bad fuel injector. I haven't been driving the car much as I have a second car but I'm looking to get it fixed now. The mechanic wants to charge me $400 to replace the coil plus I have to buy the coil for $70. He said it's going to take hours for him to do this so that's why it cost so much. Is this true and does it take hours to replace an ignition coil. And can the ignition coil be bought used along with fuel injectors. I don't plan to drive the car for more than 15K miles more before I change it so I don't mind used parts.
 
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