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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Well, no difference taking leads off. (a couple of shocks). Where is the best place to get the parts for a rebuild? I'm using this car for my apprenticeship. Looks like no fishing this year! As i said, getting a good second hand motor around here is impossible . What sort of money do you think I'm looking at (parts wise)
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
I’m getting all the bits and pieces ready for a rebuild, as I believe the gearbox is going to need heat to get it out. I think someone used heavy duty loctite on it. I don’t understand why, the ford is fine on startup, and it takes two or three minutes before it stars taping! Any ideas why that is? ?
 

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don’t understand why, the ford is fine on startup, and it takes two or three minutes before it stars taping! Any ideas why that is? ?
It may simply be that as the engine warms the oil gets thinner and any worn bearing etc get noiser. See The engine knocks after it warms up. What are the causes? etc But also check all the exhaust fasteners including those under the heat shield; loose or broken exhaust nuts and studs etc will typically start rattling once warm. Also check the exhaust heat shielding near the catalytic convertor or it's fasteners aren't loose. If you can afford it, it might be worth changing toa different grade of oil as previously indicated. I assume you changed the oil filter each time you changed the oil since the first issue that lead to all this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
By the time i get every thing i need for a rebuild it will be just after Christmas i will start.
What size bars do you think i should use in the engine bay, and where do you recommend i get them.
On rebuild, Im going to try to get more horsepower out of the engine. even as far as going to put a turbo on it. Will you be able to talk me through some of this? Im pretty confident to put the turbo in, , but i want to get the most out of this engine. Someone said low compression is better for turbo, but it doesn't sound right to me?
 

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You'll also probably find it easier and cheaper to transplant an already turbocharged engine from a newer written off model. DIY turbocharging tends to end up being more complex and expensive than people anticipate. You will also need to get someone to provide and engineering certification before it can be registered.
 

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Extractors from any of the major suppliers (Lukey, Genie, Pacemaker etc) with a matching 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system won't cost much and will give a noticeable torque increase, a nice sound and won't hurt fuel economy or engine durability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Do you know much about car diagnostic tools? My query is which one is best, and how detailed are the results. I'm curious if the pick up stuff like bearing, rings, etc. Or not.
Again, much appreciated for all your help.
Go Fords!
 

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Electronic diagnostic tools won't tell you a lot about valves, rings and bearing etc. They will tell you about ignition and fuel injection issues. With those internal engine component items items you are back to full or partial teardowns with physical examinations and old fashioned diagnostic tools such as vacuum gauges and compression (or better if you have a comprssor, leak-down testers).

If you do want to use electronic code readers etc on the AU Forscan (see https://forscan.org/download.html) using a widows based laptop with this OBDLink® EX - OBD2 Adapter For ELM327 & FORScan or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094Z7PBLS or (and less so) a USB ELM327 with a Ford Switch (e.g. ELM327 USB Modified For Ford ELMconfig latest HS-CAN Switch CH340 Chip Converted | eBay) . Avoid the wireless and wifi based tools as they are much slower and suffer from connectivity issues.


If price is no object I prefer the Autel range (see Autel Australia and Autel MK906BT MS906BT OBD2 All Systems Diagnostic Scanner Tool ECU KEY Coding | eBay but these (even this one Autel AL619 Car OBD2 SRS ABS Diagnostic Scanner Fault Code Reader Scan Tool | eBay ) all are an overkill for an AU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
I have done a leak down test with a hose from the compression tester and an air compressor. All the air went to the sump on each cylinder. I am a little bit worried about putting a naked flame to the bolts on the gear box. Do you know of a better way to heat them up, (for easier removal). I dont even know if Ill be able to get the gear box out! * What size bar should i use, just in case i need to get a second lift on the motor?
 

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You could try freeze spray instead of heat e.g. T3084A Freezer Spray Non Flammable Aerosol 300g - Altronics or Freezing Spray Can | Jaycar Electronics . Usually, just as effective as heat as it's about getting the two parts (nut and bolt) to expand or contact differently. But you can also use a combination; freeze spray then just a little heat from a BIC lighter or similar. This should do: Australian Handyman Supplies 30 x 30 x 2.0mm x 2.0m Painted Square Hollow Section Steel if you are just looking for something to put between the chassis rails to support the transmission while the engine is out.
 
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