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The rattling in the intake manifold could be loose broad band valves in the upper plenum. Check that tension spring. Sound like the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer is starting to seperate and therefore the balancer should be replaced before it fails catastrophivcally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I replaced the timing chain tentioner plus harmonic balancer and all the pullys plus the exhaust
It is a lot better.Tomorrow i take it for a run. I let you know
Thanks for all your help. Just keeping you in the loop.
 

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To remove the sump and replace the gasket, you have to either pull the engine out (or at least lift it with an engine crane high enough to get the sump out past the K frame) or remove the whole K frame cross member to get the sump off (not the preferred approach).
It's really much easier (and safer) to just pull the motor completely out and secure it on an engine stand while you replace the sump gasket. While it might sound daunting, it's actually something you should be easily be able to do over a long weekend with some occasional help from friends or family (help is needed with things like guiding the engine out over the radiator so nothing is damaged while you roll the crane and engine back and holding the bonnet vertically up for you after you have removed the struts and are placing broomsticks or similar under the bonnet to support it in this near vertical position). With experience (and the self confidence and greater enthusiasm that comes with having previously done it) it can be done in a day. It gets shorter each time you do this job but the first time will always take a longer. Whatever way you go, the support rails between the sump and the transmission also have to be removed and the transmission supported with a transmission jack or a strong bar placed between the subframe rails near the firewall or better an engine support bar like this or similar: Aeroflow AF98-2065 Engine Support Bar To Assist K Frame Removal | eBay (although the first time I did this I just bought some square section tubing from Bunnings that I cut to length to fit the subframe rails so that the transmission could rest on it after I had lifted the transmission slightly with a transmission jack). It might sound like a challenge and a lot of work, but in reality even for a novice (and you are no longer that) it's not that hard if you have the correct tools and follow the step by step procedures in the factory workshop manual. The biggest challenge is actually removing (and harder refitting) the fasteners that hold the starter motor near the bell housing - it needs lots of socket bar extensions taped together working from under the car to the rear. And other forum members and I am on hand to help as needed. So at a minium you probably you need buy or hire one of these SCA Engine Crane Folding 1000kg and these SCA Engine Crane Leveller 540kg and SCA Engine Stand 450kg
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
You’re right about the timing chain being the problem, yes it was rubbing on a guide. I agree about pulling the motor, but i just used the rattle gun on the flex plate cover/sump and it’s just stripping the nuts. So if I’m pulling the motor, I’ll be doing the gear box and all, because I can’t get any bolts off. which I guess will be a lot harder to do. What’s your thoughts on that?
 

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I assume the sump gasket is leaking. If it's just from where it meets the timing cover, it may be easier just to replace the head gasket again and more carefully seal the sump to timing chain cover again. EDIT: (OK I just saw you reply). So are you are asking if you can pull the transmission and engine as a complete assembly?
 

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...If so if you want to pull the engine and transmission as one assembly you will have to do it by removing the K-Frame and then lifting the body up and away.....or cut the radiator support bracket off and in doing so make the car unroadworthy (like this
or
:) ) The bolts that attach the torque convertor and transmission to the engine should be relatively easy to undo with normal spanners and sockets and ratchets that are long enough to give sufficient leverage. However, the factory workshop manual Section 8-2-25 does say it can be done more easily as an assembly than I assumed and does detail how the engine and transmission can be removed as one assembly. You will just need that you are working in a space that has sufficient head room that will allow the required amount of vertical lifting space and with a engine crane and engine leveller that will allow you to get the assembly high enough and at the right (and relatively steep angle) to clear the radiator support. You'll probably also have to completely remove the bonnet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I tried ring spanners sockets breaker bars, even the rattle gun, which just started to strip the nuts. and they wouldnt budge. Whoever tightned them last, or did something that i dont understand. Theyre as tight as hell. The sump isnt leaking, but the gasket where the timing chain case sits, is pretty damaged and stretched. Im at wits end as to how i can reseat the timing chain cover without any leaks. Thats my major concern. You've helped me learn so much, I'm confident to lift the motor, with or without the gearbox, it just seems a major job, for a stretched, damaged rubber seal. But ill do what i have to. Thanks again for all your wise words.
 

