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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
This is my first input on your bulletin board. Please keep all the subjects happening as I have found some of the info quite useful.
Please help.
I have a 5.0 EFII Ghia travelled 68,000 Km.
Have been a good boy and changed the oil every 5,000 Km's since purchased at 35,000 K's.
During the last change I ran an engine oil flush through system for specified time (have done this every 10,000 K's), drained oil, changed filter and filled with 15W 40 oil.
Now I noticed on cold start up a knocking noise for approx. 1-2 seconds, I am assuming until the oil reaches the rockers.
On hot start I don't notice the knock.
Does anyone have any idea's on what may be the problem.
 
J

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If you're changing the oil every 5,000 km you probably don't need to flush it as well. What brand of oil filter are you using? Some of the "less expensive" brands can create this problem.
 

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You may try running an oil with a better cold temperature viscosity. Maybe 5W40? I think Helix Ultra is that rating.
 

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what petrol are you using?
my elxr8 does the same when i start it in the morning when using unleaded.
but is ok when using premium.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello Jimbaddy,
Thanks for your reply.
Cannot remember the brand of oil filter. Went looking for a Ryco Z9 but none in stock, so picked up a filter, blue in colour, come to think of it, it did have no-frills packaging.(white box, blue writing, made in Korea or somewere like that)
Do you have a recomendation for Oil Filter brand?
With regards to the engine flush, I checked the dipstick before change. The oil was darker than normal but not bad. After the flush out the oil was totaly black. I am amazed how much varnish and other contaminates can build up in 10,000 K's.
Your right, its probaly not required to be done evrey 10K, but its just something I prefer to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello Martin and Kiwis,
thanks for your input.

I have looked at using the cold start viscosity oils, but feel a little hesitant to try them as I have not seen them recomended by Ford for use in my engine.
Petrol, I have used Optimax for the last three fills and the knock was still present when using regular un-leaded.
I think Jimbaddy might be onto something with the cheap quality filter.
 
J

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Ryco filters are fine. I had this problem on an XR6, fitted a Motorcraft filter, and the noise disappeared and didn't come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello All,
Changed filter to Motorcraft Z9 and filled with Castrol GTX3 10W40 and cold start noise seems to have gone.
Tommorow morning will be the big test.
Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Early morning test went excellent. No knocking noise at all. So there will be no more saving a couple of dollars on oil filters. Also I have noticed that the oil pressure guage has stopped its eratic movements.
 
J

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Just a hint; if you're changing things to try and ovecome a problem, only change one thing at a time, otherwise you're never really going to be sure what it is that has solved the problem. In this case your problem is solved so that's the main thing.

Salada

Jimbaddy
 
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Hi All.
Hey steve - that knocking you hear is just dreaded piston clap - its common in 5.0 windsors after about 50000km on the clock. My 92 Fairlane V8 had the same problem. Using Valvoline or Pennzoil 15/40 oil solved most the problems.
 
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At or around then 91-95 they had forged pistons.Latter has high silicon cast, lighter less clarence=should be quieter?Forged expand more & can rattle when cold esp in the old Clevo,s
 

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Hi Guys
Sounds like it may have been the filter,

I have just run into this problem today, I have a 95 EF Fairmont 5.0 ltr and I've been running Valvoline Synpower 15w40 in it
and using Ryco Z9's.
It has always ran great on this combination and today when doing an oil change I thought I might try a Purolator PureONE
filter on it.
http://www.pureoil.com/

According to their info in the catalogues and on the boxes, its an excellent filter, and they definitely have a huge following in the
US as I've seen on the net tonight around some of the different chat boards.
Apparently the Purolator filter is the only oil filter made in Northen America that doesnt have a faulty drain back valve inside, so
I've read several times tonight.

Since the filter was fitted earlier today, my oil pressure gauge is only reading at about one third on the gauge where it has
always sat on the half way mark or further upward in the past.
I have also noticed a slight but deep knocking noise coming from the engine when idling tonight after coming back from a 30
minute drive.
So I am of the opinion that this type of filter maybe to restrictive on the oil flow for this engine.

