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Well bugger me.........I have a brand new Robertshaw 333-180 sitting in my box of spare parts! I'll fit it today and let you know how it goes.

Currently have a standard clevo thermostat - can see it opening @ ~175, but then it stablises on ~188-190F (88C). You can see them open with a rapid temp rise (~10*) - nice autometer mechanical gauge. Fitted a BIG F-100 aluminium radiator on the weekend, but temp is the same, perhaps new thermostat will work better in holding 180.

The XD gauges can get a bit random in their readings. My old one would behave with a big hit on the dash.
 

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V8 GT pilot
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silicon said:
(can't have the engine running overly cold in Winter time.)


A thermostat keeps the motor at the designated temperature utilising the radiator, ie no need to change.

I still can't believe I have never ran a correct thermostat. I have dismantled a lot of clevelands and I have never seen a thermostat unlike the common type.

Technically you're correct, but the Tridon unit I have fitted does not behave like this. It can open and close way before or after the actual stated temperature. It also fluctuates like a Mother F****R.

It runs hot and then it opens and the temp goes really cool and so on and so forth. In summer in HOT conditions it just progressively gets hotter and hotter. It never overheats its just that the temp is NEVER stable.

I hope the new RS stat goes some way to addressing this. I guess the balanced design should theoretically correct this issue.

Picking mine up today and will fit it up this afternoon. Will see how it goes over the next few days.
 

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Well the RS 333-180 is in and working OK. Was running at 190 before and now stabilises around 185. So, a little better. I put the cooler temp down to the better flow capabilty of the RS. The stock thermostat really is narrow.

Next upgrade is to run an efficient water pump. Weiand and Milodon make a nice aluminium pump that flows 30% more than standard cast iron pumps.
 

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TruBlu351 said:
Next upgrade is to run an efficient water pump. Weiand and Milodon make a nice aluminium pump that flows 30% more than standard cast iron pumps.

You could also try the locally modified ECOTRANS waterpumps. These are the anticavitation style pumps with the modified bronze impellers. They also have the aluminium housing. The flow better and have a far greater tendency to cavitate which will also aid the balancing effect of the RS thermostat.

I have one of these pumps on my car and they work well.
 

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ESP said:
You could also try the locally modified ECOTRANS waterpumps. These are the anticavitation style pumps with the modified bronze impellers. They also have the aluminium housing. The flow better and have a far greater tendency to cavitate which will also aid the balancing effect of the RS thermostat.

I have one of these pumps on my car and they work well.
Thanks ESP, I'll check them out.

ps: greater tendancy NOT to cavitate ;)
 

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V8 GT pilot
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TruBlu351 said:
Thanks ESP, I'll check them out.

ps: greater tendancy NOT to cavitate ;)

HaHa

Well caught...................
That's exactly what I meant.........it must be close to 500 post time......I'm getting weary.

If you do a search on these forums under ECOTRANS, you may find the thread about them. From memory, we also posted his contact number.
 

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82XE 351c
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"Consider an ECOtherm coolant system. Basically the system removes the restriction created by closed or partially open thermostat, by shifting the thermostat into the bottom radiator hose and providing a fully external coolant bypass. In addition it doesn't dump cold water from the radiator onto the front cylinders like a traditional system. This avoids cold cylinders, poor combustion and wasted fuel. People are reporting substantial power and fuel economy gains. ECOtrans 23 Webb Rd Airport West, Victoria, Australia 3042 +03 9335 4344"

from
http://www.stangstable.com/engine_specific.htm
 

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How exactly does this thing work if it is in the BOTTOM radiator hose?? Are there any additional hoses needed??
 

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..... the temp is NEVER stable.

I have already noticed my guage is no longer having minor fluctuations as it always has.

It sounds like the tridon unit may be of inferior design compared to the 333.

Quoted temperature for thermostats are the opening temperature only, the fully open state is typically around 10+ degrees more.

Does anyone actually have first hand experience with Ecotherm system?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Well done KIONGA, that is basically what I was advised by Dayco head office. The only real additional thing they said was, that with a series of equal openings rather than one large opening the flow of water is controlled.
 

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82XE 351c
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just ordered a Dayco DT66A thermo for $17 from local auto shop. sounds like this one is the go for clevo's for sure....
 

