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Officially Bored with 347
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Discussion Starter #1
Being new here im not sure if this has been done b4 but anyways.. this subject is for those that know "other"ways of doing mechanical work on vehicles without the" ford specific special tools" to help others needing ideas... me included do you have any tips/hints/tricks??...

Fuel rail quick connect fittings - rather than buying the ford "special" tools cut a strip of plastic coke bottle about 5cms by 4cms wrap it around the fitting & push it in to release the garter spring once inserted pull rails apart & bobs ya uncle few$$ saved

6cyl tensioner removal- ( torx screw kit needed about $10 from autopro also get about 20 bits in kit good for other jobs)
unscrew innerplug pull out mesh filter & insert 2.5/3mm bit on screwdriver end insert into hole & gently push inwards whilst turning clockwise, releasing spring tension then ya can remove the retainer

Clutch pilot/spigot bearing- for those at home without a puller pack the inside hole with grease, grab ya 1/2dr extension & wrap the end of it up with electrical tape until its a firm fit inside bearing, drive it in with a hammer, the hydraulic lock pushes the bearing out you might have to add abit of grease as ya go!! ALSO wear ya sunnies as ive already been squirted in the face:rolleyes: :eek:
 

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Officially Bored with 347
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3,584 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
TPS voltage- probe green/black wires on tps switch KOEO(key on engine off) should read 0.7v therebouts since i had a bigger t/body i had to slot the mounting holes to get this

Base Timing- on my ED, under the fuse panel theres a diagnostic terminal/connector, with the key off connect the top & bottom pins on the leftside of this port with a jumper wire, start eng & if done correctly car will automatically idle to about 1600rpm. with timing light connected adjust timing to 30deg BTDC or whatever you prefer mines set at 34deg, turn off key & disconnect jumperwire

1 cause of surging on manuals EECIV this is why mine surged abit & took a bloody long time b4 someone(other than ford) found the prob....
Maybe caused by a lack of neutral drive switch signal to the ecu.The switch is on the T5 box&looks like a reversing light switch. It provides a signal to the ECU to provide different idle calibrations if the car is in gear or not, there is NO fault code for this!!!! The switch has a 5v supply from ECU pin 30 & the return is to pin 46.
When in neutral,pin 30 should read 0v , in gear 5v ELECTRICKERY AINT YA JUST LOVE IT
Hope it helps someone
cheers Brett;)
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
svo 302

Thanks. I've taken a print. Never know when you'll need it.

I'd actually already posted "Is timing chain tensioner tool really necessary" earlier because I didn't want to fork out $190 for something I'd only use a couple of times (Well, I hope I don't need to anyway) and got similar advice about 3mm Allen key.

I haven't seen inside a 3.9 timing case yet, but is there a risk of dropping a detachable bit into the case if you use your setup?

I reckon it would be a good idea to have a separate "How to" area if enough people contribute hints in future. It'd build up a good library and save people repeating advice. If you look at my reply today on paint problems ?EF it might be helpful to people in future, but I'm not going to write that out too often. We'd need a better search function than the current one.

What do other members think?
 

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Officially Bored with 347
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3,584 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
hi mate ive done it this way before without any probs because the screwdriver end is magnetised & even to pull it out by hand is abit of fun with oily fingers lol, the tensioner sits inside a bore so if it ever was to fall out which is very unlikely in will not fall inside the cover or into the sump, when the tensioner is removed check out the slotted end that sits up against the actual timing chain guide/slipper it has a tiny oil hole right in the middle, my friends blocked up & made it groove the tensioner face into a convex shape,similar to a lifter ewwwwww.
Another hassle i had was i took 3 hrs trying to get all 3 timing marks right Grrrrrrrr i accidently turned the oil pump gear/sprocket no matter what i did i just couldnt get it right by the dizzy. afew mins later i noticed i had the timing spot on after all... The bloody rotor button had worn badly allowing it to move 1/2cm either way with the shaft being held steady DANG IT any hassles email me ok
 

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300+rwkw DC LTD Member
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1,622 Posts
Thanx SVO302,

I'm alway after hints and tips. Especialy with the EEC4. I cant my thing to Idle right. P & N is OK but, D & R it most of the time stalls. I think my torque converter has locked up as the engine is bogging down from idle to 2500. It is an after market 2300 stall.
 

