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Red army P.O.W.
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 302 cleaveland with 2V gas heads, all stock with a C4 3-speed auto. I have a lot of friends who all think Holdens are the Shite because they drive injected 3800 V6 VN's. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can make a shot at Ford supreamacy in my area?

I currently have the inlet manifold half off because I removed my 2 barrel and I'm replacing it with a Carter Thermoquad. That's going on as soon as I can get it rebuilt. It's an off-set inlet (the non-square two bigs two smalls).

I have a set of (what I think are) 2 or 2 1/4" extractors that need mounting and attaching to the pipe work.

Anyone with any ideas PLEASE help me. I'm sick off all my mates dissing my ride cause it's different from what they all drive.

I know Ford's are the best, I just need to prove it to everyone else.
 

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Red army P.O.W.
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Discussion Starter #2
P.S. I'm also trying to show a lot of rice rocketeers that V8's hold their own as well.
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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6,360 Posts
Mild cam,valve springs 4 barrel inlet and carb, extractors you'll go well..You have sbread bore..
 

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Red army P.O.W.
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
What type of specs. would I be looking at for a mild cam?

What's a good brand name I should look out for as far as the springs go?

What benefits would I get from installing r/rockers?

Thanks ebxr for the lingo fix up :)
 

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Dude, being a 302 Cleveland, put a 351 Crank and Rods and therefor you will have a Cleveo 351. Also Try not to put a Thermoquad on your car, you will have Nothing but problems. Try other Quaddy carbs or even a Holly. Suprisingly ive been told by a Wreaker that the Holden Blackmotor 4bbl Carby works great on a 302/351 Cleveland.
 

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boosted sleeper
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4,560 Posts
Cam wise - I recommend Cranecams, crow, sig erson, competition, etc. A mild street, torquey cam would be ample to put those dudes in their place. Crane double spring wouldnt go astray, also a 3 angle valve grind and if you can afford it, a decent stall converter for your c4 to match with the cam specs.
 

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Slurry Boostin
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1,211 Posts
I agree with ZHFairlaneV8 on the 351 Crank point. Easiest bang for buck.

A mid-range kind of cam, say around .540, .540" lift. some reasonable springs. no need at all for double springs. Heavy duty singles with a dampner.

'Performance Springs' are a cheap Australian alternative to the other pricey brands, yet still work fine. Try Vic Speed Pro in dandy.

At the stage you are at, no real benefit from rollers.

definetly fit your extractors, they will be help heaps.

If it isn't already electronic ignition, grab one.

if you can afford it, fit an aftermarket inlet manifold.

As for carby selection, there are too many threads on here debating which carb to use. There is nothing wrong with Thermoquads. Too many people are quick to jump on the wagon and say "thermoquads are shite". The experiences I've had with thermoquads have been excellent. But I can see the arguement of having no-one know what they are doing with them. There are plenty of people on here that can/have set thermoquads up succesfully. But Holley's and Quadrajets can also be well setup on a clevo. My preference for high HP being Holley. My preference for mild HP/economy/driveability being either Thermoquad or Quadrajet.

After that if the $$ permit, maybe a shift kit/stall and some nice diff gears :)

In no time you'll be munching ricers =D
 

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socially irresponsible
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1,194 Posts
blueoval said:
Cam wise - I recommend Cranecams, crow, sig erson, competition, etc. A mild street, torquey cam would be ample to put those dudes in their place. Crane double spring wouldnt go astray, also a 3 angle valve grind and if you can afford it, a decent stall converter for your c4 to match with the cam specs.
no, no, no you do not need a "name" brand cam unless you just want to get the sticker for the back window and tell everyone what you've got. you can get a cam, lifter and spring set for around the same price as a "name" camshaft. my tiny bit of advice to you is the same as TTNOS8, low lift and keep the duration on the int-exh the same when using 2v heads and definatly electronic if using pulp.
 