If anyone has not already seen the Engine Oil Filters Review floating around on the net, it is well worth a look.

http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

The Z9 PureONE filter by Purolator is the one I have used and has a review at
http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html#pl30001

My problem now is I don't know whether to drop the oil and change the filter back to a Ryco straight away or to wait and see
for a bit longer.
If I have have to drop it it will have been an expensive lesson at around $120 for 2 bottles of oil and 2 filters.
The old slogan "Better Go Ryco" is ringing in my ears ;-)

Shark
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello Shark,
Yes I agree it was the filter.
Since fitting the Motorcraft Z9 there is no knock at all.
The Motorcraft Z9 cost $9.50 at Peter Warren's Smithfield and the Cooper oil filter cost $6 at Autobarn.
My advice pay the $3, its not woth the extra $25 for the 2nd lot of oil.
Regards
Steve.
 

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Hi Steve

Yeah, I certainly wouldn't go for a cheap filter, the only reason I chose the Purolator PureONE was because of the claims
made on its performance, which I am still yet to find any complaints about except for mine.
They are the No.1 oil filter made in the US and retail for much the same as a Ryco in price here.
The weird thing is,, that the oil filter review site has the following comments down ..
____________________________
Motorcraft

This was a Purolator hybrid. It had the Premium Plus case (anti-drainback valve, gasket, etc.), but with a Pure One
filter element. This is a cheap way to get a Purolator Pure One. It is sold at many locations including AutoZone,
Pep Boys, etc.
____________________________

Now unless the US Motorcraft (Z9 equivalent) and the Australian Motorcraft (Z9 Equivalent) filters are from a different source,
Im practically using the Motorcraft filter myself.
And the review of the Purolator PureONE below sounds like its hit the nail on the head when it comes to the oil flow.
It makes me wonder how much filtration the Ryco Z9 actually does, so as not to sacrifice oil pressure.

I took the car for a drive this morning and at 80-100 kph pressure is normal , on about the third white line towards the top of
the gauge in the dash and at 60-80 kph it dropped halfway down to the next line down below And at idle it is just below the
second white line up from the bottom of the gauge.

So I was pretty happy with that and put it down to perhaps the filter needing a run in period due to its thick design, but when I
got out of the car with it still idling, it sounded like a very quiet diesel engine under the bonnet.

So I think Ill have to get rid of it.
Just for cuiosity did you find similar readings on your oil pressure gauge with the Ryco Z9 and the Motorcaft filters ?

Shark


--------------------
Purolator Premium Plus

The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter element of them all and the bypass
valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an
assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end
caps. In the ProLine (one of the Purolator clones), the string was wrapped too tightly and had damaged the filter
element. All the other Purolator-made filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably
have been fine.


Purolator Pure One

This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the
Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that
can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator
addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I
am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element.
It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration
abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with
this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.

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I use Mobil-1 in my EB V8. Never had the problem, and I have 290,000 k's on the big girl.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello Shark,
Yes I am getting similar readings on my guage now.
With the Cooper filter at sppeds above 70kph the guage would red line then drop to about half, it was all over the place, and when idleing when motor was hot the guage would sit on the first line.
What's the expression "Up and down more than a Brides nighty".
Regards,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hello EB 5litre,
Yes Mobil 1 is a good oil, no argument from me. I work in the Industrial gear box game and have seen what synthetic oils can do to an oil seal, if the seal is not suitable for contact with synthetic chemicals. I am going to contact Ford with regards to using synthetics in my V8 EF11 motor. If they say there will be no probems, will change to synthetic lubricant next oil change.
Regards,
Steve.
 

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Hi i found this forum and found some info you might like to know relating to filters for ford and different types for v6 and v8

Table 1: Ford BA Falcon applications and part numbers
---------------Application------RYCO-------Ford Genuine

Air Petrol:------LPG-------------A1475----- BA9601A & BA9601B

Fuel:----------All vehicles-------Z373-------AFG61

Oil:------------6 cylinder--------Z9---------AFL1

Oil:------------V8---------------Z516-------F1AZ-6731-BD

some of you might allready know this but i thought it might help having the info here anyway :driver:
 
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