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Mikey
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Discussion Starter #1
I bought an engine 140 ci HSC at the local junk yard and rebuilt it for my 89 Tempo. There's a number 1E24SS stamped in the block on the engine to head mating surface. Any idea if I can use this to determine what year this engine is?
 

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Haven't a clue. The E should mean in the '80s thinking but the next number is 2 for 1982, the HSC was not used until '84, are you sure you don't have the 2 and 4 backwards? A typical rebuilt code is 'E43' from my looking around.......................

If mechanical fuel pump drive hole still there in block then earlier than around '87 or '88. If has a cam sensor hole (CID sensor) then later than say '90. Does engine have valve cover or intake? That can tell too. Belt pulleys can as well, all one serp belt only is the late one. Serp belt + regular V-belt is what you got on your '89 I'm thinking.
 

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Mikey
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.... sorry about the delay in responding. Been working on the car. I looked again and that number is correct. Yes the engine I bought has valve cover, intake and exhaust manifold. The paper tag on the valve cover is gone. Are there numbers on those other parts that might help? I know the fuel pump is in the gas tank and don't know where to find the fuel pump drive hole. Don't know where to look for the cam sensor hole either. Sorry, not being much help..... I do have a Ford shop manual that I can refer to.

Serpentine belt on crank/tensioner/AC/PS pump.... single V on Alt/PS pump.... single V on crank/tensioner/water pump.....

One odd thing I've run into is that I bought a rebuilt PS pump and now the pulley doesn't line up with the AC or crankshaft pulley. There are 2 pulleys, the serpentine/multi-groove crank/AC/PS/spring loaded tensioner and the single groove alternator belt. Both pulleys bolt (4) to a "flange" that is pressed onto the pump shaft. Can't find an example of this setup anywhere. I have the cast aluminum mounting bracket from both engines and measured everything thinking there may be some difference there and can't find any difference between them. VERY WEIRD.

I tried to upload some pics but can't figure out how to do it.
 

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Your belt setup says '88 to around '90 or so, thinking '91 or '92 went to one serp belt only on everything. You may have wrong PS pump. Or you may have to press off the old flange to then press it on the new pumpshaft, some pumps makers require you to do crap like that as they do not service every possible pulley setup out there, only the most popular ones. I'd doublecheck as to whether you have right pump first. If pulley on new pump is the correct one you may simply need to move it using pressing tools that parts stores will rent out.
 

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Mikey
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks amc49, especially for taking the time to REALLY read my lengthy post.

I have the tools to both remove and install the "flange" so that's not a problem. I measured the distance from the end of the shaft to the face of the shaft seal on both pumps and they are within 1/32" of each other. The shop manual says that the end of the shaft should be +/- .010 inch flush with the face of the pulley.... in my case, I made it flush with the face of the "flange". I also measured from the end of the shaft to the 3 mounting tab surfaces of both pumps and they are the same as close as I can measure using a straight edge on the end of the shaft and a steel scale that has a slide piece on it that acts like a depth gauge.

I have the aluminum mounting brackets from both engines so.... thinking they may be different, I measured the distance from the pump mounting surface to the engine mounting holes on both and they matched... darn, wish I could post those pictures for you.... I even measured the distance from the bracket mounting threaded holes in the block to the face of the block on both engines. The old pump came from the "old" engine and I'm putting the new pump on the "new" engine. So I've got 2 sets of engine parts which just makes everything that much more complicated.

One thing I have noticed is that the surface of the flange is not flat. There's a raised area that is a larger diameter than the hole in the pulleys which causes the grooved outside diameter to pull in towards the pump slightly when I tighten the 4 bolts. But not quite enough to make up for the misalignment of the belt. Kind of an odd design but I'm amusing it's that way for a reason.

At this point I'm at a loss as to what's causing this so my next step is to assemble the bracket, pump, "flange", alternator and both belts and try to measure the misalignment. I'll then remove the flange piece and grind the end closest to the shaft seal so I can move it in (towards the seal) to get the grooves lined up. I tried to move it the first time I put it on but it hit the seal and pulled the internal pump parts to the point that it was hard to turn the pump so I backed it off..

This sure is a mystery to me but typical of the problems I have had with this car/engine.

Once again, thanks for taking the time to help me with this.

It's been my experience that problems like this seem to always have a solution that becomes apparent just after you "rebuild the bridge over a different place along the river".

If the rest of the car wasn't in such great shape, [I've had it painted, the interior is very nice and it is a sweet little car], it would already be in the crusher by now. lol
 

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Screw what the shop manual says when you have a special situation, you need to line the pulley up with the others doing whatever it takes.

Do NOT use a pulley that warps when you tighten bolts down, that is wrong and will break in short order. Meaning probable wrong part. The pulley should seat flat and then bolt down solid with no moving around of pulley dimensionally at all.

These cars came with lots of small changes over the years and easy to get caught up in wrong parts.
 

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Mikey
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Discussion Starter #7
One of the problems is that the shop manual has no diagrams of this particular set up. Everything shows a single piece double pulley with the mounting hole that goes on to PS pump shaft..... I can find nothing about my 2 piece pulley/flange/4 bolt setup.
I took my son out to take a look at it with me... never hurts to have another set of eyes..... so he looks at it.. looks at me.... and says... Uh dad, maybe you have the flange on backwards....... so to save face I say... I think your right but of course you know it has to be Ford's fault cause nobody ever designs a flange that goes on with "neck" pointing out.

Maybe you can see what I mean in the pics.

http://www.fordforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44729&stc=1&d=1454780296

http://www.fordforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44737&stc=1&d=1454780296

http://www.fordforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44745&stc=1&d=1454780296
Sure enough, that was the problem.
































Thanks to all that tried to help me.
 

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Been a while since I played with that one but I remember it. Burned the crap out of myself heating up hub to press it and stupidly picked it up seconds later. What was I thinking there???? Big dummie.....

Hey, those often call for a Mitsubishi alternator in certain years, if you mess with the parts guys they can root around in parts book to come up with a Ford alt that directly bolts in place of the Japanese one and half the price, or at least it was back then. I made $85 one day out of thin air doing that one.
 
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