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This may sound patronising but it's not meant to be. In any event, are you sure you are trying to turn them the in the correct direction as it's very easy when laying under a car and facing away from the bolt head to get disorientated and start turning nut and bolts in the wrong direction so you are actually trying to tighten rather than loosen them. (Edit: Even after 50 plus years of working on cars I can still have occasional issues with this and can often be found under my car lift turning a ratchet in mid air while turning it away from me and muttering "Lefty Loosey, righty tighty except for when upside down or back to fronty." My family and friend will probably attribute it to ageing and senility but I blame spatial awareness issues relating to growing up with double vision. While my double vision was corrected by surgery when I was 16 and before that my brain had adapted two bring the two images I saw together each time I refocused. But fast bowlers in cricket had me beat as I was never sure which of the two balls I saw to hit with which of the two bats I could see.) If it's just the timing cover gasket I would just remove the head again and replace that the seal. Make sure you also check that the timing time cover and sump there is not warped or bent (check with a straight edge or laser light). Pulling the engine won't solve a seal between the sump and the timing cover. You can also try cheating and cleaning the area thoroughly and smearing some suitable high quality gasket sealant over the outside of the leaking area. Not my preferred solution but I have seen lots do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Don't worry, I have done that a number of times. I always check both ways now. Taking the head off is not a problem, the sump/timing chain gasket is all in one piece. Where the timing cover hits the sump, the gasket is bad and stretched. Ive attached photos .Ill wait to hear your advice, before i order another gasket.
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You can get gaskets that have separate half moon pieces e.g. Durapro Oil Pan Sump Gasket suits Ford Falcon AU-AU III 4.0 Litre (SOHC 12 Valve | eBay and Durapro Oil Pan Sump Gasket suits Ford Falcon AU-AU III (VCT Tickford) 4.0 Litre | eBay so you could probably just use a half moon piece and cut the old gasket square at the joining point. You could also carefully cut the required piece from one of those continuous sump gaskets. Whatever you do just make sure you cut the mating point of the existing gasket squarely with sharp trimming knife (brand new blade) and apply sealant in the same way as where the timing cover meets the head per Figure 32a Section 82-2-18 of the factory workshop manual. My only major concern is that the cause could be that the harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley may have been hammered on rather than using an installer tool at some point so the end play has been damaged to the point that crankshaft has excess movement and is pushing out the gasket (and perhaps causing some of the engine noise you had). If this is the case, ultimately, and sooner than you expect, the backward and forward movement of the crankshaft in the block will destroy the main bearing caps and cause other internal engine damage. I would be using a dial indicator to check the end play at the harmonic balancer end of the crank before going further. End play is usually checked with the engine out during engine assembly per section 8-1-11 of the workshop manual but you can do it in the car (albeit with some difficulty) following the method used at the start of this video and very gently levering on the pulley with a long screwdriver to move the crank:

Per Section 8-5-3 of the workshop manual the maximum crankshaft end play wear limit is 0.30 mm and normally should be between 0.10 and 0,20 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
End play by hand is 0.20 max. With a lever using a lot of pressure it will go to 0.35 plus Problem?
If you think i should go ahead and put it back together, on the gasket i showed you, Id have to cut before the s bends. Problem 2. Where I'm situated, its nearly impossible to get a good second hand AU motor. A rebuild will cost me an arm and a leg, but i cant think of what else to do.
 

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Sounds marginal (especially given the seal was pushed out) as normally you would test it by prying the crank in both directions per
and
Are you measuring on the center of the balancer bolt noting the the balancer has a rubber sandwhich layer that will allow the edge of the pulley to move out from the center when levered? I think you could do a rebuild yourself relatively cheaply as it's probably just new gaskets, bearings, cylinder honing and piston rings and perhaps six new pistons. I think you have demonstrated you have the required nous to do it yourself and I think you would find it rewarding and satisfying. What state are you in? There are companies that will ship rebuilt or second hand warrantied engine all over Australia. Is there a wreckers nearby; if so, even if the don't have one on hand they are all usually linked into a network of wreckers and should be able to source one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I'm in north east victoria. My local wreckers closed because of covid, and the rare few nearby don't have shit. I owe you a thanks again, I did do it on the edge of the balancer. (something ill never do again). I just did it in the centre. 0.12 each way. All up about 0.23. I will do a rebuild. After summer, as i use the AU during summer for fishing. Looking forward to a Winter rebuild. All your helpful advise, is greatly appreciated. The tapping is im thinking the gearbox/flex plate. The bolts are nearly impossible to undo. Looks like im lifting the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Thanks, I seem to have a lot of carbon build up, which concerns me a bit. Here are some photos to see what you think.
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*Do you have a recommendation on which sealant to use for joining the sump gaskets?
(thanks, again)
 
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