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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Just been doing a bit of reading and thinking, and i was contemplating getting my flywheel either lightened (machined) or replacing it.

Does anyone know any good people to ask to do this in the Geelong area?

Cause i've also read the downside of an improperly machined flywheel, flying off and breaking gear box and possible slicing of legs off! Doesn't sound much like fun, so any experience with good shops would be great.

Cheers,
Luke
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Engine is 2.5L V6 found in Telstar TX5/626/Probe, 1992 model. KL03 is engine model number.
The idea of lightening the flywheel is to reduce the rotational weight to get better acceleration. From what i've read, the original flywheel weighs in at 24lb, which is a touch under 11kg. If you took 4-5kg of that rotational weight, it is equivalent to taking about 140kg off the cars weight in 1st gear, about 70kg in 2nd gear and minimal in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear.

There is 9lb aluminium flywheels available in US for about $400USD, but they are supposed to be hard to handle on an everyday basis, it's like learning to drive all over again with the clutch and throttle management.

Cheers,
Luke
 

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I know the reason for a lighter flywheel. I asked to see why YOU wanted to do it. It is a waste of time without doing serious engine mods, and generally produces idle and torque production issues if you go too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No serious mods have been done yet, but it seems to be a simple way to produce better acceleration, especially for this engine. The power band is after 4000rpm, so i figured it would be better to get there quicker.
I wouldn't be going overboard in the lightening, like i said maybe 4kgs or so.

What sort of idle issues? It shouldn't have too much effect on the driveability of the car should it? And torque production issues i know about, but can't see it coming into play as i don't do hills cause there aint many around here, and i don't tow or carry heavy loads.

Any other issues that you can think of i would like to hear about, but like i said, it's just an idea i'm thinking about.

Cheers
 

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IMO 4 kgs would be overboard. Most performance flywheels for cleveland, windsor, I6, chev, 308, etc (Admittedly all bigger stuff), only take 25% off the original weight. Poor idle will create a catch 22 as far as acceleration goes, as the car may stumble coming off idle and hence not run well into the midrange. I know of performance turbo cars that have gone to a heavier flywheel and returned better figures.
 

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Can't wait for Winton...
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The idle is worse because the inertia of the flywheel smoothes out the pulses of the engine firing at low speed. With a lighter flywheel the idle will be rougher and the car will be easier to stall, so you will have to use more revs to take off from standstill etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That wouldn't so much be a problem, more of an inconvience wouldn't it? i am the only driver of the car, so once i got used to the difference, i can't see it being a problem.
Like i said, it is a higher revving engine so the powerband is about 4k rpm, so it's not like i'm going to be sitting there smoking the tyres trying to take off.

Any other potential problems?
And thanks for the advice.
 

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you will effectivley burn the clutch up having to ride it alot more when taking off, when you get to a hill even a smallish one you will need heaps more pedal tto get the car up it, put passangers or luggage in and more throttle will be needed just to keep it rolling along at normal speeds.

Basically unless the car has the need for it dont bother, and machining 4kg of a factory style non eplosion proof flywheel is gona take your legs out.
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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Those flywheels could be lightened alittle they LOOK strong and well bolted on..
Look around the Jap importers and get the KLZE or 03 inlet throttle body etc will have extra 17 Kw..Or complete for $1k buy one complete, use existing distributor tho...
 

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grippin'n'rippin
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flywheel plays a vital role in the ballance of the bottom end in the way outback_ute described. There are many other things you can do to improve your cars performance without compromising drivebilty. But if thats the way you wanna go, by all means do and let us know how it goes.
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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At the revs these engines work at alittle would be o/k imo..As the inertia at those rpm would be high...It relies on revs with its short stroke...
 

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Fast but not Furious
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I bolted a fly wheel from a 1.8 ltr v6 from a eunos 30 X..
To my KLZE…

It can be gotten from a scrapy for ~100 bux..

this is one from a kfze 2lt v6 from an astina a bit heavier than the k8 (bit blurry)




this is the stock klde (klze/klde same/ same)

 

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Discussion Starter #15
And did you notice the difference? Was it much better in terms of acceleration? Did the positives(acceleration) win over the negatives if you had any?

Would you recommend it before or after any other mods?

Cheers.
 

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Fast but not Furious
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Well personally I swapped too many other components 2 the same time to notice the difference of “just” the fly..
But second hand info is that yes it revs out better. and no noticeable adverse affects..

But I would not just pull the box to do that only .. perhaps fit a nice HD clutch and an LSD or Phantom grip.. in preparation for the power mods..
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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Remember this motor is neutral ballanced and being 2.5 V6 it is a very smooth motor..Comparing U.S orientated engines to these doesn't mix...
For a start the weight of flywheel for the size of engine would be way heavier than a V8 thats possibly externally ballanced...
Don't get too carried away though.. Your biggest problem would be lightening it too much and weakening it..I have seen an RX3 almost cut in half when clutch let go, didn't stop at drivers legs either...
 
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