[Rdiggidy]

Well I've got a few days off from work next week and I'm going to tackle changing VCG adding phenos and painting my manifold and VC....

I know very little about cars and this will be my biggest "car job" I've done, but from the sounds of things if I just take my time and mark my hoses I think I'll be alright (also I know i've got people to ask when....not if, I mess something up). I've been reading up some on porting the manifold while it's off and it seems like it's definately worth the time and effort, but I was unable to find a how to on porting (PT's search really sucks!!)

*Dose anyone know a site or anywhere I can get instructions on how to do this (Preferable would be Porting Manifold for 93 Mazda Mx-6 LS for Dummies , but I'll accept just about anything!

*Would anyone suggest that I'm not up to this task on my own (very possible).

ANy other suggestions comments etc!!

Thanks alot for any help!!

 

[Dan [Sac]]

Unfortunately there isn't a standardized way of doing this because everyone has done their own way, and no one has flow-benched the manifolds before and after to actually determine the airflow increase amount.

The key is to go slow and make sure you don't take too much material off. Knife edging the VRIS plates/passage walls is a good way to go. You may also want to thoroughly clean the IM internally - that itself is almost as good as porting. Soak it in carb cleaner - you'll see that the whole interior is coated with a carbon-like material from the EGR gasses.

When you look at your Throttle Body you will see that it has a small "step" in it - grinding that step smooth is called "coning" (you make the TB in a cone shape).

Personally I don't think it's worth enlarging the ports where the air exits the IM and goes into the heads - since you won't be enlarging the ENTIRE runner, it seems just useless to enlarge the port opening - not to mention that you'd have to port-match the heads and the gaskets (or phenolic spacers).

So the biggest job is to knife edge the areas after the TB, and to cone the TB nicely. I wouldn't worry about trying to bore out the TB - unless you have the right tools/experience, you're more likely to damage the thing that make it right.

 

[Dan [Sac]]

RE: IM removal

Ok, now onto taking that beast off....you are taking the right approach - be methodical, mark every single vacuum line (you'll get annoyed after a while, but it's worth it to be patient). Try not to force anything - if it doesn't come off easy, there is something else holding it back.

The manual says that you have to drain the coolant for this - you don't have to, really. They say this because the throttle body is water cooled, and it has 2 hoses that go in and out of it that carry coolant. Getting these hoses off will be almost impossible - what I do is cut them and simply replace them once the IM is off. Have some rags handy, as you will lose a small amount of coolant from these 2 hoses.

Fuel line: - have another small rag handy - you will lose a little bit of fuel when removing the fuel line from the fuel rail - DON'T LOSE THE COPPER CRUSH BOLTS - there is one on either side of the banjo bolt.

Before you start removing anything, you should relieve the fuel pressure - follow manual instructions on this.

 

[Dan [Sac]]

Other surprises and tricks

It would be VERY useful to your back and your sanity if you could remove the hood when you remove the IM - the extra room will amaze you.

There is one bolt at the back of the IM that holds a bracket (it's a 12mm bolt I think) - that will be a pain in the ASS to remove. You'll know what I'm talking about when you get to it - you don't have to put this one back when you reinstall the IM - that bracket is already FIRMLY bolted to the head.

Throttle cable - this one may seem intimidating, but it just slides off the throttle groove - you have to open the plate all the way, then slide it over off the groove, then the end cap will come out of its slot. Pretty easy, just take a good look at it so you'll remember how it goes back.

The VRIS vacuum solenoids should just slide off with the vacuum line.

There are 5 electrical connectors you must undo at the front (VAF side) and 2 in the back (top) of the IM. Be especially careful with the TPS (Throttle position sensor) connector that plugs in the TB - those suckers are expensive!

 

[Dan [Sac]]

Painting

Make sure the IM is thoroughly clean on the outside - sand it with a high-grit sand paper (420 or higher). You can also use the dremel or other porting tool to round out the runners (they have the weld-like mark running in the middle of every runner on the outside).

Follow general paint procedure (primer/paint/clear coat) found on the cans that you will be using.

Make sure you are careful with the injectors and the fuel rail - don't try to clean them or let dirt get in by storing it in a dusty/windy area.

Use masking tape to cover the ports.

Most importantly, take your time

 

[Dan [Sac]]

Putting it all together

Finally, you're ready for the re-install....

I suggest doing this next day or after a few days so that the pain has cured nicely and isn't still gooey.

It is now more important than ever to be patient and work slowly, because if you drop a bold, drag a harness or do something else you might scratch the IM.

Reinstall everything in the reverse order of removal - whatever you took off last goes back first, etc.

