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Discussion Starter #1
What brand, style and temp rating of thermostat is everyone running ? I've been searching and the original ones from ford are no longer available, tridon have a std unit and a high flow unit, that look like a regular design and different temp ratings available. Then in dayco the unit for the cleveland is a high flow unit, is available only in a 82c, but is a fully enclosed unit with the opening section being enclosed within a shroud.
 

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I use an 82 degree thermostat, it makes the gauge run right in the middle. The standard one is an 88 degrees which I also have, I think only Motorcraft make them because I tried to buy one and was told they only come in 91. I have a 71 as well which I had in my car for about a week, which one were you after??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, I'm not chasing one, I'm just wondering what thermostats people have been using and and with what degree of reliability they have had. Are the high flow better ? Are the enclosed units better ? What temp ratings have people found to be better for std or mild or wild clevelands
 

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I don't run a thermostat and haven't for 15 years , I knocked the centre out of a thermostat and finish up with just the centre hole ( ABOUT 1" DIA ) this acts as a restrictor and is fine .
Runs just under 160* in winter and around 180* in summer and no risk of a jammed thermo. destroying an engine .
A $15 thermostat can ruin an expensive engine . Anyone living in QLD , and running a carburetor engine doesn't need to run a thermo , I know I will get some critisism , but it works .
Try it , you can even vary the exercise and make up some restricors out of sheet metal with different size holes .

Cheers .
 

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Hello 01fm.
I tried several types of thermostats without a great deal of success at reducing overheating at idle. The actual thermostat for a Clevo is a bypass thermostat with a little hat crimped on underneath. Tried a bypass thermostat made by Tridon-still have it lying around in the garage-designed for the Clevo. Did not handle increased pressure from a high flow waterpump installed at the same time.
Currently have a Robertshaw 180 F Cleveland thermostat installed. These were the original thermostats put in the Clevelands at the factory and offered in 180 F and 192 F. If you get your hands on an old Gregory's repair manual you can see the Robertshaw thermostat. Heavy, well made thermostat that has high flow and is not bothered by increased pressure. Imported several Robertshaws with my Flowkooler waterpump earlier this year. It has been the best thermostat I have used by far.
Cheers
Craig
 

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460BBXW said:
I don't run a thermostat and haven't for 15 years , I knocked the centre out of a thermostat and finish up with just the centre hole ( ABOUT 1" DIA ) this acts as a restrictor and is fine .
Runs just under 160* in winter and around 180* in summer and no risk of a jammed thermo. destroying an engine .
A $15 thermostat can ruin an expensive engine . Anyone living in QLD , and running a carburetor engine doesn't need to run a thermo , I know I will get some critisism , but it works .
Try it , you can even vary the exercise and make up some restricors out of sheet metal with different size holes .

Cheers .
I spent several years running no thermostat, but got sick of it taking so long for my motor to warm up, and i live in Cairns. Also, after i stripped my motor that only did about 20000 km, it had a decent lip on the top of all the bores.
My last motor with the thermostat still had all the hone marks after 20000 km.
I have had no luck with the Tridon high flow 180deg thermostat and it ran way too hot. I ended up using some cheap shitty brand(non high flow) 160 deg and all works perfectly. I ran my brand new motor/cam in for 30 minutes at 2500 rpm last weekend and it didnt get over 190 deg, but i do have a good rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Guys, Just one of my main concerns with the thermostat issue is looking into the block you see a restrictor/bypass plate pressed in. Now according to everything I've read when the thermostat is closed water is able to flow within the engine via through this plate. When the engine comes up to temperature and the thermostat opens, this plate is then closed off and the flow of water then travels through the radiator. With no thermostat and no proper bypass blockoff on the bottom of the thermostat a percentage of the water is unable to go through the radiator, and there for stays within the block, hence higher running temp.
 

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V8 GT pilot
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Fellas

This may or may not be of any consequence but xdc351 and I were discussing thermostats a while back. It was mentioned that many a Clevo owner may actually be running Windsor style thermostats ????

The Clevo ones have a slight "lip" on the flat surface that sits on the block. This lip is what creates a seal and prevents the water from recycling back into the block where it should actually flow into the rad. I'm not sure of the "truth" of this but I guess it makes sense.

The mistake that some people make is that they ask for a thermostat for a 351 - 302 falcon and sometimes end up with a Windsor type unit. These units are different and don't seal the same which "may" cause some clevos to overheat despite all the best attempts by the owner.

Maybe someone else can comment on the validity of this ?????
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got a dayco unit ( Part No: DT66A) in today at work and on the base of the plunger is a small extra lip, this is what is obviously designed to seal the bypass plate. None of the others that we sell have this extra piece on them. Looks like I'll be putting these into stock for clevelands from now on. The only thing being is that they only come as a 82c.
 

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ESP, I don't know WTF I was on that night.... its the other side of the thermostat thats different.... WAY different. I just pulled the old thermostat from the engine and compared to the cleveland one its clear the clevo ones are a special breed.

