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2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LS Ultimate Edition
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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry in advance for such a long post, any help is appreciated!

I’ve recently purchased a 1998 Lincoln town car to flip. I got it cheap, the reason for that is because it doesn’t run.
The previous owner got it from his father who moved to another state. The PO drove it to his house, parked it for a year, went to start it and nothing. Now it’s in my possession
The car will crank but not fire up. But it will run on starter fluid momentarily.
Here’s a few things I’ve discovered.

• The fuel pump doesn’t seem to prime, when I set the key to the run position I don’t hear any priming. If you were to get underneath the car and listen you can hear a slight purging type noise that only lasts a split second.

• The fuel pump does work. I dropped the tank and put 12v jumpers on the pump and got the pump to run and spit whatever fuel was left in it out. Put the pump back in, still nothing, just cranking.

• The connector to the pump gets 10.6V with a charged battery when the key is set to run

• I don’t seem to be getting any pressure at the rails, when pressing the schrader valve on the rail with a screwdriver only enough fuel comes out to barley spill over the valve

• When I go to start the vehicle. The red PATS light flashes rapidly. We put a code reader on the car and got a P1260- “Theft detected engine disabled”. I should note that the car has 2 keys and no fob. One key seems to be the original Lincoln key, it unlocks all of the doors and trunk but won’t turn in the ignition barrel. The other key is aftermarket and won’t unlock the doors or trunk but will turn in the ignition barrel.

My question is, do you all think this is most likely a PATS issue or a pump issue? I’ve received information that the only reason PATS was triggered is because the vehicle had several failed starting attempts (that doesn’t make any sense to me). Some say that PATS stops spark which makes me wonder why it ran off of starting fluid if it is PATS causing this. I’m trying to flip is so obviously I don’t want to waste money on programming a key or buying a pump if I don’t need it
Any insight would be helpful!
Thank you- Nick.
 

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2000 grand marquis ls with handling package, magnaflow mufflers,dual exhaust, 3.55 rear axle
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70 Posts
Sorry in advance for such a long post, any help is appreciated!

I’ve recently purchased a 1998 Lincoln town car to flip. I got it cheap, the reason for that is because it doesn’t run.
The previous owner got it from his father who moved to another state. The PO drove it to his house, parked it for a year, went to start it and nothing. Now it’s in my possession
The car will crank but not fire up. But it will run on starter fluid momentarily.
Here’s a few things I’ve discovered.

• The fuel pump doesn’t seem to prime, when I set the key to the run position I don’t hear any priming. If you were to get underneath the car and listen you can hear a slight purging type noise that only lasts a split second.

• The fuel pump does work. I dropped the tank and put 12v jumpers on the pump and got the pump to run and spit whatever fuel was left in it out. Put the pump back in, still nothing, just cranking.

• The connector to the pump gets 10.6V with a charged battery when the key is set to run

• I don’t seem to be getting any pressure at the rails, when pressing the schrader valve on the rail with a screwdriver only enough fuel comes out to barley spill over the valve

• When I go to start the vehicle. The red PATS light flashes rapidly. We put a code reader on the car and got a P1260- “Theft detected engine disabled”. I should note that the car has 2 keys and no fob. One key seems to be the original Lincoln key, it unlocks all of the doors and trunk but won’t turn in the ignition barrel. The other key is aftermarket and won’t unlock the doors or trunk but will turn in the ignition barrel.

My question is, do you all think this is most likely a PATS issue or a pump issue? I’ve received information that the only reason PATS was triggered is because the vehicle had several failed starting attempts (that doesn’t make any sense to me). Some say that PATS stops spark which makes me wonder why it ran off of starting fluid if it is PATS causing this. I’m trying to flip is so obviously I don’t want to waste money on programming a key or buying a pump if I don’t need it
Any insight would be helpful!
Thank you- Nick.
I would change the fuel filter.
 

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2000 grand marquis ls with handling package, magnaflow mufflers,dual exhaust, 3.55 rear axle
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I would change the fuel filter.
You might want to check out the wires to the ignition transceiver.
In the 1998 thru 2002 Town Car models a PATS failure to recognize the ign key will cause the PCM to disable the engine and prevent the engine from starting. The common culprit is the transceiver which is located around the ign key lock switch. Usually the wiring is stretched by the steering wheel column tilt adjustment and the stretched wires cause intermittent failure and then the wire breaks and there is complete failure. To fix this problem the transceiver must be replaced with its wiring harness.
 

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2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LS Ultimate Edition
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Discussion Starter #4
You might want to check out the wires to the ignition transceiver.
In the 1998 thru 2002 Town Car models a PATS failure to recognize the ign key will cause the PCM to disable the engine and prevent the engine from starting. The common culprit is the transceiver which is located around the ign key lock switch. Usually the wiring is stretched by the steering wheel column tilt adjustment and the stretched wires cause intermittent failure and then the wire breaks and there is complete failure. To fix this problem the transceiver must be replaced with its wiring harness.
Sounds expensive, just what I needed out of a dirt cheap car. I’ll check to fuel filter today and get back with you. I spoke to a Ford dealer and they think that the ignition barrel has been replaced and the key simply went bad. I’ll look into it some more. Thanks for the help!
 

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2000 grand marquis ls with handling package, magnaflow mufflers,dual exhaust, 3.55 rear axle
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Sounds expensive, just what I needed out of a dirt cheap car. I’ll check to fuel filter today and get back with you. I spoke to a Ford dealer and they think that the ignition barrel has been replaced and the key simply went bad. I’ll look into it some more. Thanks for the help!
Let us know how it turns out so we can all learn a from your experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Let us know how it turns out so we can all learn a from your experiences.
Took off the fuel filter, lots of black liquid came out the ends of it but it wasn’t clogged. I should note that when I removed the fuel line going into the filter there was a decent amount of pressurized fuel behind it.

I took a video of fuel coming out of the line when setting the key to run. When cranking no fuel would come out of the lines. The “prime” seems pretty weak to me; maybe because it’s only getting about 10.6V to the connector? So I’m at a complete loss on if it’s PATS or not. With my luck it’s probably a combination of both.

here’s a link to the video
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: I wrapped tin foil around the aftermarket key and held the original key next to it while inserting it into the barrel and the PATS light was solid. Still wouldn’t start. However, there was more fuel pressure coming out of the pump when the PATS light was solid than before. We took of the pump from the sender assembly and got it to prime twice by putting jumpers on it then it locked up permanently. Ordered a new pump. I’ll keep this thread updated
 
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