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Officially Bored with 347
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3,584 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No probs man.......
I had an idle prob awhile ago adjusted isc motor no go was even worse when cold..
took isc off my old 60mm t/body slapped it on the 65 & wella no cold start probs & no hunting idle probs
for those wanting to know how to adjust idle speed.......
remove wiring to isc motor start eng & check idle rpm if in specs turn off & reconnect.. if low/high etc wind in idle screw until desired rpm is obtailed turn off & reconnect.... during this time do NOT touch the accelerator at all.... If you did adjust screw, throttle pos sensor will have to be readjusted see above
Happy motoring
brett
 

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Officially Bored with 347
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3,584 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Heat Spacers

Yeah Yeah im full of it today but anyways
If you would like to have a heat spacer between upper/lower manifold but find they are abit pricey try this
I made one out of a fibre/organic insulation board that electricians use in circuit/electrical powerboards.. Its too easy to cut/drill & file to the required shape is 3/8 inch thick so manifold wont hit bonnet & is quiet strong... All it really cost me was $6 & time for marking/cutting etc, drops temp down heaps just as good as a bought one...will be posting a pic soon
Yay
Brett
 

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Officially Bored with 347
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3,584 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
auto's & tps

Geez im all out of order here..
Im not 100% certain which models have this EECV autos do ....
Anyways computer controlled autos have 2 tps switches 1 for throttle & 1 for auto.... BOTH MUST read the same ie 0.7v have you checked yours Mr LTDHO????
got a manual here & will sus things out if asked
Cool
Brett
 

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Registered
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3,544 Posts
Removing oil filters

Anyone got any tips on removing oil filters from 6cyl EB without all the oil running onto the k-member? :confused: Also I found if the filter is too tight to undo by hand you can only undo by using socket with strap attached, $11 at Super Cheap Auto.
 

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Rail Rider
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1,248 Posts
Re: Removing oil filters

Falchoon said:
Anyone got any tips on removing oil filters from 6cyl EB without all the oil running onto the k-member? :confused: Also I found if the filter is too tight to undo by hand you can only undo by using socket with strap attached, $11 at Super Cheap Auto.

On mine I just remove the sump guard and get to it from underneth, and keep the filter upright as you pull it out.

Another way to remove tight filters is to hammer a large screw driver through it...lol
 

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89 DA LTD 3.9MPI
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364 Posts
Oil Filter

I have used the screwdriver trick on occasions where I haven't had the necessary tools. Works like a charm.
 

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Australian BA XR6 Falcon
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1,249 Posts
Re: Removing oil filters

Falchoon said:
Anyone got any tips on removing oil filters from 6cyl EB without all the oil running onto the k-member? :confused: Also I found if the filter is too tight to undo by hand you can only undo by using socket with strap attached, $11 at Super Cheap Auto.
Here's a trick I just heard, spray the area on the K frame with engine degreaser, the oil won't stick to the degreaser, just hose after after the job is done.


Kieron
 

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300+rwkw DC LTD Member
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1,622 Posts
switches

thanx again svo302

If I get a chance I'll chech the voltage ASAP. It realy only does it when going from D to R and vice versa.
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
Re: Removing oil filters

Falchoon said:
Anyone got any tips on removing oil filters from 6cyl EB without all the oil running onto the k-member? :confused: Also I found if the filter is too tight to undo by hand you can only undo by using socket with strap attached, $11 at Super Cheap Auto.
There's another tool with three arms coming from a central point that takes a socket wrench and the fingers on the arms tighten on the sides of the filter as you turn the wrench. This applies pressure equally to the sides from centre, which seems better way to turn it. Mine was $16 a few weeks back. Bit hard to get initial grip but works well once you get the hang of it and press fingers onto filter while taking up tension.

After buying the tool and while doing engine mounts on my EA I discovered I can also get standard expanding band oil filter wrench around filter anyway by working from bottom and slipping loop up from engine side and fitting around filter.
 

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300+rwkw DC LTD Member
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1,622 Posts
tested

svo302

Checked voltage TB is closed had 7volts, when TB open about 4.5volts. Which I under stand is good. Check base idle without the I.S.C valve plugged in, altered idle to 700rpm, now idles at 1200 and still stalls when going from R to D. BTW that's what Ford said to do....
 

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Australian Ford Member
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1,120 Posts
LTDHO said:
Thanx SVO302,

I'm alway after hints and tips. Especialy with the EEC4. I cant my thing to Idle right. P & N is OK but, D & R it most of the time stalls. I think my torque converter has locked up as the engine is bogging down from idle to 2500. It is an after market 2300 stall.
Have you looked at neutral drive switch on transmission? EEC IV takes signal from this to maintain idle under different loads at idle in N & P and drive gears.
 

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Super Moderator
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3,725 Posts
Removing the Fan

Using one of those drum brake adjusting tools that looks like a bent double ended screwdiver works great to hold the fan while you unbolt it. Just slide one end into the gap between the lowest two bolts and the shaft.
 
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