Ford Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thermo Conversion Underway... (Now Complete)

Well today a bit the bullet and finally got started on the conversion.

Some background. A couple of weeks ago Tibbo came round for a brew and we were checking out our cars and he was all like "shit dude havent u done thermos yet" and I'm all like "umm, no". To wich Tibbo replies "No worries I'll hook you up with some fans". So one to I return home from work to find two shrouds with 4 fans (1 complete shroud and 3 fans). So me hooks up two fans to the complete shroud and give em a whirl and success only one fan has a crack which was later discovered and was replaced and retested.

So today I bit the bullet a bit and cheated somewhat and bought a davies craig thermoswitch kit and installed this in a most discrete place possible between the airbox bottom and the headlight assembly. All wiring points and adjustable part of the switch is all within easy access.

I then went to remove the fan and shroud only to realise that I didnt have a big enough spanner to remove the poxy clutch fan lol
. At this point I just moved onto wiring parts of the loom and figuring out where I need to join cables to etc. Basically all that needs doing is to buy 3 relays (spst i think) and wire it all up, oh and get me a big man spanner.


Rollin did you say that you should tap into the blue wire going to the A/C?
Also does anyone know where to get more of these little wire taps called Scotchlocks by 3m? they are cool. ;)
 

·
Hanging Around
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
Yeah, the thermo fan conversion is good if done properly,
but using scotch locks is not "properly" :)

The scotch locks have to be the most unreliable way to connect stuff,
Take the time to solder all connections and with thermo fans, dont use fuses, but use fusible links. Pay the extra for them and take the time, and it will save you a motor in the long run. Also ensure all relays are capable of 40 amps, most bosch ones are 30's.

Depending on how your switch works, if it switches the + side, then you can use a diode in series with the a/c wire, if the switch switches the earth, then you will need a seperate relay.

I have controllers that piggy back off the temp gauge sender and also have an additional input for the A/C. They are electronic, and therefore very accurate and you dont need to have dodgey probes in the top hose or drill and tap the thermo housing. (but you already have yours installed....)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
mmm i wasnt sure on the scotchlocks but looked handy if the workable area was tiny. For the relays I was looking at some ones from jaycar that were 30 amp but could handle periods of 40 amps. I have the wiring diagrams for a setup that will use both when the thermoswitch is activated and 1 fan when the A/C is engaged and it suggests 3 relays so I assume it switches positive.

Dang that controller you have sounds mighty good did you make them or are they a similer unit to the davies craig jobs coz there was an electronic switch and mechanical unit available.
 

·
Hanging Around
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
I make up the controllers, i havent seen the davies craig electronic ones, but they are probably similar.

When the A/C is on, run both fans.
I initially had problems running only one - the a/c compressor would lock up, because the condenser was too hot and the compressor couldnt push any more pressure,
(thats basically why my controllers have only one output which controls both fans, either by temp or a/c - its not worth overheating things, It can cost you a lot of money if the condensor splits or you overheat the engine)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I was planning on making them both come on at temp and have just the 1 for the air con. Do you think that would be sufficiant or do you think I should make both come for both A/C and Temp.
 

·
Birth, Drift, Death...
Joined
·
3,039 Posts
first thing - scotch locks are EVIL ok?

second thing - the colour of the wire you need to tap into depends on where you are mounting your relays - if its right near the AC compressor, then its the blue one that goes straight to it.

if you are going to stuff them under the coolant tank like i have, the wire is green with a yellow trace - check out my website (link in sig) i have a pic up there that is a shot of my engine bay with some arrows and writing and stuff that should/might help you with your wiring.

also check THIS THREAD for more info if you like.

9psi EB - your ac compressor should not have locked - ac systems have a high and a low pressure switch (on the I6 its located just before/is part of the TX valve, which is up near the firewall on the passenger side) maybe it was defective?

i only have my passenger side fan on when ac is on, and i have a two stage temp switch. first stage is drivers side fan (to try and remove hot air around extractors from engine bay) and the second stage is for both fans to come on.

obviously, if i have the ac on and the temp gets up a little bit (like, the 'O' in normal) the other fan comes on too.

never had an ac compressor problem...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Rollin said:
first thing - scotch locks are EVIL ok?
Roger that Captain, if two ppl reakon they are bodge I shall avoid them alltogether.

The relays shall be monted near the airbox so I will go straight into the blue A/C wire me thinks.
 