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this has been interesting reading and jogs my memory from years ago when everyone removed the restrictors to increase flow. So if the restrictors arent available any more would some one have the dimensions so I could make some for my two clevelands.
thanks
 

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I got the last one GT ford performance had in stock, arived today,
Pics below, Dimensions are:
Outside Diameter 46mm
Diameter of hole 19mm
Plate thickness 1mm
Height of lip on outside diameter 2.5mm
Distance From bottom to top 8mm

I reckon if you had to get some of these made up you wouldnt have too much trouble selling them. Might be worth a call to Ford muscle parts in Sydney though, they were next on my shopping list.

Regards,
Tote
 

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thanks for that Tote. I thought about making mw own but the lip could be the problem, might have to ring Bob
 

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I reckon that you could make one fairly easily if you had a lathe and a press. Its just a pressed bit of brass. After looking at a few Mustang sites who are all after them as well , you could probably cover your costs if you pressed out 20 or so and sold em on ebay. I did find one place on a Pantera forum who could supply repro ones but I'm buggered if I can find the link now, sorry.
Regards,
Tote
 

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V8 GT pilot
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OK

The RS stat has been in for 3 days now and there is a slight difference in performance to the old thermostat.

My original unit was actually a High Flow MOTORAD unit and not a TRIDON unit as I mentioned earlier.

The RS unit definitely runs a little cooler when the car is steady on the Freeway.......2 lines cooler on the XE gauge.
I've also noticed that it is slightly more stable when the car is warmed up. The RS unit still fluctuates a little but not as much as the old one.

Overall............this unit seems to perform slightly better than the MOTORAD. It's not a world of difference, but it is better. I also checked to make sure that my block still had the brass restrictor..................NO WORRIES..... ;)
 

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ESP Man
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Put a dayco unit in mine before running it on dyno the other day. Repco here stung me $25 for it. (Repco really does stand for "ripping every poor c%^t off"

I was running a 190 deg thermostat with cast heads and ran below half on the gauge. After installing the alloy heads it running above half so I changed to a 180 deg thermo but this was still running above half on the freeway. It was OK around town or at idle.

I have a 3 core radiator & std water pump.

With the Dayco on the road it is running cooler. My car is still leaning out big time on the dyno and so the gauge was going up well over half with each power run. However, a few minutes at idle and it as back down below half each time.
 

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shaynet said:
Put a dayco unit in mine before running it on dyno the other day. Repco here stung me $25 for it. (Repco really does stand for "ripping every poor c%^t off"

I was running a 190 deg thermostat with cast heads and ran below half on the gauge. After installing the alloy heads it running above half so I changed to a 180 deg thermo but this was still running above half on the freeway. It was OK around town or at idle.

I have a 3 core radiator & std water pump.

With the Dayco on the road it is running cooler. My car is still leaning out big time on the dyno and so the gauge was going up well over half with each power run. However, a few minutes at idle and it as back down below half each time.
Where do you suggest you can get a Dayco unit for less? Repco charged me $20. Ricebarn and Supercheap wouldn't know if their backside was on fire.
 

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4vxc said:
ESP, whats it like idling for long periods with the RS

My car never had an issue when idling so there is not much difference between the RS and the MOTORAD. The 16" and 10" Thermos in combo with the 4 core triple flow look after the car well. My car only starts to get warm ( not overheat ) when cruising on the freeway in hot weather at 110 -120 klmh for over an hour or so. It started to do this ever since the 3.23 rear end and 2300 stally went in. The car is revving at @3000+ RPM for extended periods so I can understand why it does it. I NEVER had any issues with the old standard stally and 2.92 rear end...............Oh well, small price to pay for a hell of a lot more fun !!!!!!!!!

I guess I'll have to wait for the real hot weather to be able to make a more accurate summation on the RS unit. Either way, the RS unit is definitely not going backwards as it has exhibited that it does run cooler at moderate speeds ( 80 - 100 ) on the highway/ freeway for short periods.

In the final analysis though, I've got a High Comp, all IRON Clevo that runs on straight LPG in a full bodied Fairmont Ghia that is driven daily............You're gonna have some temperature issues I guess.
 
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