i've had the ef fairmont for 3 months and it is time to upgrade the stereo.it has the standard 6 disc in the boot. my question is can i run an amp off the standard head unit or will i have to change to a unit with rca preout. also the disc stacker reminds me of a pioneer one i had. were these made by pioneer for ford? any help would be great cause i don't want to throw stuff away that still works well.
stereo upgrade
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Not sure about running amps, probably can't. The stereo system is probably Phillips, I think the Pioneer deal finished around the XE.
I would pull the old stereo out and replace with new Pioneer/other reputable brand. Wait until new if you can and you will most likely pick one up on special for around $500-600 . Or if you happen to be going to Summernats they usually have great deals happening there. In Pioneer there are different head units to run multiple amps (I recently found this out the hard way) so best to talk to a car stereo shop and find out the exact thing you need and then go shopping around for prices. I don't know all the techno mumbo jumbo about why or how with the multiple amp thing I just know that my new stereo had a few "problems" but have it sorted now.
If you upgrade keep your old stereo so you can refit when you sell the car.
I would pull the old stereo out and replace with new Pioneer/other reputable brand. Wait until new if you can and you will most likely pick one up on special for around $500-600 . Or if you happen to be going to Summernats they usually have great deals happening there. In Pioneer there are different head units to run multiple amps (I recently found this out the hard way) so best to talk to a car stereo shop and find out the exact thing you need and then go shopping around for prices. I don't know all the techno mumbo jumbo about why or how with the multiple amp thing I just know that my new stereo had a few "problems" but have it sorted now.
If you upgrade keep your old stereo so you can refit when you sell the car.
Bad and possibly expensive advice, You can easily add an external amp(s) wihtout any problems. Lack of RCA inputs is solved by using a $20 converter or you can purchase an amp like the sony Xplod series which have both sets of connectors.Falchoon said:
If you want to run a competetion system by all means replace the standard system with a more expensive head unit + external amps but I would reccomend the following.
Get a 4 channel amp with something like 40-80W RMS per channel.
Get a decent 8-10" subwoofer and replace your rears and fronts to your taste and/or budget.
Run your fronts of the existing headset, the rears off 2 channels of the exteranl amp and bride the last and run the sub off of that.
Using quality components you can get a big improvement in you sound quality and SPL + you keep the use of your stereo control on the wheel which is nice and convenient.
All this depends on your budget but unless you have more money than sense it makes sense to spend a reasoanble amount on car sound and spend the big $$$ on your home hi-fi where you don't have engine,tyre, electrical noise and getting real quality sound is extremely difficult and expensive.
2 put in my 2 cents worth.
Most amps these days have high level inputs, which mean that you can run the audio inputs straight from the speaker lines of your existing deck !!!!!
My suggestion would be, spend the money on a decent amp, and sub.
<LI>With the EF models, there is a cut out, where you can fit an 8" sub. The only problem with this, is 8" usually aren't very bassy.
A 10" is a lot better, but it needs a larger hole to be cut, for it to fit. (Also, with a 10" you will have vibrations in the metal, so you will need to put a layer of MDF wood, to brace the metal.
<LI>Then, I would replace the two 6" speakers on the rear parcel tray, with something decent. Personally, I dont like 6x9's. They are meant for akward tights spots, a good pair of 6.5"'s and 2 tweeters sound much cleaner.
<LI>Then I would add 2 tweeters to the speaker spaces in the top of the crash pad / dash.
<LI>Finally I would replace the door speakers (The doors rattle a little too much, so they really dont make too much of a difference with good speakers)
The decks on the EF Fairmont are pretty damm good, and you would need to spend a fair bit of money to get a better deck and stacker.
But having said that, You can always spend big on a good deck, keep it, and install in every car you get. Thats what I have done with the past cars that I have had.
Anyway, speakers will make more of an improvement, than any deck will, to car sound !!!!
Most amps these days have high level inputs, which mean that you can run the audio inputs straight from the speaker lines of your existing deck !!!!!
My suggestion would be, spend the money on a decent amp, and sub.
<LI>With the EF models, there is a cut out, where you can fit an 8" sub. The only problem with this, is 8" usually aren't very bassy.
A 10" is a lot better, but it needs a larger hole to be cut, for it to fit. (Also, with a 10" you will have vibrations in the metal, so you will need to put a layer of MDF wood, to brace the metal.
