Ford Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well what i want is an ELXR6. I want to keep it for years to come. WHat i need to know is how much work is involved in getting this car in the high 13's - mid 14's for the quarter mile. (i just wanna be able drag off every wanker possible driving in anyway shape or form of a holden, as well as having a real nice ford i can be proud of).
Things i already know about that will need to be done:
Cam ofcourse, extractors, and a better exhaust and air itake system and that's about all i know lol
Can someone please explain what is required for each of these steps and an approximate cost. other things i think will need looking at are polishing and porting and maybesomesort of unichip.
As you read i want to keep this car for many years to come but i also want it to be able to be used most days just for driving round town. I am looking for good low-mid rpm torque as well as lost of horses throughout most of the rev range... is this asking a little to much or can it be done?
Although money is an issue right now as im still in school next year i plan to get a decent paying job.(somewhere in the security industry as that's where my dad works.) this should be fetching me around 500$ after tax a week and i will be living at home so my living expenses will be very minimal.

I also have a couple other questions off topic. what is a stall converter and what does it do and also what type of diff ratio should i be looking for? i'm thinking somewhere around 3.45 or up a little... i know i will need a fairly high ratio to get into the time bracket i'm after but i've read in street machine that with to high a ratio the car will be screaming at 4000+rpm cruising at 100kmh which aint normal...

well that's it. please feel free to criticise me as i am still only learning about all this stuff but any useful input would be very much appreaciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
well on u can get a 3.45 lsd diff which the xr6 should already have in it or you can go for a 3.9 or something along those lines... i wouldnt go higher than 3.45 if u got an auto as it will be reving high at 100kms... if u got manual u can change the last gear to a lower ratio oi think so it revs nice...
ull def need extractors and exhaust... should be able to pick up a nice system for about 700 ish... cams.. well there are that many threads on i6 cams around this place u should have a problem there... intake system u cant really do much with that will give u mass rwkw, proabaly bigger tickford snokrel and a k&n panel filter, i dont think you will be able to get high 13's i would say ud be lookin at mid 14's which is still pretty quick, all up ull proabally want to spend for a cam, exhaust, headers, diff, intake around 2 - 3 grand maybe... ud have to go get quotes... have a look at some of the jmm dev kits i think it is... also check out some of the stuff herrod has on offer...

btw do u have the car now or are you looking for one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
A set of 4:11's will have you revving in the high 2000 rpm mark!
3:7's or 3:9's would be a good ratio.
Extractors and exhaust along with some air intake mods are the first things for the list (ummm & $600-$1000ish). Then look at cam along with headwork. These two go hand in hand to work best and for the times your after you'll need both (varies$$$). These coupled with suitable diff gear change should see you in the 14's somewhere.
One of the best people to talk to is Jim Mock. i'm pretty sure he has a web site and will have all the info you need to see low 14's or low 13's.

The other way to go is Turbo and probably is one of the more successfull to see easy
13's and better.

Torque converters are between the trans and the engine and help in the transfer of power at certain revs. In your application you need to work out what cam etc your going to use to determine what stall canverter will work best. I have mildly strong 14 second setup with a moderate (for efi) camshaft that reqires around a 2500 stall converter. A higher stall converter is alo known (more accurately) as a looser stall converter. This is because they allow a degree of 'slip' in the transfer of power up to the desired revs (2500rpm in my case) which allows my engine to not be too much underload until it is within it's powerband. Once above this rpm range the converter is in full lockup allowing no slip to occur and full power and torque from the engine to be transferred through thge trans to where we want it. AT THE WHEELS! :)
At the moment my ute is in getting my converter fixed because it is stalling at around 3500 rpm which is far too high. It needs to stall at peak. torque or just before to get best results.
The exact definitions i am unsure of but i'm sure someone will add to my loose description.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
ArT1sT said:
btw do u have the car now or are you looking for one?
I am looking for one.. first of all i need tofinish school and get a job then a bank loan......... i've already seen the one i want but im sure it will be gone by now., it was in the trader.. 1997 ELXR6 with full options........ 17" AUXR8 mags and only 65,500KM!!!!!!!!!!!............ and this only gunna set me back 18grand........... then another 2-3 grand on making it faster.

loxxr6 said:
Supercharge or turbo the bastard.
I want to keep it NA. one for insurance reasons and 2 because.... well just because
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
BTW....... i want a manual... get more power... not speed limited...... and quicker off the mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I just like the idea of no restictions lol. and who wouldn't want a manual. i haven't driven one but i want one lol.

Who can i see about removing that 6000rev limiter.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Well if you remove the 6000 rpm limiter i think that your best mod will to be buy a new engine after you blow that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,447 Posts
ArT1sT said:
id highly suggest getting a manual... take ur time and look around for a good one... ull enjoy it just that little bit more :p
Do exactly that, take ure SWEET ass time finding one, dont rush in like i did because the car was cheap... 13,700 to be exact. Low 14's i think is highly acheivable with a manual NA XR6. You just have to get the job done properly and take time in doing it.

Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,447 Posts
gazza_86 said:
Well if you remove the 6000 rpm limiter i think that your best mod will to be buy a new engine after you blow that one.
LOL 6k? Damn straight it would blow! Mine cut out when i revved bounced around a corner and it was making FK all torque/power. Theres no point unless you increase the bore/shorten the stroke :)

Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
792 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
pssst i was using a bit of sarcasm in asking who i could see to remove it.......
 

·
Birth, Drift, Death...
Joined
·
3,039 Posts
it should do 6k no worries, and if the head/cam/exhaust are all matched it will be making good power then as well - i dont think thats an unrealistic amount of revs.

mate i think the best thing you can do is get a 3.9 LSD, manual, very sticky tyres, big port job on the head to flow like 350hp, cam to match, exhaust to match, computer tuned to match all that, and drive it like a man posessed, and you should see at least mid 14s, but probably very low 14s.
 

·
sexy ED XR
Joined
·
2 Posts
hey art1st i have a ed xr6 with auto do u know how much trouble to drop in a manual. box, peddle box, flywheel obvisiouly but what about computer??
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
About this Discussion
17 Replies
11 Participants
clevo400
Ford Forums
Ford Forum is a community to discuss all things Ford. Check out our discussions on the Ford Escape, Mustang, Edge, F-150, Raptor, Explorer, Focus, Fusion, Fiesta and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top