It's VERY imprtant that when you re-install the Valve COvers and the IM you torque down the bolts to the specs mentioned in the book. Otherwise you'll either still leak oil, or you'll crack the VCs. WIth the IM you could warp the head surface if you over tighten it.

Finally, do a thorough check of everything and start it up

Don't forget any rags in any ports when you re-install stuff - don't forget to plug in all elecrical connectors - including the VAF connector when you re-install the intake. Don't forget the fuel line to the fuel rail with a copper crush washer on either side of the banjo bolt. Make sure all the vacuum lines are in, the throttle cable is back on securely, the VRIS units are on, etc....

Good luck! If you have any questions, just post them here and Tony or I will help ya out.

 

[Rdiggidy]

:nuts: Awesome!! Thanks so much for taking all that time to write all that out!!

 

[Dan [Sac]]

No problem... :damack:

 

[Rdiggidy]

Alright few problems, I don't think it's anything serious, but I could use you all's expertise:

*Right between the two cylinder heads (the manifold would cover it if it were on) is a silver pipe. The silver pipe leads to a black hose, this hose leads to another pipe that is kinda a "T" (it goes down further in the engine or keeps going straight) if you follow it straight there is a plastic piece that hooks onto the metal "T" and a new hose starts. Well I need to replace this hose that's after the T, but don't know how to disconnect the plastic "clip" (not really a clip, but don't know what other word to use) so I can replace the hose.

It's probably a horrible description, but I'm not too good with my car terminology right now. Let me know if you don't know what I'm talkin about.

*Ok the VRIS actuators are held on with a little clip. Now say a guy popped those clips off and then lost them would he go to mazda to get those or just an auto parts store and what size are they and what are they called??

Well if nothing else my poor desrciptions and lack of vocabulary should make this questions some what challenging

 

[Dan [Sac]]

The rubber hose between the heads....it says in the Haynes manual to replace it every time the IM is removed, but I never did it and have not seen anywhere that it's really necessary to do so...

You can take the clip to your local Kragen or Napa and see if they carry some universal similar clip.

 

[Dan [Sac]]

I think i remember the clips you are talking about now - super small, "C"-type metal rings/clips...I didn't replace mine, and the VRIS arms aren't coming off the butterfly arm...(yet)....

Yes, your local auto parts store should carry those

 

[Rdiggidy]

I tried to take that hose off when I was pulling off the manifold/TB (further down....when it was closer to the TB so I could get access to something) and it cracked. So I don't really have a choice in replacing it, but that clip that hooks it on to that T doesn't seem like it will come off. And I don't see how it suppose to. I don't know if you need some tool or if there is a trick or if I could get a new one if I borke it

And yes they are the C clips, but I don't have them to take down to an auto parts store. I was just wondering how they were measured and if anybody knew the size/number they were.

 

[Dan [Sac]]

I would just pull the VRIS actuator off and take it with me to the auto parts store....I have made many a trip to Kragen with odd parts in my hands

As far as the hose goes...hmmmm, I'd have to look at it in the Haynes...one of these days I'm going to fork out the cash and buy the REAL manual (dealer book)...try playing with it - a lot of those suckers can be taken off with needle-nosed pliers, but then a lot of them have simple tricks to them.

 

[Rdiggidy]

I asked on PT about the V6 and 24 Valve DOHC badges on the manifold, but they weren't as helpful as I had hoped.

They said the badges aren't screwed down, but can be peeled off (but you run the risk of bending them). Is there a better way to get them off??

What do you use to reapply them??

 

[Dan [Sac]]

You can take them off with a tough razor blade or with a thin chisel. If you bend them, forget about putting them back.

As far as putting them back, I would think any high-temperature industrial strength glue would work - I would ask at an auto parts store or even talk to a dealer tech.

why not just mask them really well and paint with them on?

 

[Rdiggidy]

I think that's what I'll do....doesn't seem like it's worth the possibility of bending them!!

 

[Dan [Sac]]

Yep, that's the best way - if you get some paint on them, just use some brake cleaner and some Q-tips and the paint will come right off. I tried removing mine to polish the intake and I ended up bending it...once it's bent, the finish cracks and peels off and it looks like crap.

 

[Rdiggidy]

Two more quick questions:

*What are the two little "boxes" hooked to the underside of the manifold??

*I took the "elbow" off of the left side of the manifold (it's actually part of the manifold) and there are rubber rings on it. Should I replace these before reinstalling??

P.s. I just found my new favorite part of my car!! I was looking through the manual and found somthing called the Jiggle Valve Now that's my kinda termonology!!

 

[Rdiggidy]

oh yea....and can I paint those badges?? mine are pretty crappy lookin!!