<LI>Then, I would replace the two 6" speakers on the rear parcel tray, with something decent. Personally, I dont like 6x9's. They are meant for akward tights spots, a good pair of 6.5"'s and 2 tweeters sound much cleaner.
<LI>Then I would add 2 tweeters to the speaker spaces in the top of the crash pad / dash.
<LI>Finally I would replace the door speakers (The doors rattle a little too much, so they really dont make too much of a difference with good speakers)
The decks on the EF Fairmont are pretty damm good, and you would need to spend a fair bit of money to get a better deck and stacker.
But having said that, You can always spend big on a good deck, keep it, and install in every car you get. Thats what I have done with the past cars that I have had.
Anyway, speakers will make more of an improvement, than any deck will, to car sound !!!!
OK Dude Don't listen to shit advice.
Step one if you are happy with basis sound you can use your existing Head Unit using high pass connections to an amp. Without bagging your system that is the poor mans alternative..
Step two if you are smart enough "DO NOT" bridge a Head Unit to provide power to a sub.... This is crap!!!!
I would suggest..
Go to a Head Unit providing front, rear and Sub out RCA's. Cost a little more but gives you all the control you can think of.
If you want more than 20 Watts RMS per channel go for at first a 4 Channel amp to power your front and rear speakers and then a 2 Channel amp for a Sub Woofer, this you "can" bridge if it is decent.!!
If you are serious with your sound.!! Do not stuff around with 8" Sub Woofers. Go straight for 10" or 12" boxed subs... 8" is crap...
From a Car Stereo connoisseur shit sound shit!!!
Upgrade and enhance your listening pleasure.
Speak to a well known Car Stereo installation shop. Or PM me and I will give you some sound advice. Not being a smart arse just passing on 20 years of Car stereo experience..
Nipper...
Step one if you are happy with basis sound you can use your existing Head Unit using high pass connections to an amp. Without bagging your system that is the poor mans alternative..
Step two if you are smart enough "DO NOT" bridge a Head Unit to provide power to a sub.... This is crap!!!!
I would suggest..
Go to a Head Unit providing front, rear and Sub out RCA's. Cost a little more but gives you all the control you can think of.
If you want more than 20 Watts RMS per channel go for at first a 4 Channel amp to power your front and rear speakers and then a 2 Channel amp for a Sub Woofer, this you "can" bridge if it is decent.!!
If you are serious with your sound.!! Do not stuff around with 8" Sub Woofers. Go straight for 10" or 12" boxed subs... 8" is crap...
From a Car Stereo connoisseur shit sound shit!!!
Upgrade and enhance your listening pleasure.
Speak to a well known Car Stereo installation shop. Or PM me and I will give you some sound advice. Not being a smart arse just passing on 20 years of Car stereo experience..
Nipper...
Geez,
I didn' t think it was that bad...and where in anyone's post had they suggested bridging 2 headset channels to power a sub?
I have noticed an interesting thread with some people on this board and its the whole spend the earth on everything to do with the car.
Its just a car guys...
I didn' t think it was that bad...and where in anyone's post had they suggested bridging 2 headset channels to power a sub?
I have noticed an interesting thread with some people on this board and its the whole spend the earth on everything to do with the car.
Its just a car guys...
The only advice I'll give is don't spend money on the rear spkrs if you are on a budget. The BIGGEST improvement in sound quality you can get would be a set of GOOD 6 or 6.5" splits. You can keep you factory head unit for now and hook it upto a 4chan amp with high level inputs (or get a hi-low converter). After you have that much setup, see how you like it. Then you'll be in a much better position to judge your next move. oh, and stay the heck away from free-air subs (imho), esp since you have plenty of boot space available.
btw Nippers advice was pretty good (imho). If you want opinions for your stereo, you could try posting a question on: www.caraudioaustralia.com . A damn good site.
btw Nippers advice was pretty good (imho). If you want opinions for your stereo, you could try posting a question on: www.caraudioaustralia.com . A damn good site.
Steady on Chief, I don't believe I said anyone had posted that advice. I simply said don't listen to anyone who tells you to take this option. There appears to be a bit of a recent trend in car audio for dodgey Audio sellers to convince the unwary to bridged H/Unit Channels to run subs..TheBow said:
My apologies if anyone thought I was having a go at the info in their posts. I was not..
Nipper...:BW:
MateTheBow said:
From reading Nippers reply I can assure you I dont think he was referring to you!
