Can anyone explain to me why Car brake systems do more work up front then in the back? I know I have been told and read in many places that systems are about 80-20, 70-30 front/back. Why is that? Wouldn't it be better if the back brakes were doing as much work?
Help
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Hi Tim,
The ratio is more realistically 60/40 - the reason is due to the weight in the front ie: the engine - the front brake take much more abuse due to the weight factor and usually need to be replaced 2 times to every one set of rears - and that rings even more true on front wheel drive cars that have the weight of the transaxle up front also - hope this helped
The ratio is more realistically 60/40 - the reason is due to the weight in the front ie: the engine - the front brake take much more abuse due to the weight factor and usually need to be replaced 2 times to every one set of rears - and that rings even more true on front wheel drive cars that have the weight of the transaxle up front also - hope this helped
Joined
·
20 Posts
Slowing down
Hi there! Don't forget about weight transfer. When
you slow down, the weight shifts forward increasing
the load on the brakes.Tim R
Hi there! Don't forget about weight transfer. When
you slow down, the weight shifts forward increasing
the load on the brakes.Tim R
they say remove all the unnecessary objects from your trunk to reduce the weight on your vehicle to preserve gas mileage?
OK, I guess Ford understands that the brakes are less expensive than the rising prices of gas therefore they do nothing to reduce the weight of the front end, but urge you to keep the rear as light as possible.... D'oh!
OK, I guess Ford understands that the brakes are less expensive than the rising prices of gas therefore they do nothing to reduce the weight of the front end, but urge you to keep the rear as light as possible.... D'oh!
G
Guest
·I had my front brakes checked after 7,000 miles with new OEM pads.....there was a good sized chunk missing out of my left outside pad!
I may never run OEM brake parts again. I once ran all new OEM rotors, only to later warp three days later. (1995 Crown Vic)
![]()
I may never run OEM brake parts again. I once ran all new OEM rotors, only to later warp three days later. (1995 Crown Vic)
Brakes
Well you guys are talking about brakes.... I waited a tad to long when I changed mine... My REAR Drivers side pad was done PAST THE BRAKE PAD and I was stopping on the backing plate! The others were extremly low!
I bought all new Rabestos Pads and Rotors and I was set ( Sorry Metroplex-i bought raybestos....)
Jonathan
Well you guys are talking about brakes.... I waited a tad to long when I changed mine... My REAR Drivers side pad was done PAST THE BRAKE PAD and I was stopping on the backing plate! The others were extremly low!
I bought all new Rabestos Pads and Rotors and I was set ( Sorry Metroplex-i bought raybestos....)
Jonathan
MY PREFRENCE------------>
I HAVE USED BOTH PERFORMANCE FRICTION AND HAWK HEAD BRAKES AND TO ME THOSE ARE THE BEST ON THE MARKET THEY ARE CARBON METALLIC'S...
www.hawkhead.com
www.performancefriction.com
GOOD LUCK
P.S.-> BE VERY VERY QUIET K9 IS ON PATROL!
I HAVE USED BOTH PERFORMANCE FRICTION AND HAWK HEAD BRAKES AND TO ME THOSE ARE THE BEST ON THE MARKET THEY ARE CARBON METALLIC'S...
www.hawkhead.com
www.performancefriction.com
GOOD LUCK
P.S.-> BE VERY VERY QUIET K9 IS ON PATROL!
looks like the reasons are already well listed.
tim, if you're looking to balance the braking load with your car, you could install an adjustable brake proportioning valve. that way, you could dial in the setting you like that would make you feel the most comfortable with stopping your car.
on my probe, i have not done this yet and i really don't need to. you see, i upgraded all four discs (brembo cross drilled), the brake lines (goodridge stainless steel braided), the fluid (motul rf600), and my pads (porterfield r4s). that along with my lowering springs (eibach pro-kit) and struts, combine to eliminate any nose dive i have and reduce the amount ot weight transfer under hard braking.
in the end, these things have helped reduce my braking distance dramatically. on a crown vic, it may be a little different, but the results should still be similar.
hope that helps.
tim, if you're looking to balance the braking load with your car, you could install an adjustable brake proportioning valve. that way, you could dial in the setting you like that would make you feel the most comfortable with stopping your car.
on my probe, i have not done this yet and i really don't need to. you see, i upgraded all four discs (brembo cross drilled), the brake lines (goodridge stainless steel braided), the fluid (motul rf600), and my pads (porterfield r4s). that along with my lowering springs (eibach pro-kit) and struts, combine to eliminate any nose dive i have and reduce the amount ot weight transfer under hard braking.
in the end, these things have helped reduce my braking distance dramatically. on a crown vic, it may be a little different, but the results should still be similar.
hope that helps.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
