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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

as you can tell from the title this is about swapping the 4.1 in the XB i just bought. Now although the current engine is the 240k original, I'm completely unimpressed and sometimes concerned with the very sluggish power.
I guess this is after having a Gen3 VX Calais work car, but the lack of response in not my cup of tea.
Now I'm going to swap this engine for the 351c/c4/2.75lsd from my Zf rally car. Now in the fairlane this eninge was very fun, being about 10000kms old, less on c4 and diff.

If you guys can give me any pointers, things to watch out for or pay heed to. I know how to go about it and I'm not mechanically challenge, and I believe that I'll get the whole thing done over a weekend, but I want to make sure that it goes smoothly and I know a lot of you have faced probs and can help me avoid them!

Thanks,

Simon
 

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Two SC 61's = trouble
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6,360 Posts
Should bolt right in with the parts you have.Depending what the parts came from If Fairlane the driveshaft may need to be shortened...The brackets for engine mounts need to be changed over to bolt on xmember...Hope you have power steering in XB...
 

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###AND EDGT DRIVER###
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713 Posts
yep what he wrote and you orginal tail shaft should fit from the xb

the cost of fiting or swapping may have to get some quotes from your loc machanic.

or rent a engine crane and some cartons of beer and invite some freinds around should take a day with drinking brakes.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm thanking god that the fairlane has power steering and that I WILL swap it over. I've never driven anything as hard to turn.

I'm going to do the transfer myself, I can get hold of a hoist and with a few mates we should have it in a day or so.

So the 6 cylinder tailshaft will be strong enough ie there's no difference between 6 and 8 tailshafts?

Cool if it is, less parts to find.

What I'll be doing is pulling the six with g/box attached, removing power steering and base engine mounts.
Then pull the eight with g/box attached, change over steering, change engine mounts and slide the 8 in.
Finally put the six in the fairlane and then swap the diffs around.

Oh yeah, the fairlane has a 2.5 twin system, will I be able to swap this over? Obviously it'll stick out further and need to be cut, but will the pipes exit in the right place? I know that I have to get a twin system rear stone shield but need to know whether I'm up for a new exhaust.
 

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BSR Twin System (tm)
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4,751 Posts
siwren said:
I'm thanking god that the fairlane has power steering and that I WILL swap it over. I've never driven anything as hard to turn.

I'm going to do the transfer myself, I can get hold of a hoist and with a few mates we should have it in a day or so.

So the 6 cylinder tailshaft will be strong enough ie there's no difference between 6 and 8 tailshafts?

Cool if it is, less parts to find.

What I'll be doing is pulling the six with g/box attached, removing power steering and base engine mounts.
Then pull the eight with g/box attached, change over steering, change engine mounts and slide the 8 in.
Finally put the six in the fairlane and then swap the diffs around.

Oh yeah, the fairlane has a 2.5 twin system, will I be able to swap this over? Obviously it'll stick out further and need to be cut, but will the pipes exit in the right place? I know that I have to get a twin system rear stone shield but need to know whether I'm up for a new exhaust.
The steering shouldn't be too heavy (especially if it has the standard 20:1 Steering Box).

It would probably be best to get a decent V8 Tailshaft and while you have the thing out, replace the Uni Joints just to be sure.

The Exhaust System can be changed over, but it will need to be shortened after the Mufflers before it goes over the Diff. If the Fairlane needed a twin 2 1/2" System, it must have a pretty healthy Engine.

Hope this helps.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thats an excellent point, my brain told me that it was just the boot that was longer but the wheelbase is longer.
How do I go about shortened the exhaust pipes myself?
Or do I just leave it at the mufflers and take it to a exhaust shop?
 

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BSR Twin System (tm)
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4,751 Posts
Exhaust Shop would be your best bet.
 

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Registered
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119 Posts
If the twin system has a H or X pipe fitted, cut the exhaust a few inches from the mufflers (on the side your getting shortened) and get an exhaust shop to weld a set of flanges on. This way if you ever need to remove the tranny or driveshaft you can unbolt and remove the exhaust easily.
 

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###AND EDGT DRIVER###
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713 Posts
i had a 6cyl tail shaft on the xd for many years behind a manual never had a problem so should be fine behind yours if its a bw 277 that will be the weak link.

hopefully the fairlane diff might have the 28 spline axles the stock 6 should have 25spline.

the exhaust should only need shorting by 3inch`s so should find somewhere to shorten.
 

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socially irresponsible
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1,194 Posts
don't forget the radiator. if your fairlane has 9 inch you'll have to change unis to fit tailshaft. front springs too, the ol' clevo weighs a lot more than a six. if your running extractors put them in before you bolt the engine to the mounts that way you can put them in from the top instead of laying on your back. pretty easy swap. enjoy the result.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The diff from the fairlane is a disc braked 2.75 from a 351 XD/XE and stood up well with the big drifting powerslides.
I'll be swapping the radiator too, the sixes one is tiny.
And the springs as well, I already asked about that in another area.