Like nipper, over the Last 15 years I have made a huge inroad into the car audio industry as a consumer, winning many judged events etc etc etc..
These days I tend to go for quality rather than 141dec winning performance! (ears Hurt Too much)
Plus the MG's keep me quite busy re cash!
If you get the righ job, advice 1st time, less cash later on!
Awww, it's okay, must have been that time of the month.
Last day of work before Hols - got a bit touchy
I feel sorry for anyone trying to buy anything for car audio as its all dominated by "sik moits" who generally don't know the diff between RMS and PMPO.
When is there going to be legistlation to have truth in labelling for car audio products.
Last day of work before Hols - got a bit touchy
I feel sorry for anyone trying to buy anything for car audio as its all dominated by "sik moits" who generally don't know the diff between RMS and PMPO.
When is there going to be legistlation to have truth in labelling for car audio products.
Okay then, now that's under control.
Hpw about people say what AV equipment they have in their car and how it rates in the real world.
I currently just have the standard premium audio in the XR8 so that doesn't really count.
It sounds pretty good for a facvtory job but I definately think it needs an external amp though.
Hpw about people say what AV equipment they have in their car and how it rates in the real world.
I currently just have the standard premium audio in the XR8 so that doesn't really count.
It sounds pretty good for a facvtory job but I definately think it needs an external amp though.
OK here we go:
Pioneer AVX - 7300 LCD 7" In Dash Colour Screen.
Pioneer SDV - P7 Single DVD/VCD/Audio CD in Dash Player
Pioneer AVM - P8000 Processor incorporating 4 x 45 watts. FM/AM Super Tuner Radio, GUI (Graphical User Interface) this produces all the Audio control pictures to the Screen.
Pioneer CDX - P650 6 Disc CD Stacker in the Boot.
Boston Accoustic 5 x 7" Splits in the front.
Boston Accoustic 5 x 7" 2 Way Coaxials in the rear.
Boston Accoustic 12" Generator Sub in Factory Sealed Box.
Powered by a MTX Thunder 500D Mono Amp.
The system is built for me to enjoy my music and centres around Sound Quality not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) as is the case with the Duff Duff boys. The sound is crystal clear and is loud without being over the top. IMO if you set up your system correctly with speakers that match your System Unit's you can get away without running additional amp's for driving speakers. That is as long as your head unit produces at least 18 wrms or there abouts. Always check what the minimum power rating required to run a speaker is, not just the maximum.
I am very happy with my system, and would like to thank Rob (XLR8) for his help with the install. Thanks Mate!!!!
Nipper...
Pioneer AVX - 7300 LCD 7" In Dash Colour Screen.
Pioneer SDV - P7 Single DVD/VCD/Audio CD in Dash Player
Pioneer AVM - P8000 Processor incorporating 4 x 45 watts. FM/AM Super Tuner Radio, GUI (Graphical User Interface) this produces all the Audio control pictures to the Screen.
Pioneer CDX - P650 6 Disc CD Stacker in the Boot.
Boston Accoustic 5 x 7" Splits in the front.
Boston Accoustic 5 x 7" 2 Way Coaxials in the rear.
Boston Accoustic 12" Generator Sub in Factory Sealed Box.
Powered by a MTX Thunder 500D Mono Amp.
The system is built for me to enjoy my music and centres around Sound Quality not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) as is the case with the Duff Duff boys. The sound is crystal clear and is loud without being over the top. IMO if you set up your system correctly with speakers that match your System Unit's you can get away without running additional amp's for driving speakers. That is as long as your head unit produces at least 18 wrms or there abouts. Always check what the minimum power rating required to run a speaker is, not just the maximum.
I am very happy with my system, and would like to thank Rob (XLR8) for his help with the install. Thanks Mate!!!!
Nipper...
Woooohooo !!!! Nipper.... With a system like that, Id never leave the car !!!!
What about the bar fridge, fax machine, and microwave oven !!!!
Hehehehe...
Mine is no where near that sophisticated, but anyway here it is.
Clarion CVX-6451 In Dash TV set - $600 Au (Imported from Japan)
Sony XR-C7200 - Cassette Deck and 10 Stack CD $800 together.
