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Hi all. I have a 4.1L unleaded carby XF 1986 S-Pac Ford Falcon sedan with the standard 50A Alternator. I am having some issues with the electrical system. I have a little 15W amp installed with a 10A fuse.
At night when I have the amp and the regular lights on everything is fine - the volt meter in the dash stays on about the half-way mark where it is supposed to be. When I put the high beam lights on, the amp momentarily cuts out (for about half a second), and the volt meter gradually, over about 10 seconds, creeps down to around 2 (out of 7 I think). At this stage everything is fine. However, if, with the high beam lights on I decide to A) use the windscreen wipers or B) the brakes (i.e. brake lights), the amp cuts in and out at regular intervals of about half a second (on-off-on-off) and the pilot light on the amp turn on switch glows dim-bright-dim-bright.
I had the auto electrician check the electrical system and alternator regulator, which he says is fine. What I need to do he says, is have the alternator stator redone (or something) so as to provide more current, which should cost about 60 or 70 dollars.
Anyway, instead of getting the alternator redone, I was concidering getting a second hand c. 80A alternator (I am looking at maybe a BMW Bosch Alternator E21, E30, 80A). If an alternator can mechanically be bolted straight into place where the old alternator was (including the belt and all), what other considerations are there for the electrical system, particularly in relation the the carby XF Falcon? Are all alternators pretty much the same electrically, providing 14V straight from a standard built in retifier/regulator to the battery/electrical system? That is, if it is mechanically compatible, will it be electrically compatible? What is this 7V auto choke connection I have heard about? If a new alternator does not have a connection for this for my XF, is it ok to connect the choke straight to the 12V electrical system via a DC voltage stepdown circuit (so it still 'sees' 7V)? Thanks!
At night when I have the amp and the regular lights on everything is fine - the volt meter in the dash stays on about the half-way mark where it is supposed to be. When I put the high beam lights on, the amp momentarily cuts out (for about half a second), and the volt meter gradually, over about 10 seconds, creeps down to around 2 (out of 7 I think). At this stage everything is fine. However, if, with the high beam lights on I decide to A) use the windscreen wipers or B) the brakes (i.e. brake lights), the amp cuts in and out at regular intervals of about half a second (on-off-on-off) and the pilot light on the amp turn on switch glows dim-bright-dim-bright.
I had the auto electrician check the electrical system and alternator regulator, which he says is fine. What I need to do he says, is have the alternator stator redone (or something) so as to provide more current, which should cost about 60 or 70 dollars.
Anyway, instead of getting the alternator redone, I was concidering getting a second hand c. 80A alternator (I am looking at maybe a BMW Bosch Alternator E21, E30, 80A). If an alternator can mechanically be bolted straight into place where the old alternator was (including the belt and all), what other considerations are there for the electrical system, particularly in relation the the carby XF Falcon? Are all alternators pretty much the same electrically, providing 14V straight from a standard built in retifier/regulator to the battery/electrical system? That is, if it is mechanically compatible, will it be electrically compatible? What is this 7V auto choke connection I have heard about? If a new alternator does not have a connection for this for my XF, is it ok to connect the choke straight to the 12V electrical system via a DC voltage stepdown circuit (so it still 'sees' 7V)? Thanks!
