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Discussion Starter #1
Hi my bro just purchased a EF Falcon with 167000Km on the clock for $2500, and it runs really good and doesn't have many problems except the usual things.

Firstly the headlights have got the yellow tinge too them which I have read how to fix(using sandpaper and polish), but I can't seem to get the headlights off the car. I undid the 3 bolts on the top and near the radiator and undid the bumper bar so it dropped down abit but the light refuses to come off. Is there something holding it on there near the indicator or something?

Secondly the water bottle is filled with the ford factory sludge. Any good ideas on cleaning this crap out? I'm getting the radiator cleaned out by natrad tommorow so i want the whole system to be clean.

Oh yeah, EF's seem like much nicer cars then EA's.. i think i might sell my EA and move up the ladder a bit as well. hehe
 

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Village Idiot
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Wow, good price!!!

I think the indicator light has to be taken out b4 the headlight (??)
Get headlight covers if u dont want it to go yellow.

Natrad should blast all that crap out. Ask em. The last flush i got it wasnt done. Bit pissed off about that.

Maybe worth while investing in a Service Manual form gregories or who ever.


luck
 

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Welcome to the forums btw!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Natrad should blast all that crap out. Ask em. The last flush i got it wasnt done. Bit pissed off about that.
The last time? :p How many times are you meant to do this... hehe.
I still haven't decided between getting a new radiator to make sure it's perfectly clean which will cost me $265 or just get the current radiator cleaned out for $125(they are taking one of the tanks off and doing it properly)

Oh yeah and I'm just taking the radiator in by itself, so I will have to clean the tank myself. One more thing, the brake lights on it don't work, this is cos of the brake switches on this model wearing out isn't it, as the bulbs seem to be fine.

I am a big fan of the EF now as this is the newest car I have driven, it feels like a limo after the EA!
 

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Village Idiot
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Yeah brake lights not working is usually because of the switches. But i cant remeber how to fix :)
Maybe start a new thread about it.

With flushing the rad, i done it just b4 summer as a precation. I think it probably should be done every 6-12months to help prolong the life of the head&gasket.... Im a bit paranoid after experiences with my EA.
The engines and rads have alot of crap in them from the factory, which can block it up.

Wishing i didnt sell my EF
 

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BA'o'Matic 100% working.
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Dont bother getting it cleaned, they USUALLY come back and say, it is still 40%+ blocked, sorry we did our best and you still pay the $$$, or sorry but the core broke thats $50 for trying and $265 for new fitted radiator, just get the new one, or flush it yourself, do NOT get it cleaned :0)

To clean the water bottle, remove it, get some coarse sandand a bit of detergant and warm water, stick the lot in, block off the holes, and shake it like mad, and swirl it around and around, empty the lot, and flush with clean water, should be near perfect then.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah the water was pretty browny/rusty looking, obviously the previous owners never heard of the word COOLANT before. hehe. I've backflushed the engine until the water ran clear and now i think i'll get a new radiator just to be sure, and under the care of a EA owner it should be good then.

Oh another thing, what type of fluid does the EF transmission take as I might flush it out while I'm at it as well. Also this EF has the automatic spark timing thing happening, is this a bad thing as I remember reading someone saying Ford got rid of it in the later models cos it was dodgy or something.

Cheers
 

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BA'o'Matic 100% working.
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It was the mutli coil pack that turned out to be a problem, the changed back to a dizzy in the EL.

Don't know what fluid the tranny takes, but i thought you have to put like 30 litres throught to flush it properly before filling it, I could be wrong though :0)

Jason
 

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Might pay to do a full service to BTW... engine, auto trans and diff.... sounds like the old owner didnt give a sh*t... check all ya belts too, might need replacing... just lil things that ppl forget, other than that uve got urself a bargain! cheers,
shannon
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The car doesn't look like it's been used and abused, just the stuff under the bonnet hasn't been serviced for ages i'd say. Having owned a EA I know what to check for and all it needs is a good coolant system flush, a major home service job :) and some new front struts, the car even has a near new 2.5" catback system :D. What grade oil is needed for the motor BTW?

I might get the head reco'ed as well, but that will probably be later on. It starts easy and seems to run great, even the air con works beautifully :cheer:
 

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The auto transmission uses Castrol TQ-95. You can change the lot by siphoning it out of the dipstick, but that's only for poor people like me. 16 litres will bring back a good red colour.

