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Discussion Starter #1
Let's get some pictures of your Panthers. It'll be nice to see what everyone has. We can use this as the gathering point for our photos.

Who wants to start?
 

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Not much yet, removed emissions controls, removed ac comp, reemed the cats, advanced timing 6 deg, exhaust stops at the front doors. I would like to get some weight out of it. This winter im gonna rebuild the rearend. Probably put 3.55 gears in it, and a ford racing 8.8 posi unit. Then ill start messing with the motor. I need to convert to MAF. After that I want to install a cam, heads, hoter ignition, trick flow intake, and shortys. I havent decided on what im gonna do about the trans, i guess i just wait till it messes up. I ran a 17.52 last trip to the track .070 R/T. I dont think thats to bad for a stock car that weights 4150 with the driver in it.:driver:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you sure it's 4150? Did you put it on a scale for those numbers? Mine's 4020 with a full tank of gas and no driver... and it's a wagon.

You'll need to go HO if you're converting to MAF unless you can miraculously find a 1991 standard output Panther sold in California. I'd recommend doing the rear end with the gears (3.55 is good for DD), then find an aluminum driveshaft at the junk yard if you don't already have one. From there, shift kit in the transmission, possibly a stall converter if you're keeping the AOD. Worry about your engine last.

Looks good, though. That 17.52 isn't too bad for being so stock.

Who's up next?
 

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Yes, my car is 3832 with full tank. Im 6'5 320 so im guessing its around 4150. I have never had it on a scale. Hopefully this weekend i will get to. As far as the motor goes im thinking just swaping it out with a mustang ho 302 instead of converting this motor will be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Whether you convert the current motor or "just swap in" a 302 HO, you still have a lot of work to do to get the conversion right. I was "just swapping in" a GT40P (Explorer motor) and T5 and it took me eight months to get it right.

Come on, guys- who's next to post up some pictures?
 

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I'm having trouble uploading my picture, but I have lots of pix at my Car Domain account:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2439326

It's a 351W police interceptor with 2-barrel intake, 4-speed AOD, 2.73:1 rear axle, and dual exhaust (with glasspacks, of course).

Future modifications include:
--4-barrel intake (already have the manifold and carb, just have to find time to install them)
--Mustang shorty headers (again, have them, just not installed yet)
--more free-flowing mufflers
--exhaust cutouts
--remove catalytic converters :shh:

Modifications I'd like to do but may never get around to:
--T5 Trans swap (same as Freshmeat)
--paint
--Nitrous Oxide (this is a BIG maybe--can't afford high octane gas!)
--MSD or equivalent ignition system
--engine rebuild


Nathan in MN (now in MI for college)
--
 

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Here are pics of my car on cardomain, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/532395. The car is a 90 CV with 302 that is pretty much stock except for exhaust, I have the factory manifolds going into the fours cats then dumped at the cut-outs I just had installed and it sounds mean, Then from there into a flowtech warlock racing muffler for when I have to go for emissions.
Furture mods are to upgrade my rear gears from 2.73 to 4.10 with the posi I got off ebay from a mustang with only 5,000 miles on it. Also a PA street/strip valvebody. And then motor and torque converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
amo, just get the Transgo S/K kit on eBay. I paid $49 shipped and had it within a week. Only took an afternoon to install it, including draining the transmission and pulling the V/B. The hardest part was getting the servo springs installed, but that wasn't too bad once I got pissed enough to man up to the C clips. Made a great, daily-driveable difference. While it was off I installed a pan drain plug... drove it like that for probably 800 miles then stripped out everything for the GT40P/T5 conversion. Ha!
The 4.10s and posi will really wake it up, though.
 

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I would go with the shift kit but we just moved and I have no place to install it myself and for a local shopes to install it they want around $250+, with the valvebody they only want $100 to install and I can get the part for $150 shipped to my house.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That works well, too. Good thinking to ask around and compare your prices.
They're a reputable company and you should be satisfied with your product.
 

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Discussion Starter #13




Hey- what's all that for?


Bling bling- 200amp alternator!


Wait... something's... not... quite... Hmm...


Videos to be posted as soon as possible.
 
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