I'm not sure what the problem is, I'm No pro, and I wouldn't of attempted that on my own. Sounds to me like camber adjustment is necessary. It's the vertical angle of the wheels used for steering angles if memory serves me correct. Did you check your camber and toe angles. Could it be your springs are not seated correctly. This all account for not returning to center with out alittle help.
Front wheels lean in after lower ball joint replacement
Just replaced the lower ball joints on my 2000 GM and now the front wheels lean in at the top and the steering doesn't quite want to return to center on its own...takes a little extra effort on my part to bring back to center. Joints are fully seated and greased. Everything else looks good other than the sway bar links, but it doesn't seem that they would make the wheels lean in...any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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You need a front end geometry check and adjustment / set up by a good shop .This link for TOP ball joints shows the adjustment cams and the need for proper equipment for adjusting same .
http://www.autoclinix.com/Mercury/BallJoints2.htm
http://www.autoclinix.com/Mercury/BallJoints2.htm
I'll check the uppers again this afternoon. I just find it strange that the wheels were straight as an arrow before we did the lowers and now they lean. I've changed many lower ball joints in my day and never had this problem. If I can't find the issue, I guess its going to a shop.(which im totally against)...oh well. I'll update as soon as I know something. Thanks for the input.
The only thing I can think off is if any excessive wear on old ball joints allowed the wheels to settle in that position .Saying that I always done a precautionary geometry / alignment check after replacing ball joints , usually fine .
See, I told you I was no pro. Just trying to help a brother in need. These moderates are really good. Hey Logan, was I even in the same ballpark on this 1.
The lower ball joint replacement should not have affected the alignment that bad. Did you have the uppers of by any chance?
Never had the uppers apart, other than a couple years ago when I replaced the right upper. I checked them out this evening and they're not great, but not horrible either, so Im going to change both uppers and have an alignment done and we'll see if that helps. Don't know when I'll be able to get around to doing it, but I'll update when I do. Im also looking for a good set of p71 springs to put on her. My buddy seems to think that its all because the springs are weak and 15 years old, but I just find it odd that they started leaning in all of a sudden instantly after doing the the lower joints. Never seen that with lowers before. I've wanted to put taller springs on it for a while now anyways, so I guess this is just the little push I needed 
Have you checked your control arm bushings? I recently had to do my lower ball joints on my 99. everything was fine before I pulled it apart, but once put back together, it just did not quite look right. Even the 2 different shops that tried to align the front did not find what was wrong. Come to find out, the bushing where bad and when I moved things more than they usually traveled, it ate the bushing up just enough. The lower control arms moved outward and the spring tension and the weight of the vehicle kept them there, but they would move back when lifted. I only found out after I jacked it back up and physically inspected them. There where no telltale signs pointing to them, the steering was tight and I had no clunking or any other noise while driving. The bushings looked fine, except it that small little area that you can't quite see.
I'll definitely take a look at the control arm bushings tomorrow...I do get an occasional squeak from the front end and it seems to be happening more often lately. I assumed it was the sway bar bushings, but control arm bushings could very well be the culprit. I appreciate all the help, guys. Thank you
How I found it was I jacked up the car and supported it well, then I had a buddy of mine pull on the bottom of the wheel as hard as he could. When he did that, I saw the control arm move. It didn't move much, something like an eighth of an inch, but it was enough. Just imagine how much it moved with the weight of the vehicle.
The bushings essentially split. When the weight of the vehicle came down, the steel sleeve would slip into the split in the rubber bushing, when the vehicle was raise, the rubber of the bushing would push the sleeve back into its proper location.
The bushings essentially split. When the weight of the vehicle came down, the steel sleeve would slip into the split in the rubber bushing, when the vehicle was raise, the rubber of the bushing would push the sleeve back into its proper location.
As confirmed by r-clar there should only be slight , if any , variations after replacing bottom ball joints .Often an alignment if slightly out , is brought back to spec on replacing worn ball joints and no adjustment needed .A suspension left hanging on repairing should settle back down once the car is on the ground but sometimes driving the car a short distance , braking and turning is needed . If still not right , as suggested check for wear on susp arm bushes .A large pinch bar used on arm / bushes should show any wear .
Birdmedic , your advice , opinions, suggestions always welcome .You can never get enough " steps for a hint " in solving car troubles .
Birdmedic , your advice , opinions, suggestions always welcome .You can never get enough " steps for a hint " in solving car troubles .
Any time you replace ANY front steering or suspension component, you are going to need a front end alignment. I ran negative camber on my '64 Fairlane for nearly 2 years while I was rebuilding everything. Wore out 3 sets of front tires in 20,000 miles. When I finally got the entire front end rebuilt, and found a place that would (knew how) to work on a car that old, I got a front end alignment, and the tire wear stopped. One of the things I love about my '06 GM, besides the V8 engine and RWD, is the solid rear axle, that will never need any kind of alignment. I loved the Twin-I-Beam front suspension on my former 1975 F150 for the same reason.
Replacing front control arms do not require you to do front end alignments if the alignment was perfect before hand. Now if it was out of whack and then an alignment was done before replacing control arms/ball joints then likely there was another issue to begin with. Then an aligment is required after replacement. So as an example: the car i bought brand new in 2015 had perfect alignment. But i can hear my worn ball joints clunking around. Since my alignment is still perfect, after my lower control arm/ball joints get replaced, no alignment needs to be done.
A quick google search of "do you have to do alignments after front ball joint replacement" will also confirm this within first several sesrch results. 👍
A quick google search of "do you have to do alignments after front ball joint replacement" will also confirm this within first several sesrch results. 👍
You have replied to a post more than 7 yrs years old and all ready well covered in replies and correct answers .Replacing front control arms do not require you to do front end alignments if the alignment was perfect before hand. Now if it was out of whack and then an alignment was done before replacing control arms/ball joints then likely there was another issue to begin with. Then an aligment is required after replacement. So as an example: the car i bought brand new in 2015 had perfect alignment. But i can hear my worn ball joints clunking around. Since my alignment is still perfect, after my lower control arm/ball joints get replaced, no alignment needs to be done.
A quick google search of "do you have to do alignments after front ball joint replacement" will also confirm this within first several sesrch results. 👍
I know I'm responding to an old thread, but I'm with those 100% who say to check the alignment/geometry.
Alignments are cheap, tires are not, and it doesn't take much to wear tires unevenly.
If memory serves, for every 1/32" the toe setting is off, it drags the tire 11 feet per mile.
Alignments are cheap, tires are not, and it doesn't take much to wear tires unevenly.
If memory serves, for every 1/32" the toe setting is off, it drags the tire 11 feet per mile.
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