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Discussion Starter #1
I was (am?) having heat problems with my XD (351C) so I decided to see what could be done. With the water bubbling away, the clutch fan could still be spun freely - ok, new one of them. The radiator seems to have a leak at the top - ok, new one of them. And seeing as I'm doing that, why not go for a new pump? People rave about getting pumps with proper impellers.

Long story short... >> this is my old pump << .

WTF? :eek:hman:

The pump is only 18 months old. No, I didn't use sea water as radiator fluid. Initially I had coolant, then at some point I flushed the system and went with straight water (I guess getting lazy/cheap cost me, huh?).

OK, so the question is - what else is affected, and can I clean it up?

The bottom radiator hose has a metal wire in it so that it keeps it's shape. That was also caked in rust. The thermostat housing is badly pitted (like the >> intake on the old pump <<, but MUCH worse).

I have air-con, so how will that survive this? And then there's the gas converter. And how about the block? I doubt rust is as good a heat conductor as solid iron, so it'll just be sitting there insulating the block.

I don't suppose there's some fluid I can get to run through the system that liquifies/dissolves all this rust, which I then flush out again?

-Steven
 

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there is a product on the market that removes rust from panels , you can also use it for fuel tanks , its called POR15 metal ready , i used it on a fuel tank that was rusted inside it removed all the rust fairly quickly and it will also help prevent rust from forming again ,

i dont know how it will go in an engine but i cant see there being any problems , maybee try some in an old crappy engine and see how it goes
 

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Whats the tap water like where you live? I'm guessing it was a GMB aluminium water pump? When my family moved to Adelaide, we had an old peugeot, had an alloy head. We'd moved from near Horsham, where we were using rain water as a coolant, to using Adelaide tap water as a coolant. Head corroded clean through in a few months...
Use coolant, or at least chuck a corrosion inhibitor in there!
 

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I use nothing but distilled water in my performance engines, especially if they are a mix of iron and aluminum. If you use straight water, electrolysis will eat the aluminum parts up quick. Always run at least some colleant as it helps prevent the electrolysis. Distilled water should be fairly free of metals and that will slow it down too. Make sure the engine is grounded good to the frame.
 

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i built a cleveland and spent a few hours with welsh plugs out ,with a bit of wire and scriber and compressed air cleaning the rusta and crap out ( i couldnt get everywhere though ), it was one of the best /cleanest blocks ive seen before i started so it was pretty good when i finished , i bought a new rad and one of those filters that go in the top hose , i started new engine and checked filter after id run engine in , it was chocka block of rusty bits ( the hose was sucked in when it was running due to the vacuum of the filter being blocked ), this continued till about the tenth time id checked filter and now it hardly gets none , id advise everyone to get one especially if using a new radiator ( mine was $720 )
all of those tubes would be blocked with the rusty bits for sure , $50 well spent
 

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Truffles said:
I was (am?) having heat problems with my XD (351C) so I decided to see what could be done. With the water bubbling away, the clutch fan could still be spun freely - ok, new one of them. The radiator seems to have a leak at the top - ok, new one of them. And seeing as I'm doing that, why not go for a new pump? People rave about getting pumps with proper impellers.

Long story short... >> this is my old pump << .

WTF? :eek:hman:

The pump is only 18 months old. No, I didn't use sea water as radiator fluid. Initially I had coolant, then at some point I flushed the system and went with straight water (I guess getting lazy/cheap cost me, huh?).

OK, so the question is - what else is affected, and can I clean it up?

The bottom radiator hose has a metal wire in it so that it keeps it's shape. That was also caked in rust. The thermostat housing is badly pitted (like the >> intake on the old pump <<, but MUCH worse).

I have air-con, so how will that survive this? And then there's the gas converter. And how about the block? I doubt rust is as good a heat conductor as solid iron, so it'll just be sitting there insulating the block.

