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Super Moderator
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3,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of trading the NB on a late 90's Fairlane or LTD. Performance is a secondary consideration but in terms of reliability, ease of service, parts availability and proneness to oil leaks what are members' views on the relative merits of the V8 versus the six? Again not a prime determinant but what difference in fuel consumption might I expect? :p
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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6,360 Posts
Blue: You are going to another Fairlane,so in my opinion the eight for low down torque for that heavier body.Driven right I guess fuel economy would be close to six if not better.But close call,depends on what car and price/condition you see at the yard.
 

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Pursuit Reincarnation Dog
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7,777 Posts
Ummm, I don't understand the question :nuts: :eek: :eek:
Is there any choice other than an eight?

Trust me, hand around here and performance WILL count!
 

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CEO - The BSR Group
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4,400 Posts
Going V8 is the going thing! :D

Vote 1 : V8! :thumbup:
 

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Chromed Member
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1,810 Posts
agreed!

my ebs a v8 and NEVER HAD AN OIL LEAK, or problem with engine / transmisison. I have seen lots of 6es that need oil leaks fixed ( sump, timing cover, rocker cover, etc) but nothing major on any v8 ford.

Ford 6es are also common to do head gaskets, modules and coils.


At least if you get a fairlane youll get cruise cont as standard, which will help with fuel economy, v8 or 6



;) ;) ;)
 

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T5 Expert Operator
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6,540 Posts
Yeah i agree too, V8 is the go, especially for a Fairlane. I always view it this way, if the six's can last long, the V8's are good for much longer. I've seen an AU XR8 with 600,000km and the engine sounded as if it didn't have any wear what so ever.
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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6,360 Posts
botch: You are right about head gasgets.Who hell designed the coil to go on the block under inlet? Must have been a penpusher!!
 

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Pursuit Reincarnation Dog
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Aussiblue said:
Thanks guys you have confirmed my thoughts.
It was really a simple question IMO :nuts:
 

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Chromed Member
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1,810 Posts
ebxr8240 said:
botch: You are right about head gasgets.Who hell designed the coil to go on the block under inlet? Must have been a penpusher!!
I think the one guy was responsibel for the following:

- no dipsticks in late model autos
- putting the dissy, module & coil UNDER the intake manifold
- using dodgy headbolts
- using rubber grommets in diffs
- completely designing elec window regs in EA -> EL
- designing the original rocker cover seals on XD's onwards



:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:
 

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Super Moderator
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3,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Didn't he also:

Leave all that space to adjust the idler wheel tension in the engine bay of the EA onwards sixes.
Design those leaky timing covers.
Make it essential to remove either the motor or the K frame to get the sump off.
Make those plastic timing chain dampers that break so easily.
Fit engine mounts that break regularly.
Decide the engine should need a dual acting thermostat then delete such thermostats from Ford's parts inventory.

Shall we call him Edsel?
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
He excelled himself when he designed the rear bolt location on the left engine mount on the EA, while the left mount location is itself a work of art. I am particularly impressed with his ability to locate engine mount bolts where there isn't enough space to turn a ratchet - a lot of thought went into that. Then there are the nice little touches like the stupid little plastic stud/screw things that hold the rear boot trim over the tail lights. And we mustn't forget the magnificent rear disc/park brake setup carried over from earlier models, with that wonderful seizing helical screw/piston design.
 

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Super Moderator
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3,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
"Scrivets" the technical name for those plastic screw things.

Just removed the LH enginee mount. Not the hardest part of removing the engine but not a lot of fun either. I hear a rumour that he was an ex Leyland engineer who also designed the bypass hose on the mini engine and the fan cowling/radiator screws for the mini as well.
 

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Super Moderator
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3,714 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Back on topic I'm looking at 1999 (AU Style) V8 Fairlanes at the moment Anything I should watch for particular to this model?
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
Scrivets suck.

The common name for the left engine mount is @#%^. Getting it out was easy enough, but getting that rear bolt in took a ridiculous amount of the total time. Then again, I got to put it in twice because I had to take the @#%^ out again after I worked out that I couldn't get all the bolts in because the mount had to be bent, which probably had something to do with the rear bolt being 3/4 way out before I took it off.
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #17
You're telling me I'm going to have double the fun putting the new mounts in and putting the engine back; oh goody!!!!
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
It's not that bad when you know how, which of course I didn't until after I'd worked it all out the hard way, and wasted a lot of time doing it.

Use new bolts as old ones can break, and maybe loctite in (breakable loctite, not the permanent stuff) as apparently they have a reputation for working free.

Get uni joint socket for wrench, best is one with spring on outside to keep straight for offering up left front bolts through filter gap. Also extension bar to reach left front bolts, although if you got it out you've probably already got this.

Fit right mount to motor first. Do not fit to body yet. This is done fist to inspire you with confidence that, despite all evidence to the contrary on the left, a mount can be fitted easily and quickly to that motor.

Fit left mount to motor, doing rear bolt first (because then you can see the fronts to align, but you can't the other way around). If you can't get at it with fingers, put something over bolt like paper towel or in socket like blutack to hold it in socket, then you can at least get a grip on socket. Short extension bar or deepwell socket might help. Work from behind mount for this. I couldn't do it as well by feel as by shining a torch up and locating bolt into motor by sight, not that you can see much.

If you can't align front holes bracket may be bent, so straighten it or get a new one and start again. If bracket holes are forward of motor holes, the bracket can be levered back with big screwdriver against oil filter boss while using centre punch through top hole to locate bracket,then insert bottom bolt and tighten, then top bolt. Bolt in bottom first (sounds a bit rude) is easier because centre punch in bottom will obstruct bolt in top if you try that first.

Fit left mount to body bolt, then right mount to body bolt. Right is done last because then you've got a lot more room to move when locating it than on left.

I gave up trying to torque the rear left bolt because I couldn't get at it properly, but maybe that's just to do with the sort of torque wrench I've got.

Bugger! After writing all that it's just dawned on me from your post about engine weights that you look like you're going to swap to a 5lt. I've got no idea whether the mounts on that are the same. Oh well, parts of it will be of some use.
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #19
That's handy info EA-S. I'm looking at fixing the 6 and trading the whole car on a later model V8. It's never been the same since I cooked it about 18 months ago after Ford twice supplied me with single acting rather than a dual acting thermostat. I got a whole $500 out of them at the small claims tribunal but I suspect it's cost me about $7,000 in things that have failed since. I don't think I can trust this engine anymore and it has to be reliable to get the kids to school etc. I was interested in the weight as my engine stand is rated at 563 kgm and I was wanting to ensure it was up to the job.

Thanks again.
 

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Australian Falcon Member
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663 Posts
EA-S,

When I swapped the motor on my XD, the left mount was broken (surprise, surprise!).. is this a common problem? If so I guess i'll have to buy shares in a left mount factory!

When I was putting the motor back in, the right mount, however, wouldn't line up properly. Had to loosen the mount on the motor, bolt it down to the frame, then torque her back up again. 5 mins later, its sitting pretty in the bay. But yeah, basically what you said in the post summed up an hour of messing about, lol!
 
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