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Discussion Starter #1
I have cobra kit car with a 351W (1972 engine) that when it gets warm about 190 it stops running. After it cools it will start again. I have the plugs set at .044, which were what they were set at when I purchased the engine. It has a Pro Tronix Flame Thrower coil and distributor. I removed the ballast resister as per instructions. The engine has heavy duty pistons (9:1 ratio), a H.O. Blue Racer Hydraulic camshaft, Roush Heads, Edelbrock intake and 4 barrel carb. I need some ideas why.
Any help at all would be appreciated,
 

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Engine temperature should come into play, but time to temperature might. What are you running for a fuel pump and does your regulator have a return?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't know the name of the fuel pump. I better start back at the beginning so one knows what I'm dealing with. I purchased the engine as a complete unit in 2005, built a cobra kit car and had no trouble for about 10 years. Then after driving the car for 2 hours, stopped for gas and when it restarted ran rough (thought it may be bad gas) but after being towed home found I had no spark. Changed the Dura Spark and it fired right up and ran good for until December, I figured it was the Dura Spark again. Changed it and fired up and ran good. Then it stopped. Mechanic suggested I change to Flame Thrower Distributer, coil and plug wires and get away from the Dura Spark, which I did. Started up and ran for 20-30 minutes and stopped, That's where I'm at. The only wiring change I have made is to remove the ballast resister. What do you mean by a regulator return? I have never heard that term.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Reading about plug gaps. Could it be possible the gap is too large and when engine gets up to temperature causes the coil to overheat and cut out?
 

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One last item, I have an adjustable electric fan and did have a short in the fan. I have changed fans but not the control unit, Is it possible that the control unit has a short in it also. The fan does come on when it's supposed to but could there be a short in the unit as the temperature rises? It is run off the gage temperature. Today I will run the engine without that item connected and see what happens. I have a fan control coming that the sending unit will be in the radiator and not adjustable, which will be OK. I hope that will solve my problem. Any thoughts?
 

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I would look at the coil as it can cause symptoms like this when it heat soaks.


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That shutting down once the engine gets warm then starting back up once it cools off is definitely a typical symptom of a suspect ignition part.
 

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I was referring to fuel regulator having a return line, but as you explain more, it sounds more like spark.
 

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You have changed the ignition system, I would check the wiring for loose connections or poor connections. This sounds like the old vapor lock problems we had back in the 60s and 70s. What carb are you running? If your fuel lines get very hot they can vapor lock. Probably not the problem since the engine ran fine for a long time, but I would definitely check your fuel pressure.
 
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