I don't suppose there's some fluid I can get to run through the system that liquifies/dissolves all this rust, which I then flush out again?

-Steven
You sure the block wasnt full of TRUFFLES. :priest: . With a name like u username. :hy:
 

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pinkbits said:
i built a cleveland and spent a few hours with welsh plugs out ,with a bit of wire and scriber and compressed air cleaning the rusta and crap out ( i couldnt get everywhere though ), it was one of the best /cleanest blocks ive seen before i started so it was pretty good when i finished , i bought a new rad and one of those filters that go in the top hose , i started new engine and checked filter after id run engine in , it was chocka block of rusty bits ( the hose was sucked in when it was running due to the vacuum of the filter being blocked ), this continued till about the tenth time id checked filter and now it hardly gets none , id advise everyone to get one especially if using a new radiator ( mine was $720 )
all of those tubes would be blocked with the rusty bits for sure , $50 well spent
Great advice :hy:
The best $50 you will ever spend on a new motor!
 

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Work Horse said:
Great advice :hy:
The best $50 you will ever spend on a new motor!
I use the $10.00 sock in the top rad hose, and it works very effective too. Just clean and refit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tips guys... anti-rust fluid it is.

crochunter said:
You sure the block wasnt full of TRUFFLES. :priest: . With a name like u username. :hy:
Man, at first site, there's so much crud in there, I'm sure fungus wouldn't be far off.

xdclevo said:
I use the $10.00 sock in the top rad hose, and it works very effective too. Just clean and refit.
A sock filter, you say? Cotton? Explorer? Sports sock? I think I'll try a cotton one :).

So what do you think will happen to the other components that I can't clean (aircon and gas converter)? Should the anti-rust stuff help ease the rust off them as time goes by (assuming I keep cleaning the filter for a while)?

I guess we'll see how things go. Thanks again,
-Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that sucks... after putting everything back together, I've got a leak at the bottom of the water pump. I don't have my tools handy now, but tomorrow I'll see if tightening the bolts helps (guess I should find out how tight then need to go), otherwise I get to pull it all apart again.

-Steven
 

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Truffles said:
I was (am?) having heat problems with my XD (351C) so I decided to see what could be done. With the water bubbling away, the clutch fan could still be spun freely - ok, new one of them. The radiator seems to have a leak at the top - ok, new one of them. And seeing as I'm doing that, why not go for a new pump? People rave about getting pumps with proper impellers.

Long story short... >> this is my old pump << .

WTF? :eek:hman:

The pump is only 18 months old. No, I didn't use sea water as radiator fluid. Initially I had coolant, then at some point I flushed the system and went with straight water (I guess getting lazy/cheap cost me, huh?).

OK, so the question is - what else is affected, and can I clean it up?

The bottom radiator hose has a metal wire in it so that it keeps it's shape. That was also caked in rust. The thermostat housing is badly pitted (like the >> intake on the old pump <<, but MUCH worse).

I have air-con, so how will that survive this? And then there's the gas converter. And how about the block? I doubt rust is as good a heat conductor as solid iron, so it'll just be sitting there insulating the block.

I don't suppose there's some fluid I can get to run through the system that liquifies/dissolves all this rust, which I then flush out again?

-Steven
It looks like you might have an electrolisis problem , make sure the motor is well earthed to the battery and body , I normally add a 12 MM solid copper cable from the drivers side head to the battery and one from the left to the body , I NEVER use water but a decent anti corrosive cooling fluid and if you check with toyota they sell a seal lubricant block for the pump and seals , but for now clean the donk welch plugs out and a brish if possible then reasemble and change the fliud in a week or two , good luck
 

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Truffles said:
A sock filter, you say? Cotton? Explorer? Sports sock? I think I'll try a cotton one :).
Just go to any radiator shop and they will have in stock. They are a material of some kind and go over the top pipe on the radiator, then the hose pushes on over it. Dont use your footy socks. haha
 
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