Here is a page on a DIY fluid change. Adapt it to the Ford.
http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/atfflushmethod.html

Engine oil, depends on the condition of the motor, probably Penrite HPR30 would do. Delo 400 15W-40, if you want to clean her out.


Good price for the car, by the way

cheers:beer:
 

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MATE re your EF an ex owner i can tell you that they are a good car as for the radiator do some ringing around try genuine i was quoted $200 new from a repairer and new oak ford was selling genuine for $110 but make sure you put quality collant back in or the head will be your next repair asfor the brake lights it is the brake light switch i had to change 3 of them its on upper part of the pedal more awkward than anything but not to hard you need to remove the clevis pin to do it and slide pedal sideways a bit but make sure that pin goes all the way when reasembling hope this HELPS GREG venomXR6
 

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back2thefutura said:
I thought Delo 400 was only for Diesel Engines?

It is but it cleans them real good..
Then change to a 25/ 60 oil or around those numbers...
 

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Think the manual recomends 15w-40.
GTX3 is one of the cheaper

could try some others, but i dunno how the grading system works so i cant recomend one
 

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i send radiators out to be cleaned at work every day and dont have too many problems with them. i have never had one come back and they've told me it's still partially blocked - thats crazy. when they come back they are as good as new - unless otherwise advised and then thats something u cant get away from anyway. you will never be able to get it as clean by flushing it as what it is when it has been dismantled and rodded out.

if u have the coolant overflow tank which looks like a heap of spheres squashed together then u will never get it clean. if u take the cap off and look inside u'll see that it's made of several compartments with only small passages between them. they arent expensive so if u want it clean u'll have to replace it.

hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay I need some more help.

I want to change the serpentine belt on it, but being a EA guy I have absolutely no clue how to do it. There are two pulleys that look like the adjustable pulleys in the middle, but I have absolutely no idea how you adjust them. HELP!!!

Also I still need help with knowing if the EF headlight and indicator only have 3 bolts holding them on, I don't wanna brake them trying to get them off.

We put in a new radiator so hopefully the cooling system will run sweet as, I haven't run it to operating temperature yet though so who knows what'll happen. I'm guessing the inside of the engine is quite rusty, but from what I have seen from opening up the EA engine in the past there isn't really much for the rust to catch onto and the block will always have rust on it andyways so I just reverse flushed it with the hose to save some money.

Does the EF suffer from the jumpy temp guage problem cos I also got a new thermostat and need to know if i should put a small hole in it. The thermofans should have fixed this problem right?

PS. Why the hell doesn't anyone sell the air bleed and resevoir to radiator hoses other then ford? It sucks you have to get $35 ford genuine hoses :(

Cheers.
 

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Headlight removal.

1. Remove retaining scrivets and remove upper radiator and headlamp cover moulding.
2.Loosen bumper retaining hardware and pull bumper away from vehicle.
3.Remove turn signal assembly.(see below)
4. Remove two bolts from lower outboard attaching bracket
5. Remove two bolts from lower inboard attaching bracket.
6.Remove two upper mounting screws
7.Withdraw headlamp assembly by pulling forward and lifting upwards
over bumper.
8. Disconnect wiring connector from read of headlamp assy.

Remove Turn Signal Assy.

1. Remove retaining screw at nose of fender.
2. Insert flat blade between headlamp and indicator assy. Position blade on locking
tab.
3. Gently lever indicator assembly forward till it pops out.
4. Disconnect wiring connector at rear of indicator assembly.


Easy. :wnc:
 

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Formerly ef_ghiaI6
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The brake switch new , and fitted from ford is around $40 from memory, yeah, ive had to replace two so far.. You can get it cheaper if you fit it urself, not hard, just follow what venomxr6 said.
btw, what was this sanding/polishing for the dreaded yellow headlight syndrom? I was told it was the inner lining of the headlight that was rooted... can anyone give more details?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
btw, what was this sanding/polishing for the dreaded yellow headlight syndrom? I was told it was the inner lining of the headlight that was rooted... can anyone give more details?
Someone posted the very helpful article here. I found though that it's best to use 800 grit sandpaper, 1200 grit sandpaper and then 2000 grit sandpaper before using the Scratch X. If you just use 1200 grit then the Scratch X it will still have lots of scratches.

Oh yeah and I did this to the EF today and it really does work. They look like new now, definately worth the time and effort.

http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=44040&highlight=EF+yellow+headlights
 
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