·
Hanging Around
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
9psi EB - your ac compressor should not have locked - ac systems have a high and a low pressure switch (on the I6 its located just before/is part of the TX valve, which is up near the firewall on the passenger side) maybe it was defective?
Yeah, quite possible, but it goes to prove that it can happen....
The compressor was fine for 3-5 mins then it would just slowly get tighter and tighter and lock up, causing the clutch to slip (the mag clutch on the comp) This only happened when stationary though.
It was getting that hot that you couldnt keep your hand on the condenser.
The local air-con man that we go to said its a common fault with thermo fans not working correctly - so it must happen on the odd occasion for him to pinpoint the issue immediately (i initially overlooked this and thought it was just my comp. on the way out)

Personally, if it were my car (well, it was) or a mates car, I would wire it up so both fans come on together. Also this protects against fan, or fusible link, or relay failure.
Ensure you run one fusible link per fan, 1.0mm fusible link, and around 10 -15 cm is sufficient. I originally had blade fuses for each fan, but these had a tendency to melt quite consistently. (they were initially 30A each, then I also tried 2x20A parallel per fan)

The fans on my car only ever come on when stopped in traffic, 50 + km/h and the cooling is sufficient without fans, but its entirely up to you.
Me personally, I like to do things once, and know its not going to fail or cause problems later on, but people can have their own opinions - its entirely up to you on how you want yours to run.

My fans come on between the O and R on the gauge (EBII)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input guys, 9psi EB where did you get your fusable links from, did you just source them from Ford or somewhere, Jaycar doesnt seem to stock any, I was planning on using some chunky inline fuses 30 or 40 amp one for each fan.
 

·
Hanging Around
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
I got mine from Marlows at the time, but most places like repco, auto one etc have them available, just ask around, if at worst, any auto elect can help you.

Give the fuses a miss, seriously,
They run way too hot with a constant 20+ amp running through them, like i said, i melted heaps of blade ones, glass ones are not much better, cause the actualy fuse material will get hot and expand, and flex, then it gets weaker everytime it heats up / cools down until it fails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks 9psi EB again for some more valuable information. Marlows doesnt exist over this way but hopefully Repco can help me, Supercheap can be a bit weak in parts sometimes.


6pAc.
 
Joined
·
1,675 Posts
Ill throw in my 2c here, since ive had these for a long long time.. youll see a shot of my car with the thermos installed in the very first eafalcon.com melbourne meet :p

I have one 40A glass fuse per fan and havent blown one yet. Mine are right next to the extractors too.

I use one of those craig davies style mechanical switches, because i havent made an electronic one yet - and havent needed to. The ones around are all WAY too expensive - some people are asking $100 for a device thats lucky to have $5 in parts in it. Crock of shit. If i find one for $30-$40 i might buy it. Same goes with the wiring looms available - theyre all VERY expensive. a bit of DIY will save you some serious money.

I have one fan come on with the thermoswitch (the high speed one), and the low speed one come on with the aircon. Ive driven on 40+deg days, with and without the aircon, in stop/start city traffic for hours, and never had a single problem. ive had thermos on my EA for over 4 years. its also an automatic, so the radiator is doing more work.

Anyone who says youll have cooling problems with thermos is full of it!

Jase
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I dont think anyone has said thermos dont work, I think what 9psi EB was getting at was not to let the air con condenser get to hot as it could seize the compresser. My impression of everyones thermo conversions so far seems very successful.
 

·
Birth, Drift, Death...
Joined
·
3,039 Posts
yeah they bloody rock :D

and the engine is sooo sooo quiet without that lumping great clutch fan thrashing away...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Rollin, its all getting along slowly with christmas and all im just slowly plodding along for now so when it comes to it I should just have to plonk in the fans and connect them, it just takes time.

6pAc
 

·
known as tibbo
Joined
·
2,033 Posts
You finished yet?

I would have some fuseable links @ work if your still hunting for them..But then i'd probably use an engine management fuse for the fans like the EF's do...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Na not finished yet, I got the probe in, and started wiring the loom. Stupid work leaves me so little time.
 

·
Falcon 2.. Ferrari 0 hehe
Joined
·
1,290 Posts
ahhh... thermo's on the xe are simple

when the car is switched in the "on" position, both thermo's come on, when it is in acc, or off, the thermos turn off!
wired with a 30 amp fuse, i had my clevo die on my due to a faulty temp guage, and not enough cooling, not happeningto mums car
my 2 cents worth ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
HAHAHA it's all done, thanks to tibbo for the info on where to splice in for an ignition source not on the ECU, the car revs so much more freely now, also the single clutch fan ways the same if not more than both the thermos and the shroud together, go figure. I haven't been for a spin yet as i'm waiting for peak traffic to die off a bit first. Here is hoping for a few more free ponies. Pics to come if ppl want them.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top