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Hey people, New to these forums...

Judging by the advice you are giving to thise dude... (I also have a 302 clev.) I should throw in a mild cam and some springs, maybe 351 crank and rods?

I have to replace the timing chain as well, so all the parts I need to get are 351 crank, rods, cam and springs and I'll be right?
 

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MakoZH said:
Hey people, New to these forums...

Judging by the advice you are giving to thise dude... (I also have a 302 clev.) I should throw in a mild cam and some springs, maybe 351 crank and rods?
QUOTE]


im gona be the party pooper here and mention that its not simply a matter of throwing in a 351 crank and rods, once you decide go go 351 it is gona be a full rebuld not a half day job to just trow em in.
 

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Red army P.O.W.
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
TyreToaster said:
im gona be the party pooper here and mention that its not simply a matter of throwing in a 351 crank and rods, once you decide go go 351 it is gona be a full rebuld not a half day job to just trow em in.
I completly understand this. I actually have 2 302C's One is in a car waiting for it's carby, the other is in pieces waiting to be turned into one mean mother [email protected]#ker. I was mainly after tips on how to jazz up the one that is running, but as far as the camshaft and new springs go I'll probably wait until I'm rebuliding the other one.

A little off topic, is there any way to convert my 302C to complete computer controlled ignition? I'm in the process of designing my own PC operated management system, but I'm unaware of any way to high tech an engine this old to that kind of level. I know if would probably be possible on say a GM 3800 red engine because it has a million sensors in it. The most important of all being the camshaft sensor.

Any ideas on whether or not this can be done?
 

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Red army P.O.W.
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanx Qwik

The problem with the stuff from jaycars is they don't "know" anything about your engine. I would still need to find a suitable oxygen sensor, maniold pressure sensor, etc. I want to make it so the computer tells it when to fire, and it does not rely on a distributer for the firing points.
 

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Concetrating on your existing daily driver engine;

yes, fit extractors and a good exhaust.
yes, fit the Thermoquad.
yes, fit an electronic ignition. The Jaycar HEI kit is a good one. I have two in use.
yes, Run PULP with an additive.
What year is the motor? If later emissions engine, adjustable timing set to retime the cam properly.
All can be done without removing the engine or effecting a major teardown.
 

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Munch Munch Rice 4 Lunch
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594 Posts
qwikcorty how do the HEI kits work, how do you wire them up?
 

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1,344 Posts
how they work, no idea, to wire mine up is fairly easy theres about 5 or 6 wires, 2 wires from dizzy, 1 to tacho, 1 to coil, +12 and earth i think.

I get the jist of how the programmable part works, the dizzy is set at full advance, and the computer program takes out timing at idle then slowly put it back as u go through the revs. all the kits have very good instructions anyway, with different setups for different dizzys.
 

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Munch Munch Rice 4 Lunch
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594 Posts
so whats the difference between them and the ones in the XC falcons, apart from the rev limiter?
 

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they are meant to put out a better spark and can be digitally curved, instead of having the dizzy done at a ignition shop. ill soon see how it goes when i try and fire the 351. when its all together that is.
 

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Revhead Ron,

The Jaycar kit(s) are actually two separate kit. One being, very basically, a transitorised ignition, the other a programable control module. The have been designed as a complimentary pair, but the transitorised module can function as a stand alone unit.

I wont go into the programable unit, but the ignition module is very versatile and robust. I have been running one in one of my cars for over 4 years now without a hint of trouble.

But .... they are a kit. It comes as a packet of components and a circuit board. You have to assemble, adjust the current limiting and wire it in. No great shakes, it's a very straight forward kit to make.

I think at present they are about $56, so good value too.
 

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Munch Munch Rice 4 Lunch
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594 Posts
ok well i've got an 81 Fairlane 351 it has the electronic distributor with the built in module, could i incorporate the Jaycar HEI unit into my ignition system? or would it be kinda pointless?
 
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