Sony Playstation II - $650
240 Volt, 80Watt Inverter - $60
1 x 100Litre Box, Selaed 18mm MDF, and carpeted with
Box mounted 400W RMS 4 Channel Audiogods amp - $400
2x Response 12" 250Watt RMS Dual VC Carbon Fibre subs - $420 (pair)
2 Low Pass 12Db passive octave crossovers, <400Hz
(Box tuned for 22Hz, Unknown Max SPL) - Box is only used for drifts..and is not left in the car because of weight, and Boom Boom
Rear parcel tray has
1 x 10" 160W RMS Carbon Fibre Response Sub - $120
2 x 6.5" 80W RMS Carbon Fibre Response Woofer $110 (Pair)
2 x Response Ferro Fluid Tweeters 40W RMS - $32 (pair)
2 x Audio Gods Tweeters (>22K top end supplement) $20 (pair)
1 x Standard Ford amp (Free with premium sound system)
18mm MDF wood, covered in standard Ford Carpet, and sprayed speaker (non badged) grills, to match interior.
All speakers use 12Db passive crossovers.
Without the Sub, Box, and Audio gods tweeters, Frequency repsonse is 80Hz-28Khz +-3db
With Sub, and Tweeters, the figure is 48Hz-32Khz +- 6db
For the Front-
2 x Response Ferro Fluid Tweeters 40W RMS - $32 (pair) hidden in the crash pad.
Door speakers are standard, but have 12db Band pass crossovers to cut frequencies below 600Hz and above 8KHz
1 Voice activated Motorola Hands free kit, with data cable. (For use with my laptop, which also connects to the Inverter, In Dash TV, and stereo system.
I have bought the stuff over the years, from sales, specials and the like, to keep costs down. (The TV was the biggest bargain !!!)
The speakers, Deck, and Stacker are now 5 years old, and still going strong. Im also an Electrical Engineer, and did Audio Engineering as a side hobby, meaning I designed the box, Crossovers, and fitted all components in the vehicle.
The system so far has cost me about $3200 all up, and I can watch DVD's, play DTS audio, playstaion 1 and 2 games, CD's, tapes, and Radio.
What about the bar fridge, fax machine, and microwave oven !!!!
Hehehehe...
Mine is no where near that sophisticated, but anyway here it is.
Clarion CVX-6451 In Dash TV set - $600 Au (Imported from Japan)
Sony XR-C7200 - Cassette Deck and 10 Stack CD $800 together.
Sony Playstation II - $650
240 Volt, 80Watt Inverter - $60
1 x 100Litre Box, Selaed 18mm MDF, and carpeted with
Box mounted 400W RMS 4 Channel Audiogods amp - $400
2x Response 12" 250Watt RMS Dual VC Carbon Fibre subs - $420 (pair)
2 Low Pass 12Db passive octave crossovers, <400Hz
(Box tuned for 22Hz, Unknown Max SPL) - Box is only used for drifts..and is not left in the car because of weight, and Boom Boom
Rear parcel tray has
1 x 10" 160W RMS Carbon Fibre Response Sub - $120
2 x 6.5" 80W RMS Carbon Fibre Response Woofer $110 (Pair)
2 x Response Ferro Fluid Tweeters 40W RMS - $32 (pair)
2 x Audio Gods Tweeters (>22K top end supplement) $20 (pair)
1 x Standard Ford amp (Free with premium sound system)
18mm MDF wood, covered in standard Ford Carpet, and sprayed speaker (non badged) grills, to match interior.
All speakers use 12Db passive crossovers.
Without the Sub, Box, and Audio gods tweeters, Frequency repsonse is 80Hz-28Khz +-3db
With Sub, and Tweeters, the figure is 48Hz-32Khz +- 6db
For the Front-
2 x Response Ferro Fluid Tweeters 40W RMS - $32 (pair) hidden in the crash pad.
Door speakers are standard, but have 12db Band pass crossovers to cut frequencies below 600Hz and above 8KHz
1 Voice activated Motorola Hands free kit, with data cable. (For use with my laptop, which also connects to the Inverter, In Dash TV, and stereo system.
I have bought the stuff over the years, from sales, specials and the like, to keep costs down. (The TV was the biggest bargain !!!)
The speakers, Deck, and Stacker are now 5 years old, and still going strong. Im also an Electrical Engineer, and did Audio Engineering as a side hobby, meaning I designed the box, Crossovers, and fitted all components in the vehicle.
The system so far has cost me about $3200 all up, and I can watch DVD's, play DTS audio, playstaion 1 and 2 games, CD's, tapes, and Radio.
Unfortunately, With the EF, there were no wheel mounted controls, so It was very easy to intergrate !!!!!
