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Ex Member
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Discussion Starter #1
ive been driving around an EF for 2 years, before i stuffed it up and traded it in, i now bought a NFII fairlane ghia v8, mainly because i've too much of a lead foot and wanted a slower car.

my problem is, that it just feels like its got the agillity of the titanic around corners in comparison to my lowered EF, I would like to lower my fairlane, and put some 17" alloys, (if they fit) on it, but i was told, because i have a load leveling kit installed, its not advisable to lower my car, is this a crock or what ?

its got 80,000ks on the clock, would the shocks be at replacement stage?
 

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1,120 Posts
I am not a fan of the SLS and with 80km the shocks are getting close to needing a replacement. I would do away with the SLS and just get it lowered with good quality springs and shocks. 17 inch wheels will fit under the Fairlane (they fitted on the EL GT). The Fairlane is aimed at the 50+ age group who generally like cars that handle like boats. :s6: I know my dad does:crazy1:

You say you had an EF then wanted a slower car so you got an EF Fairlane with a V8? What was your old EF? some kind of modified rocket was it? How did you screw it?
 

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Ex Member
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717 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'm affraid as the EF was only my second car, i didnt treat it very well indeed, it was basicly constantly thrashed, redlined, and i even had it rearended to. the auto was getting very sloppy in changing gears and started shuddering at take off. the diff also had chipped a tooth, the engine tho, after 2 years of abuse, still ran perfectly, everytime without fail, and i never even had to change the head gasket, like so many EF owners do.

it was gunmetal greay, lowered with 16" wheels and low profile tyres, and it had a 2.5" exhuast, cat back with a SS tip on the end. So many memories in the back seat of that car....

And even tho the EF was a I6 it was still faster than my V8 fairlane and beat V8 Ef's when it was still good. no engine modifications were done at all.
 

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Ex Member
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Discussion Starter #4
gregorys

i have the gregorys repair manual for the EF if anyone wants it, im in perth, its a hard cover version in mint condition.
 

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Chromed Member
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1,810 Posts
yep, i agree with bof, ditch the sls springs and shocks and put some nice low ones in there. Make sure you pull the 30amp circuit breaker out (from the fuse box next to the coloumn) and remove and cable tie up the sensor arm that goes onto the diff.
Otherwise youll have that stupid light on all the time and beeping its head off. Ive done this conversion heaps of time, and yes 17" do fit, or any wheels off an ea -> el for that matter.:s3
 

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300+rwkw DC LTD Member
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SLS

My beast also has it and I don't like it either. I loweredit about two inches. The SLS is adustable up or should I say down, to 1.5 inches.

I still haven't solved it yet. I haven't got air shocks in the back, and all I did was pull out the relay for the compresser. The computer still tells me the car is sitting too low, but hey..

The LTD has 17" wheels which fit no sweat.
 

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how SLS works, basically anyway.....

there is a sensor on the diff that measures the load placed on the shocks. If you have a big load, eg trailer, 234 slabs in the boot the back of the car will be under greater weight. The sensor sends this signal to the compressor module, which turns the relay on and pumps air into the shocks (back only) until it gets a vehicle level signal back from the sls sensor. there is an air line which runs all the way from the compressor to the back shocks, which is disconnected when standard type shocks are fitted.

To test sls

Turn the ignition key to the on position.

open drivers door.

Tap the door light switch in the pillar, 5 times in 5 seconds (i thinks)

This should operate the compressor and raise the rear of the vehcile to full height, then relieve the system to lowest height.

well something like that anyway
:s3 :s2: :s6: :sleep: :crazy1:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sls

ok, im going to give those instructions of yours a try, and ill see what happens..

if they arent air shocks then the system wouldnt work anyway by the sounds of it and its a waste of time..

ill be back
 

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Ex Member
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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, i had a look

As soon as i put the key into the on position the compressor starts up and the rear of the car raises about a cm, then when i take the key out, it waits a few seconds and then it releases the pressure, i tried using the door switch but nothing happend.

the rear shock absorbers are realy sloppy and bounce over speed humps, i realy cant be bothered taking out the sls system so i think ill just put new shock absorbers in. are these air shocks hard to change?? ive only ever changed regular ones, should i get someone else to do it ?

the front ones should be straight forward like normal ones shouldnt they ?
 

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personally, id recommend pulling the air shocks out....you probably will anyway once you realise that you can get a good set of rear shocks AND spring for the rear for about the cost of one new air shock!!!

Changing springs and shocks is relatively easy. Easier if you can use a hoist and get hold of some spring commpressors.

Front shocks are same as EA - EL. :s3
 
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