Nak, the car is currently using standard exhaust manifolds and I was planning attach the hoist straps to em and yank the engine out (is this an okay thing to do with the gearbox attached), but I want to run extractors asap, do you mean put the extractors on before I put the engine in or do you mean seat the engine, put the extractors on and then bolt up the engine?

Does any one have a set of clevo extractors not wanted anymore, preferrably with 2.5 collectors??
 

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socially irresponsible
Joined
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1,194 Posts
siwren, it'll be easier putting extractors on while the engine is hanging about 2 inches above the mounts so if you can, get your extractors first. i use a chain about 3 foot long diagonally from head to head with a hydrualic engine crane on wheels. the original exhuast "logs" will be fine. oh yeah, drain as much fluid out of the tranny as you can and tie a heavy duty bag over your output shaft to stop fluid going everywhere.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Nak, what to you mean exactly by the 'logs'? Do you mean the factory thingies bolted to the exhaust that they used to install the engine with originally?
Say for example that they don't exist on this 351 from the fairlane is it safe to just put the straps or chain around and under the exhaust manifold? does this give me enough movement with the engine/gearbox to remove and reposition it?
Also, if i do attach the chain/strap to the exhaust manifold at say at cylinder 1 and 8 or 4 and 5, can it take the weight of the engine & geabox without shearing bolts or snapping the manifolds?

The reason I ask this is that I've replaced and engine before but without the gearbox attached, that and the fact it was only a 6 and not the weight I'll be dealing with this time.

Thanks

Simon
 

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socially irresponsible
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1,194 Posts
he he yeah i call exhaust manifolds "logs". they flow about as well too lol. okay i take it you have stripped all the accessories off the front of the engine? use the top bolt hole in the pass side head and the one diagonally opposite on the drivers side head. tight there cause of the fire wall. using this method you will have to have two grabs at the chain. first grab is to get the engine forwardas far as possible, the second one is so you can tilt the engine tranny combo so you can clear the radiator support panel. bear in mind you have to lift all of this about 4-5 feet, make sure your engine crane is a good one.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Nak, makes sense. I was going the support the engine with the hoist and then jack the back of the car up as high as I can so that the angle required to clear everything is a whole lot less.
I haven't actually started the engine swap yet, but I'll do it in about two weekends time and then a week after that I'll take it to get the car resprayed.

In short: I'll drop the exhaust, remove accessories (power steering and alternator, fan and such), remove radiator, use a jack to just support the gearbox without any upwards pressure, undo the gearbox bolts, undo rear uni joint and remove tailshaft, then attach engine to hoist, undo the engine mounts, lift engine slightlyand move forward, raise the rear of the car and then manover the engine out of the engine bay and then do the reverse in the other car.

Have I missed anything?

Simon
 

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socially irresponsible
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1,194 Posts
easier if you can get the engine crane to move. no need to jack the back of the car up if you lift the engine high enough it will clear if one of your mates lifts the back of the tranny up and over the rad panel. i think you may have to pull the starter motor as well to clear the steering box.
you will paint the engine bay while it's out?........a lot easier and looks nice when it's all back together.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I'll be swapping the power steering as well so hopefully I won't need remove the starter motor, maybe I can sort of juggle around it.
I'll most definately give the engine bay a big clean, but the only way I'll be able to paint it is with spray cans and try to match the colour. Not sure how that'll turn out.
thought I might degrease the engine and give it a quick blast of ford blue.
That and maybe swap the sump for a bigger one cause I thinking big in the future.
What would a good aftermarket sump cost, and if I can't afford or find one before I swap the engine over, how hard is it to change it later? Do I have to lift the engine?
 

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socially irresponsible
Joined
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1,194 Posts
if you can, try and do all this before you drop it back in. easier in the end. to change sumps later you will have to lift it to clear your cross member. like i said a big hassle later on. living in sydney there are plenty of places to get the sump or get a magazine that will have prices eg. sydney perf warehouse. but you may have to exchange. you can get pressure spray cans already in the colour you need from somewhere like autobahn.
 

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XB Pilot
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Sweet, this'll look damn fine once I'm finished. Clean engine, clean bay, get new roker covers and air cleaner, spray accessories in silver. Better take some before and after shots.

With the oil pickup in the sump, does this need to be changed for the new sump? Or does it need to be bent lower or something?
Will the new pan be deeper or wider? Or both?
 

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socially irresponsible
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1,194 Posts
oil pickup will be the same. pans are widened and slightly deeper, a good one will have a splash guard and crank scraper. use a good gasket sealant like loctite or cat red on everything except your rocker cover gaskets. i've got cork ones so i just use a thin layer of grease.
siwren, try and do as much of this work as you can before putting it back in. it is a lot easier. by the way i like your choice in the xb, mines a 1974 red pepper gt.
 
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