I've visited the Hiclone page too.
The Guy didn.t realy say WHERE to mount the hiclone though.
On my EF i've moded the inlet pipes to EL spec. Where did you guys mount the Hiclone & would you reccomend one ?
Also, has anyone tried the extra air hose from the bumper air scoop into the bottom of the air box trick ? If so does it work & is it worth it ? (Saw the "how to do it" on the other part of this website....
wigman, hiclone is a smallcylinder that sits inside the air inlet tube. it has fins inside shaped sort of like a aircraft wing. there sposed to swirl the air entering the inlet manifold resulting in better combustion.i put mine about halfway along just after the ribbed elbow part. maker claims 3kw haven't been to dyno yet but as i'm after every kw i can get (aren't we all) i thought i'd try it out. cost $160 .
Not to step on anyones toes but im tending to agree with dennis.How can this give you more?? i understand what it is,where it goes & what it does to the incoming air flow but..... as it enters the intake plenum it has to turn around to enter the separate intake runners this is where it looses velocity & any spiralling force.
What id like to see at the mouth of "each" runner is something like this product therefore as it enters the chambers its already causing a spiralling effect.. good for flow & air/fuel mixture Am i right to think this??!!
Maybe it's a bit like Peter Brooks little crystal box.
But I do have to say it DID make a difference to my previous car. I've got some dyno figures done before and after, if I can find them. Off the top of my head it was about 3 or 4kw. Can't prove the fuel savings except to say that I felt I was getting better fuel economy after it was fitted.
As a diesel mechanic (navy).... dont hold that against me. In alot of mags and even when you do courses on engines. The more air swirl the better. I dont really know why but they rekon it increases the ponies and it increases the volume of air going into the combustion camber. On a few diesel engines they run a thing that looks like a fan on the inlet valves to make the air swirl. Im not totally studied up on the hiclone. But that is what sounds like it meant to be doing.
I personally would by a k&n filter and cut a nice big hole in the front of the air box.. personal experience that is does really work.And consider a cold induction hose like on the tech pages photo's.
Good luck in search for horsie's.
Yes Matt I agree with the hole in the air box route, those shots in the tech pages are mine & I've done this 'mod' to my EB XR8 & my brothers EL XR8, haven't measured anything as far as airflow or dynos go, but 'seat of the pants' lets you know it actually works not to mention that parts total less than $40. If you think about an engine as being a big air pump, than the principles of stuffing in as much cool(dense) air as possible & then extracting it efficiently makes for the first steps you should take in modifying your motor. Just look at what a decent set of heads & intake set up can do to a Falcon V8 - T series = 220KW compared to the pre-chev floggerdore motors, couldn't crack 225kw (alleged)without stroking it!
You say you ran the cold air tubing on your brother's EL, was there any problems with the ABS module (or is it in a different pozzy on an EL)I'm still interested in doing this (I've still got your photos that you emailed) but I have heard of some clearance probs with the ABS module in the left hand guard.
Tickfrd-XR8-I agree with the issue of swirl improving power and combustion. However, with these Hiclone, the unit is placed a LONG way (relatively speaking) from the inlet valve, and even further from the cylinder. There would be no hope of the benefits of swirl making it this far; the thing would just be impeding airflow. The situation is worse for the 6 than the 8-think of how far the swirl is produced, given the short/long inlet tracts, plenum etc.
Hi xr6wgn, Yes there is a bit more mucking around (5 mins more,) going around the ABS module on ELs compared to the EB (minus ABS) but nothing too tricky. The hole into the airbox (& naturally the metal under) is in exactly the same location, stick to 3.5 inches (same size as the silicon duct), the hose duct is very flexible so all you do is bend it around the module & fix it to the small brake duct inlets (this piece pops out easily.) With the EB the air flow is more direct (straight) & bends only when entering the base of the box but after finishing both set ups I placed a freezer bag on the duct end in the airbox & ran a blow dryer abot 500mm infront of the duct to check air flow, they both filled up straight away, a crude method to test but shows that air entry is miles ahead of the top mounted factory snorkel. The only other point to note is that ELs have a plastic guard lining running on the inside of each guard, you have to take this off to do the work & will have to trim a section out where the duct comes into contact with it - or leave it off altogether. I'll organise a step by step how to with photos for both models on the tech pages soon.
xr6digga, the set-up I've done is suitable for the V8s as they pick up air within the box at the base & channel it through the top. I'm not too familiar with the EF six set up but I assume its similar to the older EB type where it picks up through the top & draws through the bottom of the airbox. You could try & retro fit an airbox from an 8 & continue on with what we did or you could fit a cone type filter within the box (ala sequential) or remove the box, fit the cone filter - rampod, shroud it from the engine & run a duct through the same location as ours. We've experimented with 2 different systems on the 6 - both EB 2s, one retaining the factory pickup point at the top but running a rigid piping system from under the front spoiler, between the radiator/headlight. We found it quite difficult to set up & because its virtually a vertical rise for the air, it wasn't that effective. The second option involved cutting one side of the airbox lid away & building a 'tray' lip to meet with the underside of the bonnet. We then cut a hole through the bonnet, fixed on a mesh insert & urethaned over a Sequential type scoop. Looked great, made a little difference in go but a lot more work. My mates been driving it around for about a year now with no problems reported but I'd hesitate at doing it again because water/rain does enter through this opening. I'll post some pictures soon of all the set-ups.