The base is at least 10mm wider but strangely enough its actually shorter. The spring is also wound much tighter and the opening in the thermostat is 2-3mm wider as well. the brass sliding pin is larger in diamiter. Time will tell but I still believe buying the wrong thermostat is 10x worse than running none at all. My overheating problems only began after I installed the previous 'stat.
 

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351 XE on LPG
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Some useful info . . .

"Use a Cleveland specific thermostat. They have a shoulder which is sized
to match the brass restrictor ring in the block (make sure it's there) which
other thermostats do not have. Using a Windsor thermostat (which the parts
counter monkeys will give you half the time) will lead to overheating because
coolant will bypass the radiator. Don't run an excessively cool thermostat.
It won't make a difference in steady state temperature but will slow warm-up
time. I recommend the Robert Shaw 351C thermostat. It's quick acting and
has bleed provisions."
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/351Ctips.html

"Another cooling problem is the bypass port under the thermostat. Many people use the wrong thermostat in the Cleveland engine. The correct thermostat will have a "HAT" on the brass bulb that when opened will block the bypass hole in the block. Using the wrong thermostat will cause fast overheating."
http://members.aol.com/A74Pantera/problems.htm

“Robertshaw makes a high-flow brass Cleveland thermostat that is available locally in Houston at Autozone. It's not obvious looking at it that it's for a Cleveland as it doesn't have the traditional 'hat'. But when heated the entire base of the thermostat moves down and blocks the warm-up passage hole (you can watch it work in a pan of boiling water). If you can't find them locally, Stewart Components sells the same thermostat online but with three extra small holes (supposedly to allow the thermostat to open easier at high rpm) on-line at www.stewartcomponents.com. I think they're around $10 each from S- C or $5 at Autozone.”
http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2003-April/026934.html

“The robertshaw unit has that big fat 1.50 " dia reverse cup that sits down over the bypass oriface when it opens. Also it has a larger flow cross section (out the top) for less restriction and more flow. It's looks almost as if the guys at ford DESIGNED the cooling system with the old style robertshaw thermostat in mind. The 185 degree robertshaw "cleveland" unit does have a little 5/8" hat on the "bulb", but is dwarfed by the 1.50 inch reverse cup that opens down over the bypass transition plate in the block.”
http://realbig.com/detomaso/1999-08/40.html

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=cache:00_wClabIHcJ:www.stewartcomponents.com/html/forum/viewPost.asp?m_id=1172+Robertshaw+thermostat+351c&hl=en&lr=lang_en
 

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Thanks for posting some of those threads Rhett. I came across those same threads when researching the original thermostat for the Cleveland earlier this year.
The other problem is that some engine rebuilders discard the restrictor plate. This means using a bypass thermostat will not help prevent coolant recirculation through the block. Getting your hands on another restrictor plate? Almost impossible. So thats another tip: check to see if you have the restrictor plate still in place.
I believe in the States some enthusiasts, finding they have no restrictor plate, would use a freeze plug to block the orifice and then could run Windsor-type thermostats without the problem of coolant recirculation.
I cannot see why it should not be possible to import the correct Robertshaw thermostats from the States. A lot of autoparts places do mail order.
Cheers
Craig
 

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351 XE on LPG
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I'll have a look around Perth for one. I'm sure I've seen one in a shop before and thought to myself how weird it looked, never thinking that I'd be looking for one of them one day.
 

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Finally
A good thread with some useful info from some top blokes.

Well done chaps......................now to try and track down these RS thermostats.
 

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Hmmmm... So whoever it was that advised me to remove the brass plate beneath the thermostat was full of $H!T.
What would the effect be of removing this plate? Increased circulation of hot water withinn the block?
Anyone know where you could get a new bypass plate?
Regds,
Tote
 

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Well I just ran my cam in and aside from the cam running in very nicely the temp never even got close to 1/2 after 12 minutes at 2000-3000 RPM. The new trident thermostat (part number 2023-180) and the AU thermofans worked so well I was amazed. Before I would have been closer to 3/4 temp at least!!!

Proof enough for me the wrong thermostat is a disaster waiting to happen.
 

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PHAT COUPES
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01fm said:
I got a dayco unit ( Part No: DT66A) in today at work and on the base of the plunger is a small extra lip, this is what is obviously designed to seal the bypass plate. None of the others that we sell have this extra piece on them. Looks like I'll be putting these into stock for clevelands from now on. The only thing being is that they only come as a 82c.
I have a tridon thermostat part number TT2023-180 and that has a 2-3mm lip
on it . It is meant to be a high flow for 351clev. Just a question what other brands do you have if they don't have this lip on them or am I just looking at the wrong thing .My last clevland ran hot all the time no matter what I did . I think heating problems are a bit more than thermostats .I think my timing was out because I tried everything else
 
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