Also, a word of advice about buying Decks, If you are going to buy a deck, think of the future, and get one that can intergrate with other devices, I.E. Just like Nippers !!!!!
My Sony and Clarion are cheap [email protected]$%rds, and dont like talking to each other. In hindsight, If I knew I was going to go this far, I would have invested in a much better Deck from the begining, rather than buying a medium range model, only to realise that it doesnt connect to anything, and that it needs to be upgraded !!!
(I.E. The money I spent on my sony was not well spent !!!)
Also, the Ford amp that I am using is only a class AB amp, IE too much transistor bias crossover distortion at low volumes.
The box is too DUFF DUFF, and becomes too anyoying after a while. (That is why the free air sub on the parcel tray, its only there to enforce the bass a little at low frequencies).
Apart from that, I am very happy with what I am running at the moment.
Also, a word of advice about buying Decks, If you are going to buy a deck, think of the future, and get one that can intergrate with other devices, I.E. Just like Nippers !!!!!
My Sony and Clarion are cheap [email protected]$%rds, and dont like talking to each other. In hindsight, If I knew I was going to go this far, I would have invested in a much better Deck from the begining, rather than buying a medium range model, only to realise that it doesnt connect to anything, and that it needs to be upgraded !!!
(I.E. The money I spent on my sony was not well spent !!!)
Also, the Ford amp that I am using is only a class AB amp, IE too much transistor bias crossover distortion at low volumes.
The box is too DUFF DUFF, and becomes too anyoying after a while. (That is why the free air sub on the parcel tray, its only there to enforce the bass a little at low frequencies).
Apart from that, I am very happy with what I am running at the moment.
RE TV: My Girlfriend wouldnt go out with me on certain nights because Buffy was on. I soon got the [email protected]$#% with such a poor excuse, that I got the TV.
Nah... I really got it because when I bought the car, I had the sony deck and stacker lying around, and the original system in the Ghia was the premium Deck. (I.E. Double DIN).
So I needed an extra deck to fill in the hole, and was looking at getting a Sony DSP Proccessor at the time (about $1000), when I came across the Clarion TV. Basically the price was right, and I bought it...
Ive got to admit though, most of the passengers don't like it on while Im driving, because THEY get too distracted. (I dont get this excuse personally ????)
The playstation was worse, I actually had one person playing it, and physically got sick from the motion and concentrating on game. - So 90% of the time, the TV is off. (Reception is also not the greatest whilst driving around).
As for the Jaycar speakers, the small stuff (I.E. 6.5 inchs and Tweeters, are fantastic). Everyone whom has heard them, have all bought exactly the same speakers. (11 cars at last count).
They will run happily on about 10W RMS, (IE a good deck), but can handle a fair bit more if amped. Only thing is that you need to build the crossover yourself, to get these things running perfect - IE no crossover included !!!!!)
As for the Jaycar subs....... They are a good compromise on Price/Quality. If you want SPL, and to win sound off's, you will never acheive it with Jaycar Re/Sponse. But mind you, the subs I would consider replacing the Jaycar ones start at about 3x the Price, so I dont think I will be replacing them for quite some time.
Nah... I really got it because when I bought the car, I had the sony deck and stacker lying around, and the original system in the Ghia was the premium Deck. (I.E. Double DIN).
So I needed an extra deck to fill in the hole, and was looking at getting a Sony DSP Proccessor at the time (about $1000), when I came across the Clarion TV. Basically the price was right, and I bought it...
Ive got to admit though, most of the passengers don't like it on while Im driving, because THEY get too distracted. (I dont get this excuse personally ????)
The playstation was worse, I actually had one person playing it, and physically got sick from the motion and concentrating on game. - So 90% of the time, the TV is off. (Reception is also not the greatest whilst driving around).
As for the Jaycar speakers, the small stuff (I.E. 6.5 inchs and Tweeters, are fantastic). Everyone whom has heard them, have all bought exactly the same speakers. (11 cars at last count).
They will run happily on about 10W RMS, (IE a good deck), but can handle a fair bit more if amped. Only thing is that you need to build the crossover yourself, to get these things running perfect - IE no crossover included !!!!!)
As for the Jaycar subs....... They are a good compromise on Price/Quality. If you want SPL, and to win sound off's, you will never acheive it with Jaycar Re/Sponse. But mind you, the subs I would consider replacing the Jaycar ones start at about 3x the Price, so I dont think I will be replacing them for quite some time.
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